20 Most Recent 2003 Suzuki GZ 125 Marauder Questions & Answers

As always, correct pressure depends on the tyre fitted but if it is running with the standard tyres that it had fitted from new then:
Single rider: Front is 1.75 bar (25 PSI) Rear 2.0 (29 PSI)
Fully loaded (Panniers and or pillion passenger) Front 2.0 bar (29 PSI) Rear 2.25 bar (32 PSI)

These settings from the book for a 2006 model, though I imagine that they apply to all with very little if any variation

yes heat it up and bang it level.

Have the carb serviced.

Pull the plug, insert a small wooden dowel into the cylindar and rotate until the piston is at top which is indicated by the wood dowel no longer rising, then check the tdc mark.

Have you changed your Exhaust on your Motorcycle? There is a Cable that goes from the Flap. This happened to my GSXR

Maybe- are the diameter of the fork legs the same and are the fork leg measurements the same centre to centre? Its possible but hard to answer with out the above information.

The first thing that comes to mind is that the new clutch cable is not the correct length (too long). Did you compare the old one with the new one? When you pull in the clutch lever you should be able to see the clutch release lever at the transmission move. If the lever is not moving then the cable is too long or needs adjustment.

The Haynes Service and Repair Manual ISBN 1844252787 has the wiring diagrams for GZ 125 Marauders from 1998 to 2005.

tyre pressure is big one so easy to check so common not to
also checking your chain is tight enough but can still move 1-2cm this will cause low power at takeoff and gear slipping but if bike not new could need new chain and crank set wont break the bank hope this helps helped me

It's the battery! mine does it every winter! try bumping her in second and going for a run

The most likely cause is the clutch plates have worn out. You have to consider that these 125s are usually ridden by beginners, this means that they will be revved out in ,at least, the first 3 gears.

Only one way to find out, get the bike running in the driveway with a couple spotters with you, do this at night, turn the handle bar till it cuts out, look for sparks, If there is a short you will find it. Also, check to make sure the the throttle cable is not hitting the fuel line or something crazy like that.

Check manufactures website,,, also check ebay for manual,,, good luck

DRAIN OIL INTO SUITABLE TUB REMOVE OIL WINDOW IF IT IS MOUNTED IN A NUT CLEAN WITH WD40 FLUSH ENGINE THROUGH WITH PETROL OR PARRAFIN REFIT OIL WINDOW AND SUMP PLUG REPLACE OIL FILTER REFIL ENGINE WITH NEW CLEAN OIL TO MAX LEVEL START ENGNE RUN FOR A FEW MINUTES SHUT DOWN RECHECK OIL LEVEL AFTER 15 MINS TOP UP IF NEEDED JOB DONE

IF YOU TURN THE THROTLE BACK TO FAR IT WILL JUMP OVER THE STOP BAR,,,TO SOLV TAKE THE TWO SCREWS OUT OF THE THROTLE AND LIFT THE TOP PART OFF THEN TURN IT BACK IN TO POSICION AND PUT TOP CAP BACK ON AND TIGHTEN,,,, HOPE THIS HELPS,,,EASY FIX.

replace your fuel filter or pull off your carburater n take it to bike shop 4 avibration cleaning oh first clean your air cleaner 2 it could be chocking 4 air

the lever itself? is it the type with the 10mm bolt going through the lever (into a splined shaft)?
if so then either the thread's gone in the bolt/lever or the splines have gone on the shaft, otherwise it's the gear selector shaft/bearings within the box.
Hope this helps

Start by spraying WD40 into starter switch, should clear any dirt in the switch. If that doesn't work then it could be a killswitch short, either at the button or along the wiring near the handlebars at the connector. If you can, find the killswitch wire and disconnect it from the wiring harness. If the bike then works as normal you can either leave it disconnected and switch off with key or take it apart and clean it all up, replacing faulty wire.