20 Most Recent 2001 Suzuki DR 650 SE Questions & Answers

Sounds like a bad head gasket. Try the following. Remove the head cover and tighten down the head bolts. Don't tighten the cam bolts. Remount the cover and hope that sealed up the leaking gasket. If not, the head will need a new gasket. Remove the head cover and sparkplug, put the piston at TDC compression then note the cam gear reference mark)s) position. The gear will need to go back in in the exact same position. Remove the cam gear and dismount the chain from the cam. Hook a wire to the cam chain so it can't fall into the tranny. Now pull the head off and remove the carbon from the head an piston then replace the gasket. It would be a good idea to reseat the valves since you have the head off. I don't really recommend this repair for the beginner. Please rate my answer.

Unplug the old one and plug in the new one.

A MOTORCYCLE POSTED TO CARS, MOVED YAH. buy the service manual. google finds it. blow-up drawings. buy it.

Have you checked your fuses? Checked your carbs for debris or fueling issues. If an electric fuel pump, does it 'buzz' when ignition on. If non electric (most likely) are you getting fuel to the carbs? Have you checked your filter, fuel tap and or vacuum lines.

There should be a Haynes manual for it.

Hope this helps.
James

I would BUY a service manual at a dealer or at least go there & ask the questions I have never in 50 years found- free to be of much value- & you do need the best reference material out there No inexpensive, popular & talked about stuff, will replace the factory guides & specs, you need to do your own work

Check the vacuum line between the carb and tap. It may have come off or is leaking. Remove the 'fuel out' lines from the tap. Remove the vacuum line from the carb and **** on it, turning the tap to "Reserve". You should now have fuel pouring from the tap. Also when sucking on the vacuum line you should only get a little air out the line and then it stops. If you can continuously pull air through the vacuum pipe then either it is leaking or the diaphragm in the tap is leaking.

Hi

The rattling will be either/or both the upper rear sprocket chain guard (black plastic) or the lower rear sprocket chain stay (silver metal). With the bike being lowered it has changed the angle at which the chain is pointing. There should be some adjustment in the lower silver chain stay (the bit that keeps it directly safely and stops it jumping). The black plastic upper guard is not really needed and can be removed.

The lowering procedure would have been to compress the forks a few inches, tighten up the yokes, so effectively you have a lowered front end and less suspension travel. Sometimes they slide the top of the forks out of the upper yokes (next to the speedo) and they stick out a little, maybe an inch or so. The rear suspension would have had a shorter spring installed.

The chain tensioning procedure can be done by tightening or loosening the rear chain tensioners next to the rear sprocket. Measure the slack/deflection of the chain in all gears and work out the average deflection of 1.4/1.5"

I hope all of this information helps and you can carry on riding your bike without any more annoyances.

Thanks

If trash was removed from carb,they were probably filled right back with trash if you didnt clean the rest of the fuel system before reinstalling it.(check fuel filter for dirt trash or water)

if it will run under partial throttle then sounds like your idle jet is clogged pull floatbowl off carb remove idle jet clean and replace make sure you can see through the jet before reinstalling

chreck your HT and see if you have a spark at the plug .
your HT may be faulty or you may have a loose connection somewhere .
CDI unit could be burned too .

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.

A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....

You can't, the computerized system is in place to stop exactly what you are trying to do, Steal the bike without the correct credentials. You can't reprogram or over-ride the computer. You need a bike electrician.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E210US1494G0&p=repair+manual+for+1986+Suzuki+cavalcade+gv1400

The crank case will be almost as hot as the oil flowing around the engine, lubricating the bearings.

Thinking you meant Raider and not 'rider', and this is a Suzuki motorcycle and should not be in Cars and Trucks category. Edited and moved. https://www.google.com/search?q=raider+150+carb+tensioner