20 Most Recent 1991 Suzuki DR 350 S Questions & Answers

I Think the DR gets oil to the rockers using an external line. Look for 3/16 line with banjo style fitting on the head or rocker box. the bolt for banjo fitting is hollow. Do not accidently install a standard bolt at banjo fitting . And do not over tighten Hollow bolts in banjo fittings.

1.7 litres if you change it without the filter and around 1.9 when you change both oil and filter. run the engine for five minutes then turn off the bike and leave for a minute and a half. unscrew the dipstick, wipe it and put it back in without screwing it and check that its within the lines on the dipstick

if you have a manualit will tell you how many ML it will hold from emptysome bikes tell you one the oil capsome bikes will tell you in a small window on the side of the engine which i beleive this is the solution in your caseunder the window it may also tell you how many ML to put insome bikes have a small drain screwun do the screw and top up the oil until oil comes out of the screw hole

Hi anne.have you sorted your problem hunnie.hope so.any thing i can help u with ..im all ears and back on line to help..take care.x

Hey Mike Perkins, Click Here and Click Here for some images of Stators of the DR 350.Good Luck

Disconnect your throttle cables from your carb. See if you can manually move the drum on the right hand side of the carb. If it moves freely and springs back, the carb is good. Twist the grip and see what happens. Pull the two screws out of the casing that mounts to your handle bars and disconnect your cables. try twisting the grip. If the grip is good then VIOLA! You have isolated the problem. I recommend bathing the cables in WD-40. I have a 92 DR as well and that definitely made a difference for me. At this point it wouldn't hurt to remove your twist grip and clean it all out. You are at that point anyhow, may as well make it worth the mother of disassembling it all. Good luck!

oil blow-back can sometimes be caused by a blockage causing the oil not to flow properly or you have a bad oil pump.check all hoses if it continues then take the cover off the oil tank , remove spark plug then hand crank the engine over and watch for oil flowing back to tank, if it doesn't you need to rebuild or replace oil pump

I would do a compression test first and determine if there is an adequate seal.. if the smoke blue than that could indicate blow by.. also did it loose power when this happened ??... take a look @ the plug for oil indicating incomplete combustion.

theres a dutch spares company called csml or cmsl holland and they do parts diagrams for all bikes. also clymer do a manula for the dr

I hadthe same issue with my 92 DR 350N. After lubing everything to the point of excess, I pulled the crank case cover and it turned out that there was a tooth on the chutch release shaft was broken. It's the one that pokes through the case cover. The top has the clutch shift arm attached. I don't recommend doing this next statement, but it's what I did. I just removed the chunks, re-serviced the engine oil and gave it a go. It works much better, but it needs to be replaced. Also, if your clutch isn't disengaging properly, you hear the rpm slam the shaft into the notched pin poking out of your clutch plate basket, you can do a lot more damage. Open it up and see what you get. Also, check the shifting fork for abnormal or excessive wear. While you are there, inspect your clutch plates and the spacers between your clutch plates. Keep them all in order. If you have the plates out for an extended period of time, cut a clean 5qt 10W40 jug in half, put your plates and spacers in it and soak the plates in clean oil. That will keep them damage free and it keeps them moist. If it's an "all of a sudden" issue, look to the shaft. If it's gotten progressively worse over time, look at your transmission hard parts (like the fork). May as well rebuild the ****** if you find a worn part. Otherwise, it will wear the transmission abnormally and lead to an early failure of the transmission asa whole. It sucks, but it's better than crapping the whole assembly. Good luck!

the pump should be accessible through the RHS cover, if the pump is not working it may have worn out the drive gear, oil pumps themselves are fairly reliable.

If it got real hot quickly, and it has an oil problem , there may be some damage to the cam and rockers, and again if it has a oil pressure problem the hard kicking could be the piston siezing against the bore, so the oil pump is the minor problem compared to the other damage that may have happened

Your bike has motor oil stored in the frame instead of a " tank". there is a frame drain located at the lower portion of the front downtube of the frame and the engine. If you are changing the oil you should drain both the engine and the frame and then re-fill. since you bike has two pumps, one to feed the motor and one to push the oil back to the frame, you need to add some oil and then run the bike for 30 seconds or so. After you have run the bike for 30 seconds check the oil in the frame and add as needed.

thanks and I hope that this helps.
steve

Maby the old owner cut the pickup tube and you no longer have a reserve.

If it will start and run as long as you work the throttle but not if you let it idle indicates improperly set idle speed or malfunctioning pilot circuit. See if you can get at a decent idle speed by not releasing the throttle completely....if it dies at a pretty consistent rpm I'd suspect the pilot circuit. If it will idle by hand so to speak adjust your idle screw. The fact that it will run but not idle tends to rule out the float as the float is simply a mechanism that allows fuel to enter the bowl as needed. The engine requires the least amount of fuel at idle so the float should not be the culprit if it will run above idle. The aforementioned advice assumes air filter, boots, and gaskets in good order. Hope this helps somewhat.

There is a part that is called the shifting fork. It is a pain to change. Where the shifter attaches to the shifting fork there are teeth on the shifter and the shifting fork. The shifter has a bolt through it to tighten the shifter. I would try taking the shifter off and cleaning both the shifting fork, which sticks out of the side of the motor, had teeth or knurl then a div-et then knurl. Clean it and the shifter up really good and reinstall the shifter. Tighten the bolt on the shifter really tight. If this don't fix it, then you can tack weld the shifter back on. But if you do this do it on the outside of the shifter where it can be ground back off, in case you ever have to split the case. The shifting fork goes all the way through the motor to the other side. 

out

it is a switch that wont let you ride away with the side stand down. The bike will probably start in neutral, but when you put it in gear, or go to let out the clutch, the switch will turn off the engine, unless the stand it up pushing the switch closed

There should only be one main fuel line, from the tap to the carby, the rest are just overflow, and vent hose. If you have a vacume operated fuel tap, then it will be a smaller hose, from the tap, to a vacume pick up point somewhere, mabey on the inlet manifold.