20 Most Recent 2002 Moto Guzzi V11 Sport Rosso Mandello Questions & Answers

it sounds like the solenoid secondary circuit has failed. Carefully stick a screwdriver between the 2 larger posts and the starter should spin.

Would need a bit more info, but here is a owners manual see if it will help you out.

How long does he have to wait to restart the bike? Does the bike stall when riding it? It sounds like your carb needs cleaning.

mande

If there are multiple bulbs behind the instruments, as i suspect, it may not be the problem,
could be a loose connection on the headlight switch gear

check the bulbs in the panel and check the wiring to the switch gear and dash

Follow the + wire on the battery. The first thing it goes to is the relay. It should be close to the battery

oil rad and exhaust.Forgot to clean her and got busy for a few weeksnow the stuff's baked on.I usually use a dilluted mixture of Simple Green and water.Wouldn't take some of the heavier crud off like it normally would. What else would loosen some of the baked on stuff that won't damage the paint or stain the Ti's?Anybody use anything more abrasive than a sponge to wipe off stuff and get in the nooks and crannies that won't scratch? Thanks,I've been using the s100 cleaner. Never tried the brightener. I get mine from a sorta local (25 miles) shop,,,

stayes on a minuit or so at highway speed. I've read about 20 old threads and suspect the regulator. Voltage readings accross the battery are really high... 13.5 volts at idel speed and floating around 18-20 volts at 4000 RPM. The 30 amp. fuse get hot quickly but has never blown yet... I just wanted confirmation that I'm on the right track before spending the money and wrench time what say you?,It does sound like a regulator problem but inspecting all the connections first is a good idea. Once you get this fixed I'd highly recommend installing a voltage monitor like one in the link below. I've got one installed on my LeMans and my Concours, it works great. I look at it as cheap insurance and way better than an idiot light. I mounted mine in the forward panel in the fairing with the module tucked underneath. All I see is the LED.,,,

Sounds like you will have to remove the cover and re-seal it. Use Permatex anaerobic sealer.

Does anyone on this site have installed a Moto Guzzi factory Ti Exhaust system that also came with the ECU and new hangers?? Is this a full system from the heads or is it just the cans??? How well does it work?? Is there any other suggestions for race / performance exhuast system?? I see many members use the Stucci or Mistral X-over and what ever cans the like. If I go this road is there any header pipes that can or should be used to work with the X-overs?? Any other Exhaust system (race or otherwise) suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have a 2004 V11 without the O2 sensor.I don't have any experience with the MG Ti set up but I do have alot of mod's in line with what you're considering. There are some with the set up you are considering and they will be here soon, no doubt. This is a great and helpful group/site.The biggest issue with the actual exhaust headers isn't so much which cross over will work, but that the '04's have that first cross over, in front of the alternator cover. The earlier bikes did not have this, and was added after'02(?) to address a percieved dip in the power curve at about 4000 rpm. This front cross over tends to loosen and then it is free to rattle around, and creates a exhaust leak. I am about to try solving this on mine as soon as I get the new gaskets. You could also look at Guzzitech.com to find headers made with no front cross over at all. There are several popular aftermarket cross overs for the one under the motor, and several threads concerning them. Some are said to improve either your mid range or top end power. Some prefer the Mistral, I think, because it allows the addition of an aftermarket center stand. There are many opinions, but there is also a central theme about them all. You will almost assuredly need some type of fuel control system, or a ECU remapping. The PowerCommander III seems to be the weapon of choice. I bought my bike already mod'ed, including the PC III, so I have never experienced the power dip many discuss here. Done properly, you will not be disappointed. After all, who amongst us has ever said,It's got more power, I don't like it now Spend enough time here in search mode and you will find many questions answered, and in some cases more questions now than when you first started... laugh.gif Good luck in your quest for POWER,,,

Here are some links: Moto Guzzi Agostini Mandello Exhausts AF1 Racing Aprilia Parts and Accessories Agostini Mandello Tank Protector... Moto Guzzi OEM Parts Diagrams Fiche Schematics and Ordering Pro Italia

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vwnijg8bTxE

what is the original problem that makes you think it is cam shaft problem If the manufacturer used cheap cams (not likely as it affects the brand name) the engine is under warranty and the cams would be replaced by the company Find a different service center or contact the manufacturer direct to see if there is a recall out on the engine consider this --if it is a moto guzzi mechanic that was telling you this , then why was it not booked in for replacement parts under warranty I suspect that he was trying to get extra money out of you and was not qualified in the product

Bad connection or faulty starter. Check voltage/current to the starter when you press start - should be around 8/9 volts for a 12 volt system - if considerably higher suspect starter, if lower and little current flowing suspect poor connection somewhere. If the voltage is low and current high suspect starter.

Probably have to remove the seat first. Most fuel tanks are retained by u shaped flanges that grip a round rubber puck on both sides of the frame near the steering head. After you drain the fuel, lift the rear of the tank slightly and pull it to the rear, it should then be free to lift off the frame.

Could be running way to lean and the fuel may have too much alcohol or water or the injectors may be clogged/restricted.

I don't know what vehicle/equipment you're referencing here. With that in mind, can you drill a hole or holes through the chassis just below the gas cap to allow water to escape?