20 Most Recent 2002 kawasaki ZZR 1200 Questions & Answers

Reserve will be facing upwards. Please check the dail where you can see the indicator or arrow.Thanks

About 124 hp with out any mods. Open the air box and the exhaust, and you may add 10 to 15 more. Hope this helps Fix Ya up.

Engine Sprocket Nut: 92 ft. lbs.
Rear Sprocket Nuts: 44 ft. lbs.
Rear Sprocket Studs: N/A
Crankcase Breather Cover Bolts: 97 in. lbs.
Clutch Lever Pivot Bolt: 8.9 in. lb.
Clutch Lever Pivot Bolt Locknut: 52 in. lb.
Clutch Slave Cylinder Bleed Valve: 73 in. lb.
Clutch Slave Cylinder Bolts: N/A
Clutch Hose Banjo Bolt: 18 ft. lbs.
Clutch Pipe Banjo Bolt: 18 ft. lbs.
Clutch Reservoir Cap Screws: 13 in. lb.
Clutch Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts: 97 in. lb.
Starter Lockout Switch Screw: 11 in. lb.
Clutch Cover Bolts: 97 in. lb.
Clutch Cover Damper Bolts: 89 in. lb.
Clutch Cover Oil Pipe Banjo Bolt: 110 in. lb.
Clutch Cover Oil Pipe Mounting Bolt: 53 in. lb.
Clutch Spring Bolts: 97 in. lb.
Clutch Hub Nut: 96 ft. lbs.

Here is the Torque Specifications section of the service manual:
http://www.4shared.com/document/prKf3kcK/Kawasaki_ZZR1200_Torque_Specif.html
This document is in PDF format and requires Adobe Reader (FREE) to open I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

first check you wires on the battery are they thight? now check your body ground follow the ground from the battery to end of the wire. check your battery. it could have juice to light the light and things but no cranking amps. remove the battery and run it down to the local parts store tell them you would like to have a load test done, they should do this for free. if your battery passes then the next thing to check is the starter relay, make sure the wires are tight,hit the starter bottom is the clicking your hearing coming from the relay. cross the two termamails with a screw driver or something like that. did your start spin? bad relay if it did and the battery is good if it didn't and the battery is good you mighthave to replace your starter
Good luck
M.Woodring

you need change the telescopic and the shock rare and front. so that it will lower the bike.

Replace the head gasket

Being electronic ignition, the timing should not be out.
It is more likely there is tight valve clearances, this will cause backfire and poor fuel economy and poor idle. also if it is not corrected it can burn valves and seats.
solution
full tune and service with valve adjustment.

Look at the sidewall of both tires. There will be a 'MAX PSI' embossed on the tire. It will probably say Max 45 PSI. At 45psi the bike will ride like a rock. At 15psi it will ride really squirrely. Find a psi at which you feel the bike handles well and rides well. One rider may weigh 125 pounds and the next rider may weigh 300 pounds. The best psi for each rider will be different due to weight. Chances are that 30 to 35 psi will do the trick.

You need three main things for combustion; spark & fueal/air mix & compression.

If you don't have a compression tester the old trick is to stick your thumb over the spark plug hole and crank it. You should get a puff big enough to really blast your thumb out of there.

How many miles on the engine? Did it sit (the rings can fuse/rust to the engine wall if not fogged with oil)?

If you get an compression tester you generally aren't so concerned about the actual # right away but that they are all within about 10% of each other. So like you get 100psi on one the next should be no higher than 110 or lower than 90.

Hope this helps.

hi,might be able to help,i am not sure if your bike is injected or not,if it is a carb model then you will have to have the carbs rejetted to suit the modifications you have done to it,it sounds like the bike is running to lean,and you will have to get it sorted sooner rather than later as the engine will be damaged if left running in to leaner state,if your bike is injected take it to a kawasaki agent and have the fuel mapping adjusted to suit,hope this helps...cheers

interesting one this,, the are drain / breather tubes under the bike running from the carbs / tank maybe they are blocked / kinked and the fumes from the tank cant get out and are building up in the tank and forcing the fuel up and out ?is the a hissing noise when cap removed ?drain tank remove tank and check all lines are clear blow them out ,check there routing making sure they are as kink free as poss , not sure if gas cap is vented or not maybe new cap is needed..

I believe they are gas charged units. If so, you will have to change them out

The plugs have no need for Never Seize. In 45 years of bike repair I have never seen a plug fail to come out. Also, I would be concerned about any problems the compound may create being exposed to pressure and extreme heat. Can I get a “very helpful” rating on this answer?

Kawasaki part number is 26012A and it refers to Yuasa YTX14-BS battery

have you checked the breather in the petrol tank
if its blocked it can cause this problem as the petrol gets vapour locked.

Google " kawasaki motorcycle service manuals "

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sounds like your getting alot of crank case blow by   or the engine is over full with oil  may also be in need of oil change  these will all cause this to happen  is this a high milage bike  it to can  cause blow by  

Question edited for full make model cc. Question moved to sub-category. Your Service Manual is in the link. Page 445 refers. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/375248/Kawasaki-Zzr1200.html?page=445&term=Main+Fuse+Removal&selected=1#manual https://www.google.com/search?q=Kawasaki+ZZ-R1200+replace+main+fuse ..