20 Most Recent 2000 kawasaki GPZ 500 S - GPX 500 R Questions & Answers

on my bike it is said to be the rectifier, no fixing it just toss and get a new rectifier. its not converting/reducing AC voltage as it should, so higher than spec surplus elec current gets dumped back into the battery, cooking it, also first check your battery ground it may be the problem

I'm afraid anything is possible. Certainly the drive can fail. There's no way the oil could have leaked out?

do you have a circuit diagram. have you traced the system through. Sounds to me like it is an issue before all that, either with the junction box or IC igniter. The stop switch could also be an issue as could the ignition switch. Keep posting if you want me to have a closer look at my wiring diagram

i would get your battery tested sounds like low voltage it should test 12.7 volts if it is good. batterys usually dont survive after being dead for any lenght of time.

If you are not VERY mechanically inclined...and have the special tools required... .please take this to a professional!! it will be less expensive in the long run.!! It takes some special tools that only dealers have.

Rebuild the Carbs!!!
Had Same Problem with my 750..
Your Welcome
HotRod42069

Before you attempt to take out the ignition, call a dealer and ask him if they can get you a key for your bike by using the VIN as reference. Harley and some metrics can do it this way.

.030 to .035

check coil or wire from coil. could be blown fuse or bad brain...aka CDI in which case you could open it after locating it and possibly discover a bloated capacitor which you can snip off and solder in a new one for 2 bucks. at a radio shack or electronics parts store

sidestand lockout switch is sticking...bike thinks that you're trying to ride away with the stand down so it kills the sparks.

Not likely, but it can kill a battery.

If you have a wiring diagram, trace out the ignition system this way you trace problems. But you could pull the plugs and put them in the wire and ground it against the head, away from the spark plug hole, turn the engine over and see if it fires, i use a spark tester, but a known good plug will do. If there is no spark then check to see if you have volts at the primary side of coil "the little wires that hook to it test them with the ignition on" if no volts there then begin your volt chace checking all wire and connectors. You will need a multi meter ok. let me know how it goes, just takes patience and time k.

www.bikebandit.com

In the above picture inside the rectangular box area to the left of the push rod do you see the many actuator parts that the clutch has to push the rod and disengage the clutch? One of these is broken or has come loose and jammed the clutch release mechanism, you will need to pull the assembly apart and see what has gone wrong, no matter what it has to come apart for inspection. Here is the factory parts site where I got the diagram.

http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/?gclid=COzM5-jOoqkCFcsZQgodAHcQvA#/Kawasaki/KZ550-H1_GPz_(1982)/CLUTCH/KZ550-H1-1982/080108B-11

The cakey, white oil color is water emulsified with the oil. Rainwater, car wash spray, condensation in the tranny, rain water or sprinklers have contaminated the oil. If the tranny will not shift into a higher gear, there is a bent shift fork or two creating the problem. This can be a costly repair and is not recommended for the novice mechanic. Below is a diagram showing how the shift drum rotates to move shift forks left and right to change gears.

obtain the factory puller,it should come off easy then

I would say if you have not messed with the adjutments on your carbs , they are prob ok.
It sounds like if you drain your fuel, tank, all filters, what is left in the carbs
will work it self out, you can remove and drain either way. Go buy new spark plugs and filters
Charge your battery to full charge slow trickle while you working on the other . I am confident that you will be happy with the results .

boost it, it should stay running if the charging system is good, then you can check charging rate

Kawasaki's are notorious for the waterpump seals going. There are little rubber doughnut seals (3 if i remember) that run along the impellor shaft. When these break down, you get the leak. I would be pretty certain on a bike of this age, that this is your problem. It isnt a massive job to do, but if your not technically minded it can get messy. The shaft is connected by a circlip on the opposite side to pump prop, and should, i emphisise the word SHOULD slide out, once the clip is released. But beware as ALOT of these become siezed and stuck fast, so some more dissasembly may be required. You can try taking off the cover and using a good instant gasket, providing that your running temp is fine, no water in the oil (if your lucky) but these cover seals are designed to pop if there is too much pressure behind them, hence me telling you about the impellor seals.

Hope this helps mate,

Mista B.

drain the coolant and fill with water and about a half cup of tide powder detergent, run the bike a while and drain, you will have to flush with water several times to remove all detergent before refilling with coolant.