20 Most Recent 1999 kawasaki ER-5 Questions & Answers


Hi, Bigzedsix the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.biker.ie/forum/showthread.php?t=121500
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZJP3ciutlw
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/375061/Kawasaki-Er-5.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://kawasaki.com.au/download-owners-manuals/

1999 kawasaki... | Answered on Jan 13, 2019


Hi, Jennywalt574 before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Depending on battery voltage starter relays and starter solenoids can make the same noise when you hit the starter button. You can easily determine which one is at fault by two simple tests:
STARTER RELAY- place your thumb and index finger on the starter relay and press the starter button, if you feel the click then the relay is faulty and needs to be replaced.
STARTER SOLENOID- bridge the positive and negative poles of the solenoid with a small screwdriver if you get a loud clunk then the solenoid needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. If the engine turns over then replace the starter relay.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that is sealed depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build-up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ" if you get a single loud "CLUNK" then the starter solenoid is at fault and needs to be rebuilt or replaced as necessary. The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Fixxit/comments/3kdb7l/1999_kawasaki_er5_wont_start_buzzingcrackling
https://www.visordown.com/forum/workshop/er5-not-starting
KAWASAKI ER 5 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
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1999 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 14, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How to remove the rear wheel on Kawasaki ER 5
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1999 kawasaki... | Answered on Jul 30, 2018


Hi, Anonymous before diagnosing your blown fuse issue, check the bottom of your seat, if its metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) You are going to need a wiring diagram from your service manual, a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses.
If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with an ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
ER 5 No power getting to the electronics
main fuse blowing My hairs getting thinner Ex 500 com The home of the...
KAWASAKI ER 5 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

1999 kawasaki... | Answered on May 28, 2018


The ER5 has got an electronic rev-counter, no cable.

Like the oval rear brake-drums this is another ER5 bugbear, the rec/rec fails, the battery boils and the rev-counter is usually a victim too.
Often on ER5 specific forums there will be someone who repairs the circuit board and sells the repaired units much cheaper than a new one. it's usually a tiny zener-diode that is killed.

1999 kawasaki... | Answered on Aug 13, 2009


by some

kawasaki ER-5... | Answered on Aug 15, 2013


Get a new clutch and c if that fixes the problem and if not its the transmission

kawasaki ER-5... | Answered on Dec 18, 2012


If the bike is a four stroke, chances are the valves need to be re-seated. Do a compression check. If you re-post the problem, tell us the year, model and engine size of your bike. That will allow us to help better.

kawasaki ER-5... | Answered on Apr 23, 2011


Try BikeBandit.com. Look for schematics.

kawasaki ER-5... | Answered on Apr 19, 2011


This should help ya but get it quick,,,,,http://www.myacrobatpdf.com/8383/kawasaki-er-5-motorcycle-service-manual.html#

kawasaki ER-5... | Answered on Feb 15, 2011


You can buy a piece of rubber at the hardware store. They sell a pad for making rubber plumbing gaskets . You could experiment with carefully placed shims to see if it helps. I do not think it will hurt anything to try, and it might be nice to get the clunk out.

kawasaki ER-5... | Answered on Oct 02, 2010


You have to have the slack of the chain at the adjustment side. or the loosness can be on at another portion of the chain, preventing proper adjustment.

kawasaki ER-5... | Answered on Sep 27, 2010


What is the make and model of the bike. Most bikes will have jug behind one of the side covers where you add coolant.

kawasaki ER-5... | Answered on Aug 24, 2010


Hi, Ryan and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a "LOAD" test "WARNING" you can have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps and the battery must be replaced.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Preventing Backfire on Motorcycle Exhausts DoItYourself com
Kawasaki Motors Philippines Commuter Bikes
Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi Workshop Manual
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

kawasaki... | Answered Yesterday


Check the tickover nixture is correct first.

kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 01, 2019


Unfortunately electrical issues can not be solved over the internet. There are just too many variables to cover. I suggest you start at the power source and work your way towards the ignition. Once you find where the power stops, you will find the issue.

kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


First thing I would look at is the fuel tank cap. There is - or should be a tank breather tube. The cap and the tube can - and do - get clogged up with dirt. Clean this thoroughly with a solvent and poke something small into the hole(s) to ensure they are clear.
Also, check out the air filter - is one present ? If there is, is it clean ? Next, go for the spark plugs - these 400cc 4-strokes rev hard and high - more like 2-strokes - so the plugs take a real hammering. Invest in some iridium ones - well worth the expense.

kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 14, 2019

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