20 Most Recent 1996 kawasaki GPZ 1100 Questions & Answers

https://www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/41080-1353-FB?ref=b2e706a057e738d928ad43b5c2812873eb689a7e

Is the bike flooding out then? Smell gas? One possibility could be, sticking carb floats . It has been known for the composit floats to become porous and soak in fuel which makes them too heavy to float . Its a lonng shot but if you have to strip the carbs just check . Good luck.

Hi Pete, just a guess but the "pop" was probably a bad connection, possibly the ground wire at the engine. Often when not under a load, just the clock for instance, you'll get a volt reading but under a heaver load you loose the connection. Look for a bad connection in the ground and battery connections, Frank

Your bike use fuel injector

Hi , try to press the clutch lever wille you push the start button

That sounds like a worn lay shaft. Check the oil viscosity and maybe include an additive like Slik50 etc. to give the shaft a bit more of a cushioning against wear.

It sounds like the carbs are gummed up from sitting. The fuel that we get now is very unstable and gums up quickly. When you choke the bike it is bypassing the carbs and that is why it runs. I would suggest a carb clean and fuel tank flush, the carbs are very intricate and should only be worked on by a qualified technician.
Thanks,
Steve

Get the manufacturers original replacement part for best results. Any imitations will cause you grief ... up to and including leaving you stranded out in the middle of no where at the very worst time.

Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com

There are 3 hose, Fuel outlet tank vent and tap vac. The vent hose usualy goes down past the swing arm and is open to the world. the fule outlet suppies flue to the carbies and the vac tap one come from a vac port/s on the top of 1 or 2 carbies. and the other end goes tot he back of the fuel tap to turn it on.

run compression and leak down tests. compression test to see if there is a loss, leak down test to find from where it's leaking.

Not much you can do, except replace the switch.

try denniskirk.com

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

The voltage on the green wire must be pulsating when cranking/starting the bike, not steady. Confirm by similarly testing the voltage on the black wire on the left ignition coil. If the green still reads a constant voltage, then the CDI is faulty; to be more specific, most likely that the switching tansistor inside the CDI that drives the right ignition coil has shorted.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

The On position is where you run the bike after filling the tank. The Res position is when you are almost out of fuel and the motor stutters you turn the switch it it and that will give you about 1/2 a gallon of gas left in the tank to get to a gas station and refill. Pri is for priming the carbs only. If you have ran out of gas after using the reserve fuel you switch it to this position to fill the float bowls with fuel. Do this for only 30 seconds and switch it back to On position.

Sounds like the bike "thinks" the side stand is still down. There is a switch on the side stand to tell the ignition if it is up or down. The intent is to prevent a person from riding off with the stand down and crashing. Check first to see if it is sticking. Observe the operation of the switch as you raise and lower the side stand. Often, a shot of lubricant can resolve this issue. If the switch is moving in and out, then disconnect it from the wiring harness and put an ohmmeter across the two leads and check for continuity and no continuity as the side stand switch is down and then up. If the plunger for the switch is moving in and out with the side stand, and you do not get a change of continuity with the side stand up or down, it will need to be replaced.

Go To Kawasaki.com and click Owner Tools, Parts Diagrams, Search for you bike and look at the diagram of the carbs

Try the web. Google " salvage kawasaki motorcycle parts " and google " salvage kawasaki motorcycle fairings ".

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ello m8,, the pistons on the caliper sond bit seized,one caliper at a time,, undo the bolts that hold the caliper on the fork, , take off the brake caliper from the wheel ,, get your self some copper grease ,or for now any grease,, pull in the brake lever as if u were braking, and see if the piston moves in the caliper, pump the lever a few times, untill it moves then smear some grease round that piston or both pistons, then prize the piston back in ,,pump the lever again a couple times then put back on the wheel then bolt it back up,, do the same to the other caliper ,,try that 1st mate,, cheers