20 Most Recent 1994 kawasaki VN 750 Vulcan Questions & Answers

Another possibility is that you've used brake fluid from a previously opened container that has drawn moisture from the air. Any moisture in the system will cause the fluid to expand when it gets hot. If opening the bleeder valves briefly solves your problem temporarily, it's contaminated fluid. If it doesn't, the person who rebuilt the calipers didn't hone them properly, and the pistons are getting caught on burrs. Good luck!

It sounds like you have a broken or worn swing arm bearing. There are two bearings , on on each side of the swing arm. If the one on the shaft side has gone bad it would cause the shaft to twist or move the result being the rubber dirt boot getting rubbed. To check, unbolt the lower shock bolts , remove the rear wheel , grab the swing arm , and move it from side to side to see which side has the worn/broken bearing.

try cleaning the carbs, changing plugs, and cleaning the fuel tank. If that doesn't work, it might be the piston rings are getting worn out or you cylinder sleeves need a honing.

you can jb weld it or drill hole threw lever and shaft and put bolt and through it.

That definitely sounds like the clutch is shot,like it's not even there.Inspect both ends of your cable first before going to replace the clutch.Sometimes either end of the cable will fray and pop off the little bead stopper.It also could just need re-adjusting at the clutch end.If you are up around 70-80K miles,probably the clutch though.Good luck.

Yes sticky float and possible a problem with the fuel tap. It should have a vacumn opperated tap that turns off when the bike is not running.
Try to avoid ethanol fuels

Could be dirty carb, bad float or float level...or could be a bad clutch asssembly Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

sometimes if you run out of fuel it can **** all the **** into the fuel filter causing slight fuel starvation making the engine run hotter as believe it or not fuel also has some cooling and lubing effects on your engine thus giving you sone smoke out of your exhaust as it's trying to burn off the carbon in your tailpipe.
Know it's a long shot but it may just be this.

Hope this helps

Charge the battery and refit to the bike, start the engine and check that the charging system is working ok. Set multimeter to DC and check that it is charging between 12.5 - 14.8volts at a steady rate when revs increased steadily. If the voltage is not increasing or very erratic then it is a good indication that the regulator/rectifier is at fault. If the battery is charging well above the 14.8 then the battery is at fault.

If your able to ride it for a few minutes before loosing compression it tells me that you may have your valves adjusted too tight. And as things heat up the gap becomes less and less until it actually holds the valve open just slightly thus loosing the compression. Try adjusting them .002 looser and see if you are able to go further. Should tell you all you need to know. My next thought would be the base gasket under the cylender which I have seen cause intermittent problems.

yes. see us at yahoo groups vn750

your magnito is not working or you need to adust the points on the magnito.

there should be a little window just below the oil fill area that says high and low, that's where you gauge the level of oil you have. it's not a dipstick, and not very precise, but that's it.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Offhand would suggest a rebuilt/clean of the carbs. A temporary workaround would be to switch off the fuel petcock, remove the fuel hose, partially drain the carbs and spray into the fuel hose (going into the carbs) injector/carb cleaner. Reinstall fuel hose, turn on fuel. Remove the air filter and start the bike. After warmup, rev while spraying injector/carb cleaner into the opening where the air filter should be. Get a hard paper/board (such as a folder) cut to a size bigger than the air filter but would fit inside the opening of the airbox. Rev/pump the bike slowly building the RPM at about 4~5K suddenly cover the opening (with the board) to fully choke the carbs while maintaining throttle. Before the engine dies, remove the cover. Spray again while revving. Repeat choking/spraying several times. The idea is for the vaccum to draw the clog/blockages.

Pls post back result(s). Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Hi Todd: Sounds suspiciously like it would be brake fluid. Check to see if it is connected to the rear brake master cylinder. (that's the thing that has a shaft that is connected to the brake pedal) Motorcycles like Grade 4.

There's a black plastic knurled knob under the left side of the gas tank that adjusts idle speed.

fuel comes out of air filters????!! no, definitely wrong

Your clutch is either out of adjustment or it's fried.

CHECK WIRING CONNECTIONS ARE NOT LOOSE .