20 Most Recent 1994 kawasaki GPZ 500 S - GPX 500 R Questions & Answers

If it died while riding and would not start even with a boost chances are the charging system is not working or the battery is not accepting the charge.
Make sure battery is full of water(distilled and at the upper line in each cell)and charge the battery. Start the bike and use a multi meter and ckeck the voltage at the batery terminalls(red+) (black -) and if the charging system is working you should have between 12.5 and 15 volts. If it is at 12volts or under than you need to look at your charging system. If te system chack out ok @12-15 volts than I would invest in a new battery. I recomend a yuasa battery.
I own the same bike as you and never had an issue with the yuasa ( i won't run anything else)

Hope this helps
Greg

Try changing the plugs & draining down the carbs by way of the drain bolt at the bottom of the carbs
If this doesnt work then get back in touch as it could be many things

Good Luck
Hope this helps.
(If it does then please mark this as 'useful')
Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

there's so many things it could be but if you have covered all you say thoroughly, have you checked the timing? As it is fixed the only timing you can double check is the cams and crank. do you have a manual?

The older rotors used to crack up and ruin things to do with timing but i think the D models have improved rotors.

It should be dry. The crank seal has failed. If you remove the flywheel and stator you should be able to access the seal.

there is nothing about changing the gaskets that will stop the engine starting, unless you left some rags in the ports between the gasket change

might need a new cam chain

I have the same bike, put fresh gas in it and make sure its high octane. Check your plugs make sure they arn't fouled, make sure the intake boots on the carb are tight. Check air filter.

I bet its the gas, thats what happened to mine.

Ok, if when you are out riding and you accellerate hard and you don't feel slipping, then it is probably not a lack of engagement. If as you say that there is not much in between then shifting should be tough. Try adjusting your clutch. One possibility to consider you might not have thought of is that your clutch lever bearing is worn out. If this does not work, let me know and i'll narrow it down for you.

use a voltage meter to check voltage @ battery it must b at least 12 volts, if not put a charge on the battery, or buy a new one If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_00678fd4800d19c5

the front shocks will have to be taken into a hydraulic centre and the spring will have to be cut to suite your height then the right amount of oil put in

losen the triple tree clamps which hold the forks and slide the fork tubes up and retighten

Air tool because it turns fast. Do you mean the head of the bolt broke off? IF so you need to take a drill & a left thread turning drillbit to turn it out.

try new coil the coil has to be grounded as well

If you are not VERY mechanically inclined...and have the special tools required... .please take this to a professional!! it will be less expensive in the long run.!! It takes some special tools that only dealers have.

Rebuild the Carbs!!!
Had Same Problem with my 750..
Your Welcome
HotRod42069

Before you attempt to take out the ignition, call a dealer and ask him if they can get you a key for your bike by using the VIN as reference. Harley and some metrics can do it this way.

.030 to .035

check coil or wire from coil. could be blown fuse or bad brain...aka CDI in which case you could open it after locating it and possibly discover a bloated capacitor which you can snip off and solder in a new one for 2 bucks. at a radio shack or electronics parts store

sidestand lockout switch is sticking...bike thinks that you're trying to ride away with the stand down so it kills the sparks.

Not likely, but it can kill a battery.