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1992 kawasaki ZZR 400 Questions & Answers
Hi ive got a kawasaki zzr400d model and ive got an
there are lots of places it could come from the most common will be oil filter oil radiator the small bottom one also check the oil lines from the small radiator to the engine wipe it clean with a cloth stand it over a sheet of clean newspaper to get an idea where its dripping from to and also another common place is under the sprocket cover there are a few places check there also
Hi there i have a
Increase your idle speed at the fuel/air intake manifold. There should be a screw to allow for this adjustment. If that fails the engine timing may be off and should vbe reset to stabilize idle speed.
How many turns out should mixture screw be
start with one full turn then move a quarter turn listen to engine revs will increase u might have to turn down the idle speed keep doing this till the engine speed stops increasing.take it arun then check colour of spark plugs they should be browny gray
Hey guys i need some help pls. on my zzr400k there
If you mean the bottom of the tank then one goes to the carb and one is just a breather/overflow that gets ran down out of the way and doesn't connect to anything. If you are talking about the carbs then one goes to tank and one goes to the vacuum
I have a zzr400 but with i start the bike i dont get any revs
Fuel system is clogged,..GARAUNTEED!! Take off the fuel tank,to get to the swirl bowl. Inside the swirl bowl,you will find a fuel filter,which SHOULD be completely white,and most likely,its not! Get a new filter and install it. While you have the tank off,disconnect the injector line,and remove and clean the injector with carb cleaner and pressured air.Put everything back together,and then add an INLINE FILTER to the feed line on the fuel pump which is located on the left hand side,running from the shut off valve,to the fuel pump. These are awesome quads,but the fuel injection system is a pain in the a$$.Good Luck!
Will a zzr 600 engine
Hello and welcome to Fixya, It can be done, one of our competitor's race teams did it with some pretty drastic modification's. Its definitely a challenge.But seen it accomplished. I could give you there info, they may be able to give you some hints. Let me know, Thanks for using Fixya
Dear Expert, As i have
Given the year of the bike there are a few things you will need to look over
*Check your break pads for even wear
*Change your break fluid
*Check your clutch lever (it should move about a millimeter before it actatually grabs the clutch)
*That bike has carborators. They need to be cleaned (could be part of problem 1 and 2)
*Check the fuel tank for rust. (there are treatment kits if it is rusted)
*your throttle cable should be lubed with cable lube(part of problem 1)/(when you pull the throttle cable then let go it should snap back closed)
*get higher octain fuel (this will help with problem 2)
Engine wont idle, fumes very,
They don't go too high on their own, someone has to have maladjusted them
It could be a leaking float, that will amount to the same fault. Or, it might be the choke is stuck on.
The bike starts and idles
- if u need more fast .. then don't change air filter and otherthings except oil...
- remove the BORE and give that to bore service centre they adjust it ,how much speed you want, only in bore don't go beyond that...
Not firing on number 3
You have two coils. Each operates two cylinders in what is called the wasted spark system. The plug fires on the compression and the exhaust stroke. If the spark plug is wet you have either a shorting wire , a bad spark plug cap , or a fouled spark plug. Try replacing the spark plug cap and spark plug.
If you still have spark on that cylinder and the plug is dry. You have a bad needle in the carburetor, a stuck float, or dirt causing the no fuel issue. You will have to clean and inspect the number three carburetor .
I have a 2002 Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 I'm customizing it can the rectifier be moved so it's not just hanging there.
Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components.
While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:
- Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
- Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
- Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
- Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.
Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality.
If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.
12/15/2023 3:53:13 AM •
kawasaki...
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697 views • 3 helpful votes
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