20 Most Recent 1991 kawasaki ZZR 1100 Questions & Answers

my suggestion is dont remove it it is manufactured to perform at peak performance with all hooked u will have many problems trying to disconnect the emissions if u can get it to run diconnecting the emissions will not make it faster it will more than likely perform sluggish and run slower

hi send me your email address and i will email you the complete workshop manual in pdf format.
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hello you can download the service manual for the Kawasaki Zzr 1100 1999 from the below linkhttp://goo.gl/HXcTkThanks

sounds like a fouled plug or a timing adjustment take out the plugs and look for oil on the plug. if there is oil on the plug clean with degreaser and try it out. If you consistently get oil fouls check valve seals

You may check to see if the fuel valve is turned on. Usually on the left side of the tank, near the rear of it.

The usual cause of this problem is a coil breakdown- either ignition coil(plug) or timing coil(inside timing sensor) . Check your Spark plugs first though as these can breakdown at high frequency. Check the coil resistance with the values in the manual. If this doesn't give you a pointer then get back to me. Hope this helps.

Yes, especially if you have been using gas with ethanol by government mandate. (oxygenated)

check to see if any of the rubbers have splits????also i recommend having the carbs balanced.

Since your engine has a horizontal split in the crankcase, the top end does not need to be torn down. Yes, a bent shift fork is likely to be the problem. Before going too far, first check the index wheel and spring on the end of the shift drum. The mechanism may be loose and/or the spring broken. If you are lucky, you may not need to split the case.
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Plugs are placed under the air filter housing.You have to remove the fuel tank and the air filter housing....the oil filter located under the engine but you have to remove at least one or the lower fairings

It shouldnt be any problem.European models wear 180/55/17.

Check to see if your fuel pump relay is good first. Then if it is good you are going to have to buy and install a new fuel pump.

if there is not a sight glass on the side, or a dipstick on the oil fill cap, then you check the level by draining and refilling it to the proper CC ammount.

you do it

Hi
If no pulse to coils then :-
1st try checking the resistance of the pick-up (pulsar) coil
Then check for continuity between the pick-up (pulsar) coil & the CDI unit & no continuity to earth
Then check for continuity between CDI & ignition coils
If all OK, unfortunately you have to suspect the CDI unit itself, which is a very expensive item (they can be repaired by some specialist electronic firms)

Ride safe
Bike-Doc
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are you sure theres no power?...check with a tester....or is it the fuel pump thats not working??

do you mean the sump plug ??? to let the oil out when you give it a oil change??...if so its on the sump on the bottom of the engine...

this could be a number of things have a compreshion test done on the engine if its very low say 100 psi or less the starter cant turn the engine over that fast to build up compreshion to start the bike up or it could be just a week starter not turning it over as fast as it should

remove the seat the battery is under there

.. or broken wire that gets pulled apart when under stretch in the corner? Need to get the voltmeter out and check all connections back to the battery with the steering on full lock.