20 Most Recent 1990 kawasaki ZZR 1100 Questions & Answers

I would contact a Kawaski Ninja forum and see what is available. I joined one for one of my bikes and they had a video showing how to take it off. The forum I visited did not post it on youtube interestingly enough... Also you may want to try downloading a service manual. There are many sites like tradebit that offer these at $10. If you are willing to take the time here is one site that claims you may download for free; Kawasaki zx11 zzr1100 service manual

Warm engine up... There are two sump bolts on these motors...one near the oil filter bolt under the engine towards the rear...the other is next to the oil cooler line fitting under the front of the motor...remove drain bolts and then remove filler cap as it speeds up draining. When drained...refit bolts and remove oil filter (round cover under rear of motor, centre bolt with same size head as sump plugs). Fit new filter and refill oil with approx. 3.5 litres...

it seems that the battery is not charged or not connected. When you open any door the light inside must turn on. When not, the battery is not charged. Charge the battery and try again.When the battery goes again out of the power, it indicate that the charging system or alternator are not working properly. Start your vehicle turn the headlamps on and check the voltage on battery. It must be higher than the voltage when engine is off.If the voltage with engine on is about 14,5 V charging and alternator are ok. Maybe the battery is dead.When the voltage with engine on is higher than with engine off but not 14,5 V, there is problem with charging system. When the volage is the same, it can be alternator or charging system.

if you are not getting fire the plugs try the ignition coil

find the coils and check the terminals with a tester to see if power is getting to them. if it is then it could be the coils or ht leads/ caps
if no power at coil then problem is between battery and coil or in the kill switch. check all ground / earth terminals you can find also
good luck, ride safe

First torque to 20Nm (14.5ft-lb)Then 51Nm (38ft-lb) for the 11mm bolts (outer 4) and 39Nm (29ft-lb) for the 10mm bolts (centre 6)

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

You may need to adjust the clutch. Try to loosen it a little for if it's too close it tends to slip.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Mate.My brother has the same bike.They are the original hypabike.I love them.
Just go on the net.You can get anything from brake pads to full system turbo chargers for that bike.They are strong and bulletproof and love to be 'hotted up'.The original ones are starting to up in value.Hope this helps you

you need to replace it
there is no way to fix it
you can find it with the valve as a standard package

No switch, no relay, your coil pacs do go bad. Considering the year, it might just be that. If you can find a set to try before buying them, It would tell you a lot, It could be the stator, alternator, something else in the electrical dept other than that. Hope this helps.

There are actually two drain plugs...look for the 17mm bolts with the washer under the head. The washers are "crush" washers that need to be inspected and replaced if necessary to prevent leaks.
The other bolt that needs to be removed is the oil filter drain plug. It is the large round cap. The bolt has an O ring for a seal. The new filter should come with an O ring for the drain bolt as well as a large O ring for the cover. (Be sure to ask or inspect the box when you buy a new one)
Check your manual for torque specs to be sure and not overtighten. On my '91ZX1100c the torque settings for the drain bolts = 18ft/lb and the oil filter bolt = 14.5 ft/lb. check your settings to be sure.

a) new bulb b) remove fasteners between upper and lower fairings so upper fairing can be removed c)remove windshield d) remove mirrors (which hold on upper fairing) e) remove and replace headlight bulb
f) replace everything

It obviously sounds like its being starved for fuel, you said that you replaced the pump and the filter, what about the carbs ? has anyone checked them out ?

If the bike has been sitting over the winter and the carbs were not drained or if the fuel wasn't stablized then you might have some dirty carbs, you can try draining the float bowls and then adding fresh fuel see if that helps, if not you'll likely have to pull your carbs and clean then. Todays fuel doesn't las that long before it goes bad.

there is settings on the shock spring. turn with hand clock wise until you reach the top one

try using a line locker close to master cyclinder ,lever should go rock hard if it has no air in system,work line locker down lines to see if lever stays hard.
also check the lever travel to make sure that lever is pushing on master cyclinder plunger as a lot of after market levers dont have correct casting and have to travel in a long way before brakes work even when system is bled. also check to make sure calliper carriers are not bent and pads not sitting square on rotors.
hope this helps

Only 280.There must be a problem.Try some nitrious or a blower.Clean the air filter and you might need a bigger set of man tonsils:)

RH side on the carbs under the throttle cable connection to the carbs. Screws in from below. You'll have to loosen the fearing to get at it.

Your motorcycle is about 20 years old. There is normal wear ... This is not a serious condition at this time ... expect it to decline.

You dont say how many miles are on the machine ... and you dont say anything about the maintenance it has received in the past ... and you may not know ... The oil light is on because there is insufficient oil pressure. Pressure is down because of the wear and/or because of the weight of the oil. You dont say how old the oil currently in the engine is.

You may want to use a LITTLE BIT of high mileage engine treatment, insure you follow the manufacturers recommendation concerning oil changes and other maintenance items. Your Kawasaki dealer may have suggestions for you, just ask them.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, charge and load test the battery.

Offhand with a fully charged battery, jump the 2 big terminals of the starter relay. If the starter motor spins, then faulty starter relay.

Good luck and thank you for asking Fixya.

The regulator is fitted behind the cap on the alternator/generator. It can be done on the bike, but I find it easier to remove the unit from the bike (it is the round unit on the left hand side of the engine. Undo the alternator plug where it joins the main wiring loom. There are three bolts (13mm socket I believe) two at the top, one at the bottom towards the front of the engine. There is a little bit of resistance as the unit comes out as there is an o-ring oil seal around the body of the alternator. Once off, take off the three 8mm nuts and remove the vented cap. The regulator looks like this:
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://images.wemoto.com/full/REGULATOR_RECTIFIER/10011327.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Kawasaki/ZZR_1100_ZX_1100_C1-C3/90-92/picture/Regulator/&usg=__dVtymnCcO5oqTkBwhPVA_QcS5CQ=&h=268&w=540&sz=15&hl=en&start=1&itbs=1&tbnid=67t-hktrN73o6M:&tbnh=66&tbnw=132&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dzzr1100%2Bc1%2Bregulator%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG%26tbo%3D1%26gbv%3D2%26tbs%3Disch:1
Hope this helps, Pete.