20 Most Recent 2000 Honda CBR 600 F(4)Y Questions & Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

The clicking sound is significant. It indicates that the starter relay is working and the safety features/interlocks are not faulty. A few tests to try:

• locate the starter motor relay by following the cable from the battery's + terminal;
• remove the rubber cap/cover to expose the 2 big terminals of the relay;
• verify by pressing on starter button. Click should be heard/felt on the relay;
• temporarily jumper the 2 big terminals on the nuts (not on the threaded portion);
• if the starter motor spins, the starter motor relay is faulty, specifically the contactors;
• if the motor does not turn, then most likely a faulty starter motor, specifically the carbon brushes.

Although, it is also possible for the starter motor not to spin if the engine has seized. A way to check is to engaged the bike in gear and try to turn the rear tire. If the tire/chain/transmission/engine turns, then it would be the starter motor.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

There are 4. Remove the upper faring and you will see the spark plug wires. Just follow em to the engine case.
Good Luck

just tighten till catching till seated then a full turn

I could be wrong but it sounds like your getting air in the gas lines. Is your gas cap tightening correct and working properly? Check all fuel lines to see if you have a crack or loose and air getting in.

i had many cbr's, awesome awesome awesome. any semi or full synthetic is good , just keep adding till it reads on the glass or dipstick wichever may be the case. start with at least one litre then check it.

if there is a oil cooler check it

the thing that controls your indicators should make a clicking sound when they are turned on, try changing your bulbs back to the stock lights, if that makes no difference replace your unit :)

give the kill switch a look over they break down especially if you as with many people use it regularly. this will cut everything on most bikes.

Firstly, the best starting point for a suspension set up is the manufacturers original settings. This allows you to go back to a baseline set up, no matter how much fiddling around you do.

Because everyone is slightly different and of differing weights, then a bike will work best when set up to the individual. The following rough guide for a solo rider has worked on bikes I've owned to give me a good suspension set up for road use.

Initially we'll adjust the preload on the suspension.
The front preload:-
1. Put a cable tie round the front fork stanchion (the shiney bit).
2. Get help from a mate and lift the front of the bike, so there is no weight on the front forks, and slide the cable tie down the fork until it rests on the fork seal. If you've got USD forks, then slide the cable tie upwards to the fork seal.
3. Put the bike back on the ground.
4. Now wearing all your riding gear, get on the bike gently and allow your full weight to settle on the bike in roughly a riding position. Try not to bounce the bike as you do it. You should now be sitting there with your tip toes lightly on the ground stabilising the bike.
5. When everything is stable, get your mate to slide the cable tie till it again touches the fork seal.
6. Carefully get off the bike.
7. The front of the bike needs lifting again until the weight is off the forks. Now measure the distance between the cable tie and the fork seal. Ideally the gap should be in the region of 30 to 40mm. If the gap is too large then increase the preload and repeat steps 2 to 7, if the gap is too small then reduce the preload and repeat steps 2 to 7.

The rear preload:-
1. With the help of that same good mate, you'll owe him a beer after all this lifting, lift the back of the bike so the weight is off the rear suspension.
2. Measure from the centre of the rear axle to a fixed part of the bike above it. Remember this measurement as R1.
3. Put the bike back down.
4. Now wearing all your riding gear, get on the bike and allow your full weight to settle on the bike in roughly a riding position. You should now be sitting there with your tip toes lightly on the ground stabilising the bike.
5. Measure from the centre of the axle to the same point on the bike as before. Remember this measurment as R2.
6. Now the maths. R1 minus R2 should be in the region of 30 to 40mm. If it's greater, then the rear preload needs increasing and repeat steps 4 to 6. If it's less then the rear preload needs reduciing and repeat steps 4 to 6. The R1 figure isn't going to change so there's no need to do 1 and 2 again.

Now we'll go onto the black art of the damping adjustment.
If the bike feels unstable, loose and rather bouncy, then the rebound damping needs increasing. Just try a little at a time until you find the setting best for you. If the bike feels hard and bumpy, then reduce the rebound damping. Again, just adjust a little at a time. Make a note somewhere how much you've adjusted things.
If the bike has a tendency to bottom out under braking, then increase the front compression damping. If it feels too rigid or tends to hop under braking, then reduce the front compression damping. If the back of the bike bottoms out in depressions or feels unstable in fast corners, then increase the rear compression damping. If the back end feels rigid and harsh, then reduce the rear compression damping. Remember to make a note of all the adjustments you've made.

If it all goes wrong, return the bike to standard settings and start again.

hope this helps


John

Pull one of your spark plug wires off and put a sparkplug in it. Touch it against the motor or frame(somewhere grounded) And crank it over. Don't hold onto the plug! It will shock you if it is getting fire!


Please Vote! Thanks!

Hondas answer would be to fit a new cylinder block, which with labour and gaskets etc, would cost proberbly as much as the bike is worth.
The good news is you may be able to use a helicoil kit to repair the thread. This is pretty inexpensive, and involves drilling the damaged threaded hole oversize, retapping, then inserting a stainless steel thread. Many bike shops offer this service, but be aware that any swarth from drilling etc must not get into the threaded hole as this could block waterflow or seize the water pump. It may be necessary to remove the block to do a good repair and flush away any metal swarth.
I am assuming it is just the thread that has stripped? If you have cracked the surrounding cylinder head then I'm afraid it will require the head and barrells to be removed and either the repair alloy welded, or a replacement head fitted.
good luck.

An air leak is making the fuel/air mix lean. This makes the engine run fast. Loose clamps or loose mounting bolts as well as cracked rubber manifolds and hose fittings are the usual source. Another possibility is a throttle line out of position or stuck.

1/4 inch

Check your speedo cable

It sounds like the starter solenoid (you said rectifier clicking) may have burnt contacts. If you jump the solenoid with a piece of wire (touch the wire coming from the battery to the wire going to the starter ) and the starter works, it's a bad solenoid. If you hold the starter button and gently tap on the starter with a plastic hammer and the starter works, you need to replace the starter brushes.

The fuel is probably flooding due to trash in carb, remove the fuel bowl,clean float needle,clean jet and the orfaces in it.(if dirt is in it clean the rest of the fuel system to keep it from happening again.) Spray cleaner does good.

you need to purchase a can of Sea Foam from Autozone pour1/3 can to 2 gallons gas, purchase a new fuel filter and fill it up with the Seafoam. buy some chemtool b-12 and clean just the return spring area of the throttle body. Now take apart your cables and shoot some WD-40 down the cables. Also check for any worn or cracked vacuum lines going to the carbs.

Model: Honda CBR 600 F4 Year: 2000 Category: Sport Engine and transmission Displacement: 599.00 ccm (36.55 cubic inches) Engine type: 599cc, liquid-cooled, inline, four-cylinder, DOHC, four valves per cylinder Stroke: 4 Bore x Stroke: 67mm X 42.5mm Carburetion: Four 36.5 mm slanted flat-side CV Compression Ratio: 12.0:1 Power: 110.00 HP (80.3 kW)) @ 12500 RPM Torque: 68.00 Nm (6.9 kgf-m or 50.2 ft.lbs) @ 10500 RPM Starter: Electric (Digital transistorized, with 3D mapping) Cooling system: Liquid Gearbox: 6-speed Transmission type
final drive: #525 O-ring sealed chain Physical measures Dry weight: 170.0 kg (374.8 pounds) Seat height: 810 mm (31.9 inches) Wheelbase: 1,395 mm (54.9 inches) Chassis and dimensions Front brakes: 296mm dual disc with four-piston calipers Rear brakes: 220mm single disc Tires Front tires: 120/70 ZR-17 radial Rear tires: 180/55-ZR-17 radial Speed and acceleration Quarter Mile Time: 11.00 seconds @ 124.65mph (199.44km/h) Top speed: 260.0 km/h (161.6 mph) Power/weight ratio: 0.6471 HP/kg Other specifications Fuel capacity: 18.00 litres (4.76 gallons) including 0.8 gal. Reserve Color options: Blue/red, black/yellow, black/dark gray

180/55ZR17

site window on casing side, little glass cover with a floating gage visable in window. Bike must be on level ground to be accurate. There is a small dipstick on some of the newer models also. on sidecase behind faring but should be visable as well as accessible