20 Most Recent 1985 Honda CBX Questions & Answers

super is the way to go. try using some stabil marine formula gas treatment if your bike does a lot of sitting

I have twou TMX155 pero di naman masyadong nagiging problema ang Timing madali lang yan kung bago ang spark plug mo your not required to udjust it anymore kasi standard na po iyon, better chek the contactpoit kung sakto po sa kompresion stoke dapat po mga 15degrees po befor the top dedcenter compresion stroke nag start na po bumukas yung contact point, or 30 degrees befor top ded center dumidikit na po yung camlobe sa contactpoit arm yunpong camlobe yunpo yung nandun sa magneto na natatangal minsan yung may spring makikita nyo po yung isang side ng outside surface e mas mataas kesa dunsa kabila allways put the camlobe inline w/ the keyway po yung kunya yung parang half moon, pag ganon po ang alighnement ay walang problema, then balik po sa contact point timing kung tama din po yung timing, at nag luluko parin dapat po check nyo na yung ignition coil baka po damage na pag malamig pa ok pero po pag uminit na nagbabago napo yung delivery ng koryente so it should be replaced na, pag po ang TMX ay gamit na gamit sa tricycle after 6 years po ang advice kopo palitan po ang ignition coil, carburador at yung camlobe, para po maiwasan na palaging nagluluko kasi po wornout na po iyung mga pyesa, yung carburador pag 6 years na naka trycicle matakaw na po sa gasulina maski palitan pa ng karayum at dinarin po bumababa ang minor, yun naman pong camlobe ay masyado napng mababa kya mahirap na pong makuha yung accurate timing, yun namang ignition coil ay mahina na ang deliver ng koryente. ibang mechanick dinila inaadvice ito kasi ayaw nila gumastos ang costomer pero mas makakatipid kayo dito kesa pabalik balik sa mekaniko. yunpong makina as long na inaalagaan po ninyo sa langis dipo agad masisira yan at aslong na di anaabuso yung sobrang tulin sobrang bigat ng hatak aabot po yan ng 8 to 9 years bago mag overhoul. tnk's (ashley mercado)

with your symptoms it could be bad or old gas, wrong or old oil, blow-by (oil getting into the combustion chamber) or worn valve guide. This symptom could also be related to the carburetor. If you are running the air/fuel mixture too lean or rich, then it could be fouling the plugs or over-heating the cylinder. What have you inspected? What tests have you run so far? How old are the spark plugs? Have you been inspecting them periodically? A compression test will help narrow down your search. I hope to hear back from you. Let me know if you have more questions but you have a bit of work ahead of you. Good luck.

the shut off valves for the float bowl are probably stuck-or not seating properly --remove the carbueretors and remove the float bowls ( the bottom covers ) - the valves are over the floats, near the pivot point -remove the pins that hold the floats - and remove the floats - the valves may be attached to the floats with a small klip --inspect and clean the valve and the valve seat

Just remove the lever, gently pull rubber boot out of the body, take a snap ring pliers,and remove the circlip, and pull the piston out of the body. Use the piston as a reference to install the seals correctly on the new piston. Be sure to take out the screw in the reservoir, remove the reservoir, and clean the fluid return pin hole ( Must Be Clear) , next to the large fluid feeder hole. Also using a dowel covered with a lint free cloth gently wipe out the piston sleeve being careful not to scratch the walls ( Do Not Hone The Master Cylinder or it will be ruined). Coat parts with brake fluid before reassembly in reverse order. Cover bike with plastic and put some old rags under master cylinder. Before tightening brake hose bolt, fill the master cylinder with dot 3/4 brake fluid and pump the lever until the master cylinder is pushing fluid out the end where bolt and hose are loosely connected, now tighten bolt holding the brake line on. This will aid greatly in bleeding the system.

There are two expensive spring loaded pressure plates that when pushed together have enough friction to make the alternator turn, they are worn out and probably need to be replaced. There are two bearings in the cover that also could be part of the problem. You will have to disassemble it to find out for sure.

vent pipe is usually the smaller of the two outlets

It maybe a safety switch in the clutch lever ?

the bike will run off the battery untill the battery runs out of power a short trip will be ok charge the battery at work and it should be ok for the way home take a spare battery with u just in case.good luck

that means flasher relay burnt out, replace.

Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell. If in a hot area like Texas or New Mexico go with 20w50.

its not hard you will need to take off your rear tire and un bolt it take it out and put the new one in.

have you read the manual? If your bike has a large fairing/windshield then you may need to remove it to get at the clocks to unscrew the speedo cable.
http://www.ukcbxclub.com/
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hello
generally there is no adjustment on the hydraulic system on your clutch. but some air in the system or a dirty master cylinder can produce these same type of symptoms. i would reccomend trying to bleed the system to see if you can get better results. air in the hydraulic line can be a pretty common problem.

I have 4 CBX's '79-2, '81 Turbo, & '82. If you are using stock forks and not a real agressive rider, the ATF fluid works just fine. If you are using performance forks, have other internal modifications, or prefer the twisties, you can experiment with different weight oils. I believe that ATF is about 10W ...

teamrc17.net/file_download/6/Owners_Manual.pdf

go to this site and u will get the users manual of honda cbx

I have both a CBX 1000 6 Cyl and a CBX 550 F2 and both tanks are Steel ( My bikes are both UK Spec but I dont think Honda changed the tanks for other countries)

I'm thinking that has front brakes. If there is a cable running to hub from handle bars, then yes. Also, look for an arm sticking out from side of center hub that may have had a brake hooked up if no cable from handle bars. Rotating that slightly one way or the other should release brakes, and apply them the other way. If that doesn't work and the linkage (arm) is there for brakes, you may have to pull front wheel and pull it apart to fix.