Top 20 2008 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide Questions & Answers

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The TSSM will not cause these symptoms. I would suggest you start from the beginning of the work you done. If the bike was operating correctly before the work was started, then for sure you have done something incorrectly. Check all fuses as is one of these is blown due to incorrect wiring, then the supply to the clock/tack could be compromised.

Most likely some wire in harness is worn and grounding when you hit the bump, check harness under tank first, lots of pressure there pressing wires against frame. Especially if you have had the plastics off or the tank off recently...

Axle nuts: Front 60-65 ft-lbs 81-88 Nm Rear 95-105 ft-lbs 129-142 Nm

Kinda sounds like ignition mod. is screwed

If you have over 15000 miles I would change the spark plugs and clean the air breather for starters to see if that will help.

sounds like a relay switch problem

Rear Oxygen Sensor High (rich) Before trying to fix it, first clear the error code and see if it comes back, it MIGHT be a historic code that came and went away in the past. If to DOES come back, then it is a current code. It COULD be a bad 02 sensor or even the wiring.

Engine oil drain plug is at the front of the oil pan on the left side of the bike. It is a 5/8 inch hex plug with an oring.

Is the bike in gear with the jiffy stand down? Safety circuit will stop bike from starting. Also, is the run switch turned on (the one on the right hand handlebar switch)? Have you any error codes in the speedometer diagnostics? The start switch on the bars do fail so could be that. Listen for a click from the start relay under the side cover while pressing the start switch. No click could mean faulty start switch. If you here a click, then check for 12 volts at the small terminal on the starter solinoid. If missing, starter relay may be at fault. If present, the starter solinoid is faulty. Listen for the fuel pump running after turning on run switch. Pump should run for a few seconds and then stop. If pump not running, then run switch may be at fault.

bad battery..

Recommended Suspension Air Pressure: FLHX, FLTRX, FLHR/C SHOCK LOAD TOTAL WEIGHT PRESSURE LB. KGPSI kPa Solo rider up to 150 up to 680 0 150-200 68-91 0-10 0-69 200-250 91-113 10-20 69-138 250-300 113-136 20-30 138-206 over 300over 136 30-50 206-345 Solo rider with capacity luggage of 40 lbs (18 kg) up to 150 up to 68 10-20 69-138 150-200 68-91 20-30 138-206 200-250 91-113 30-40 206-276 250-300 113-136 40-50 276-345 over 300 over 136 50 345 Rider plus passenger ALL ALL 40-50 276-345 Maximum GVWR ALL ALL 50 PSI 345 kPa If Tour-Pak is installed, add 5-10 psi (34-69 kPa) to shock pressure. Do not exceed 50 psi (345 kPa) suspension pressure.

What gap??????? Spark plug gap?????????????? Check electrode gap with a wire-type feeler gauge. Bend the outside of the electrode so that only a slight drag is felt on the gauge as it passes between the electrodes. The proper gap measurement is 0.038-0.043 in. (0.97-1.09 mm).

sounds like the abs sensor is out of adjustment or the wire has came loose from sensor

Does the start relay click, if not the problem is somewhere before the relay, in the fuse block, start/run switch or the starter switch. If it clicks all is okay up to that point and so the problem is somewhere between the relay and the solenoid if the solenoid then does not also click, or in the solenoid itself. If the solenoid rattles you likely have a discharged, weak or no god battery or corroded battery posts and terminals or solenoid stud. If the solenoid gives a click but the starter drive does not engage the drive may be defective and if the motor spins but does not engage you have a starer drive problem. If the starter engages but does not turn the engine over you may also have a weak battery, poor connection or poor ground or mechanical problems. DO a voltage drop test if you can. First do a voltage reading on the battery and note what it is. Using a voltmeter attach the red meter lead to the most positive part of the circuit, which would be the positive post of the battery and attach the black meter lead to the final destination or component in the circuit (if testing a starter circuit this would be the terminal on the starter, not the solenoid). THEN try to activate the starter and observe the meter reading. The meter will read the voltage dropped or the difference in potential between the source and the destination. An ideal circuit voltage drop reading would be 1 volt or less. If there is an open in the circuit (i.e. NO electricity is reaching the terminal) the voltmeter should read source voltage volts which means all the voltage was dropped. A normal good starter circuit should not show more than a one volt drop. If more than 1 volt is dropped there is a problem somewhere in the circuitry before the starter terminal. In this case leaving the red voltmeter lead on the battery positive post, move the negative voltmeter lead to the solenoid stud where the battery cable attaches and activate the starter circuit again. If the voltage reading is now 1 volt or less clean, repair, tighten the starter solenoid to starter terminal stud connections and test again and if no change clean/repair the internal solenoid contacts or replace the solenoid with a new/good one. If there is still a voltage drop greater than 1 volt move the negative voltmeter lead from the solenoid terminal stud to the actual battery cable terminal end at the solenoid terminal stud and again activate the starter circuit. If there is a 1 volt or less reading the battery cable terminal end and/or solenoid terminal stud and/or the connection between the two is faulty, loose, corroded or etc. Clean and tighten and retest. If there is still more than a 1 volt reading on the voltmeter the problem is a loose or corroded or otherwise bad connection between the battery cable terminal end and the battery positive post or the battery cable itself is bad. Clean and tighten the battery cable terminal and battery positive post and test again. If there is still more than a one volt reading on the voltmeter the battery cable is bad and will need to be replaced. If there is less than a 1 volt reading when the test is done at the starter terminal the circuit up to that point is good so the next step will be to do a negative or ground circuit voltage drop test by connecting the negative or black voltmeter lead to the most negative point which is normally the negative battery post (or the closest thing thereto if, like some Sportsters, the battery post is hard or impossible to get to) and then connect the positive or red voltmeter lead to the starter mounting studs. Then activate the starter circuit again and if the voltage reading is greater than 1 volt clean the battery negative cable ends and battery post and negative cable to motorcycle frame or other grounding point, tighten same and similarly the starter mounting points and studs because there is a problem with the starter ground (could be looseness, corrosion, powder coat/paint problems etc). If the voltage reading is 1 volt or less than 1 volt in this test the ground circuit is okay and it will be necessary to perform a starter current draw test on the vehicle (and/or a starter current free draw test on the bench). If the results are within the specifications for the starter in these tests remove the spark plugs, raise the rear wheel so it can spin unimpeded, put the transmission in 5th gear and rotate the rear wheel to check for engine, transmission, primary and/or crankshaft resistance/bind. If the results are not within the amperage specifications for the particular starter replace or repair the starter motor to bring within the system amperage specifications.

I understand that they are recalling 2013's and 2014's due to similar issues. Seeing how your bike is under warranty take it back to the dealer and have them look at it.

Check for spark, check for fuel, is where one starts , if the starter turns the engine over. First check to make sure that emergency shut off switch is in the run position.

To remove a 2008 touring starter FIRST remove the seat disconnect and remove the battery negative cable (black) from battery negative (-) terminal, remove the starter front and rear mounting screws with captive washers, remove the Keps nut from the stud of the bracket tab and remove the exhaust support bracket, pull back the rubber boot and remove the hex nut from the battery Post, remove the battery positive and the main power cable ring terminals, remove the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, remove the engine oil filler cap/dipstick and cover the fill spout opening with a clean shop cloth or towel to keep out foreign objects/material, to facilitate starter removal, if necessary, remove the two worm drive clamps to release the heat shield from the rear header pipe, remove the starter from the motorcycle carefully sliding it out through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover exercising caution to avoid losing the two ring dowels that are somewhat loosely installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange. To install a 2008 touring starter FIRST verify that the two ring dowels are installed in the primary chaincase (or starter) flange, lubricate the o-ring on the starter and lubricate the bore of the primary chaincase with a light film of clean primary chaincase lubricant, carefully slide the starter in through the space between the rear exhaust header pipe and the side cover and with the starter solenoid connector at the front, move the starter into its installed position, remove the shop cloth or towel covering the oil fill spout and install the engine oil filler cap/dipstick at the top of the transmission case, install the slot of the exhaust support bracket onto the stud of the bracket tab aligning the other holes with those in the starter flange, start the Keps nut onto the stud, engage the hole in the exhaust support bracket, install the starter front mounting screw with captive washer, install the starter rear mounting screw with its captive washer and alternatively tighten the starter front and rear mounting screws to 25-27 ft-lbs (33.9-36.6 Nm), tighten the Keps nut on the stud of the bracket tab to 12-15 ft lbs(16.3-20.3 Nm), install the main power and battery positive cable ring terminals onto the battery positive post, install the hex nut and tighten it to 70-90 inlbs(7.9-10.2 Nm), pull down the rubber boot over the terminal connections, install the starter solenoid connector at the front of the starter, if removed, install the three worm drive clamps to secure the heat shield to rear header pipe, tighten the clamp screws to 20-40 inlbs(2.3-4.5 Nm), insert the bolt through the battery negative cable (black) into the threaded hole of the battery negative (-) terminal and tighten the bolt to 60-96 in-lbs (6.8-10.9 Nm) and reinstall the seat.

You can and should periodically change or have changed the transmission, primary and engine oils and engine oil filter. because over time and use all of these oils break down and become contaminated etc.

3 to 8 pounds