20 Most Recent 2001 BMW R 1100 RT (ABS) Questions & Answers

use the key to unlock the seat and hold it in the unlock position while pulling up on the back of the seat

No, they cannot be overhauled, they are sealed units. The best solution is to get a second hand unit.
But you can also get rid of the ABS by removing the unit and running new stainless steel braided brake lines like
http://www.spieglerusa.com/brakes/cycle-brake-line-kits.html
This will cost you less than $250 for the lines plus 6 hours of labor at your local shop - or you could do it yourself.

Make sure the battery is in good working order , low voltage can trigger the ABS warning light. It needs 14.2 volts steady

Email the guys at http://www.informationzoo.com/Friendster.html. They helped me with mines.

Check the gap on both wheel ABS sensors and check your wires to your sensors to see if you may have pinched one.

If you have a stuck float valve, you could end up with your bike sitting in a puddle of fuel.
For safety's sake, you can turn it off.

You have likely moved the ABS sensors when you removed the brake caliper - check that they are sitting in their housing correctly.
The other cause of ABS fault lights on R11's is a low battery, funnily enough - the ABS system is very touchy about it's voltage.
If you think that your battery could be the cause it's an easy check-out - charge it overnight on a battey charger and check the operation in the morning.
Lots of info on http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/ABS-II_low_voltage_modification/index.shtml

In the gearbox

eBay

wrong music format

remove the starter motor cover to access the battery to starter motor cable (positive) and use anywhere on the frame for the negatve.

Water has got to something electrical, try spraying damp start on all exposed connectors also any electrical component the water may have got onto or into.

See this for full instructions, http://www.wikihow.com/Change-the-Oil-and-Filter-on-an-R11xxrt-%28oilhead%29

Possible failing crank position sensor

First of all change the oil and filter and use a heavier grade. If it still uses oil and is black, then you might need a rebuild.

sounds like the actual kill switch is faulty, many people use this to switch the bike off before turning key off DONT this is an emergency switch and is not built for constant operation.it is possible to test this but as you say you have limited knowledge. but here goes follow the wiring to see if there is a connector, there should only be two wires to the kill switch, at the connector disconnect it and the two wires coming from the bike up to the kill switch ,the incoming wires to the connector can be linked together, use another piece of wire pushed into the connectors, this should act as thought your kill switch is turned on. you should get the buzzing of the fuel pump back and be able to start the bike normally. changing the kill switch is not too hard but envolves dismantling the right hand control and as i donot know what you mechanical expertise are i will not lead you into this incase it is above your station so to speak. start with the basics of testing the kill switch.

No, I don't think it would be possible. the engine casings are different as well as the transmission housings.

The gear indicator is via a switch or pot on the transmission depending on year etc.

You would be money ahead to sell your 1100RT and upgrade to an 1150 or better still a 1200RT. There are lots of 1150RT's on the used market for sale at reasonable prices.

Good Luck!

Hi, believe me its quite a job to do this so follow the instructions below they are copied from the workshop manual some time back so just take your time and you should have no problems.
How ever their has been alot of problems with the standard battery that comes with this bike, you could try giving it a charge and see how you get on but the problem with these is they tend to go flat real easy so if you have any more problems with the battery just take your bike to your nearest bike spares shop and ask them for a high power battery for your bike, if they dont stock one to fit then they can order you one in im not sure of the exact name bit im sure they do a high power gel battery that keeps its charge longer and should stop it from going flat.
Its best to discuss this with your bike spares shop as they would have a better idea than i would on the correct type of battery just make sure you ask for a high power one as yours keeps going flat.


First remove the left mirror(just pull out on it.
then remove the two wires on it that power the signal.
remove both seats.
An allen wrnch will pull off the 10 to 12 screws on your left side farings, you will also have to take the cover off of your pull out handle that helps you get it on the centerstand. That comes off easily by turning the two screws at the top of it 45 degrees(or until you feel it loosen). now, go to the airbox right under the drivers seat, and remove the two phillips head screws on the top of it. then you see the plastic pipe that runs to it from the left side of the engine, at the front of it there is an allen screw (silver) that holds it in place. Remove it. now you need to lift the top cover of the airbox off, and where the pipe connects to it, lift it out of the slot and remove. Nows the tricky part. the battery is tucked in the pretty tight , so wiggle it out of the left side of your bike. It will come out, just pull. Now you will have the battery hanging off the left side of the bike- thats as far as she goes-just unhook the terminals.

I hope that after going through all that you have found your battery, they couldnt make it any harder could they, i remember when the battery was just under the seat, but no bmw like to make you work to do this, in other words they prefer you to pay the main dealers to do this for you.

Any way let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok