2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail Classic - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Ultra classic spark plug gap 1998

Have you checked all your grounds sometimes you a loose ground will not or will lose connection on the ignition switch you should have two hot coming in and then when you turn it on and energizes the switch as long as you still have battery voltage there when you hit the start button you should be fine but start with your grounds for

0.9mm and possibly about 3.5-4.0L w/ filter change

It's located behind breaker box you have to lay on ground and their are 2 10 mm bolts that hold on black fender in front of rear tire remove those and lift up the top just hooks on and slide all the way down following contour of tire and then you can see inside ant their will be a little box with two studs and wires on each post that is your 30 amp breaker

Hi, Gerald, I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision. 1. Bearings---SCREECH---WHINE2. Belts---CHIRP3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ4. Cam Chains---CLICK5. Clutches---CHATTER---GRIND6. Cylinders---PING7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE8. Fenders---SCRAPE9. Flasher Unit---BEEPS10. Fronk Forks---PLUNK11. Fuel pumps---WHIRR12. Gears---WHINE13. Head Gasket---HISS14. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP15. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING16. Kick Starter---GRINDS17. Pistons---SLAP18. Power Valves---CLINK---RATTLE19. Radiators---GURGLE20. Rear Chains---RATTLE21. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK22. Relays---CLICK---BUZZ23. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK24. Shaft Drives---WHIRR25. Shifting Trans---CLUNK26. Solid Lifters---TICK27. Speedometers---=BUZZ28. Starters---CLICK29. Starter Clutch---GRIND---WHIRR30. Warning Lights---BEEPFor more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.http://www.mediafire.com/file/65o6mbkdq5ty8ke/99_to_05_Harley_Softail_Service_Manual.pdf/filehttps://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmchttps://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/service/document/6300https://www.6ya.com/

Duplicate question already answered

The Enricher is only there for starting the bike as it makes the fuel mixture too rich. Over use causes carbon deposits to build up and this can cause more problems. The Petcock is a 'Screw On' fitting. First disconnect or remove the battery to prevent any accidental sparks. **NOTE** Do this outside or in a very well ventilated area. Cover the side of the COLD engine with a plastic sheet to protect from splashes of fuel. Next drain the fuel tank. ALWAYS make sure the gas can you fill into is bigger than you need to prevent overspill. Use an extra long piece of fuel line so you can stand the gas can on the floor as it might take a while to empty. Set the petcock to Reserve as it feeds from lower in the tank. Remove the filler cap and put it to one side until you are finished fitting the new part. (Faster flow when your emptying and better ventilation when working). An extra option is to put some masking tape on the underside of the tank to prevent scratching the paint. It might be easier to disconnect any fuel line at the petcock before removing it. Using a suitable wrench unscrew the nut between the tank and the top of the petcock. It should twist towards the front of the bike. **NOTE** Watch for any fuel dripping from the hole as you slide the petcock down and out. Refitting.. Before fitting unscrew the mounting nut on the new petcock so it spins freely. This allows it to grab more threads when fitted giving a better fuel tight fit. Clean the threads and hole on the tank with a rag. (Safely dispose of the rag when finished). Set the new tap to the OFF position. Carefully slide the filter body into the tank so you don't damage the filter mesh. Position the tap to the correct angle, (it doesn't have to be exact). With you fingers push the petcock firmly into position and wind the nut into place until it is finger tight. Then using a suitable wrench turn the nut until it is firmly tight. DO NOT over tighten the nut. This will strip the threads and leak fuel all over you and the engine. Connect your fuel lines and fill the tank with about half a litre of fuel and open the petcock to the Reserve position. This is to test for any obvious leaks. Refill the tank to full, refit the fuel cap, and recheck all your pipes and connections. If you had any drips or spills Clean them up properly. Reconnect the battery and take you bike out for a run getting her up to working temperature. On your return recheck all your pipes and connections. Job done.

Tom, install the anti rattle spring on the rear caliper, Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." Rear Brake Pad Install Harley Davidson Forums http://www.harley-davidson.com/app-content/service/isheets/-J03708.PDF http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Media/downloads/Service/isheets/-J01727.pdf

2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail Classic Anon, Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck "I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." Rear Brake Pad Install Harley Davidson Forums http://www.harley-davidson.com/app-content/service/isheets/-J03708.PDF http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Media/downloads/Service/isheets/-J01727.pdf

for more information about your issue, please visit the websites below, and for specific information or questions, please feel free to contact me [email protected] http://www.motorpartstore.com. good luck and have a nice day.

hi! please visit the website below. If you need more information about a specific electrical issue you can reach me at [email protected]. http://www.motorpartstore.com. good luck and have a nice day.

Stator Repair - 4 of 9 - Removing Old Stator - YouTube

? 2:43 www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7_TATp7wLY Sep 6, 2009 - Uploaded by VTwinOnline This is one of several short videos demonstrating removal and installation of a new stator our 1995 Harley ...

hi,

Sooner or later, every bike will need a new chain and sprockets. Once a chain begins to wear, its pitch changes and wears the sprocket teeth. Then the chain begins to wear even faster. Then it's time for a new chain, and a new pair of sprockets. The rear wheel on my motorcycle had been misaligned (I had used the inaccurate etched indicators on the swingarm-rather than a ruler against the sprocket-to set wheel alignment) and ridden hard through a gritty, salty winter. The rear sprocket was in rough shape, and the chain was making lots of popping sounds as the bike went down the road. Changing a chain is a fairly basic job that requires a chain breaker / riveting tool and whatever is needed to remove the rear wheel and sprockets. It's nice to have a blow torch and a torque wrench on hand for this job, too. The ingenious Terra-X chain tool is made in Australia out of tool steel, and weighs just 150 grams. A big hollow bolt threads into the bigger of the two holes, and is used when pressing outer plates onto new master links. A smaller bolt with a pin can thread into the hollow bolt, and is used to push link pins out of old chains or to peen new master link pins by pushing them against a grub screw threaded into the steel body's other hole. That little grub screw with a rounded steel end screws into the smaller hole of the chain breaker. It fits into and peens the hole of the new master link. When changing a chain, the first step is to loosen the bolts on the front sprocket. It's good to get those loose while the chain is still on the bike, partly to avoid putting undue stress on the transmission, and partly to avoid getting deep into the job and finding that the front sprocket bolts are stuck. In this case, the small allen bolts needed a bit of heat to come undone. After the bolts are loose, it's time to break the chain. With the Terra-X chain tool, you remove the small grub screw and use the small bolt with the pin to push out one of the chain's pins. No grunting or swearing required. Then comes sprocket replacement. Six nuts on the rear sprocket, the two bolts on the front sprocket, and that step is done. I had a torque wrench handy, so I could get the torque values just right when putting everything back together. The next step is the big one: installing the master link that joins the ends of the new chain together. The master link comes with a little bag with some X-Rings, a master link, and some sticky tan lube. Smear the lube on the pins and inside the X-Rings, then begin to assemble the master link around the two ends of the chain, making sure to get the X-Rings in the right spots. Pressing the outer plate onto the master link is the hardest part of the job. I removed the pin bolt from the Terra-X tool and used the hollow bolt to push the outer plate onto the master link's pins. It took a few tries, but eventually I got it in the correct position. After the sprockets are on and the master link is in position, the master link's pins need to be peened. With the Terra-X, the pin bolt pushes the master link pin against the grub screw's steel ball, and flares the pin. It takes a lot of effort-mostly because it's not easy to get a lot of leverage on tools when they're underneath a motorcycle. Position the wheel for proper chain tension, torque everything to the correct specs, and you're back on the road. The new chain is smooth, nearly silent, and ready for thousands of miles of high-speed running.

replace starter 1994 Harley Davidson Bing Videos

from what I am reading ,to remove the cam covers(rocker covers) on your bike will mean the removal of the engine mounts to allow for enough room to get them off

Absolutely! Now for a BETTER ANSWER, ask an ACTUAL QUESTION, providing greater detail as to the issue you are encountering. The only thing unique about removing and replacing the OEM carburetor on the bike is the Bendix tool you will need to adjust the metering, which can be found on the Internet. Otherwise, it is a straightforward and fairly simple thing, and most after-market carburetors such as the S&S can be ordered with proper jetting and metering for the engine! Let me know is anything specific you need help with. I've done a couple of carb updates on that era of Harley, so I may be able to provide some specific advice for you..

Disconnect wiring. Remove ICM rrom the front of the fender , remove the 4 bolts holding the fender supports and remove the fender, with supports, from the frame

Dead battery, main circuit breaker is automatic resetting so it probably isn't that. Check battery connections for corrosion.

The speed sensor is a "Hall Effect" sensor. It can be tested for continuity with an ohm meter but the results are not always reliable. the only way I know to test the sensor in a bike is to remove it and see if it responds to the proximity of a metal object with an increase in voltage. This may not be a reliable test either unless you know the voltage at which it activates the speedometer sensor circuitry. Just replace it.

If the motor runs long enough to get hot,, check for bad coil.