20 Most Recent 1993 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy - Page 8 Questions & Answers

This job is of such that I cannot describe in complete detail everything that needs to be done. I can but it's just too much. I'd strongly suggest that you purchase a service manual. There are some things that you need to know that are best described by the use of a picture.

However, basically what you'll have to do is remove the outer primary cover and all the primary drive inside of it. Remove the exhaust system. Remove the starter and get it out of the way. Go back to the left side of the bike and remove the inner primary cover so you can get to the lever on the shifter pawl shaft. Remove the top cover of the transmission and the shifting mechanism with the shifter forks there. Then, on the right side of the transmission, remove the clutch release mechanism and remove the bolts from the "trapdoor" on the transmission. Pry the trapdoor off the dowels and remove it along with both the mainshaft and the countershaft of the transmission with the gears on them from the transmission housing. Then, you can get the shifter pawl shaft out of the transmission.

This job is really not difficult and there's not a lot of special tools required. There are however some things that you need to know such as the mainshaft nut on the clutch assembly has LEFT HANDED THREADS. You will need a torque wrench that can torque in the left handed direction. The rest is basic stuff but there's a lot of it. It's a very time involved job.

Good Luck
Steve

Is the "Run/Stop" switch in the "run" position? Check to see if you have voltage to the coil. If so, you need to check the coil. Take all the wires loose from the small terminals and use a volt-ohm meter to test the coil. Put the meter's function switch in OHMS, R X 1 scale. Touch one lead to each of the small terminals. The meter should read between 2 and 3 ohms of resistance. If it's much more than that, the coil is probably bad.

Good luck
steve

There are several places that the oil could be coming from. And, it could be either engine oil, primary lube, or transmission lube.

First, check for a leak at the cylinder base on the rear cylinder. I've seen that area leak badly enough to make it look like the primary is leaking.

The primary could be leaking from the seal that mainsaft runs through or the starter jackshaft seal.

The transmission could be leaking from the large final drive gear, or the front belt pulley could have become worn allowing the quad seal behind the pulley spacer to leak.

To repair these leaks is not difficult but you need a few special tools. Especially if your going to remove the front belt pulley. You need a device to hold the pulley while you put the 150 foot pounds of torque on it with the special socket you'll need for the nut. You'll also need a torque wrench that will torque in the reverse direction since the threads are left handed.

If you wish to tackle this job yourself, please repost and I'll give you step by step instructions but I would suggest you purchase a service manual for a job of this size and nature. A picture is sometimes worth a thousand words.

Good Luck
Steve

Corbin makes passenger seats for the bike too. Personally, I think the better value is a Mustang seat, they're high quality and less expensive. La Pera makes seats as well. There are lots of choices out there and most makers have a website. Go to
http://www.customchrome.net/icatalog/spreads.aspx?Page=265 and take a look at some seats, then go the manufacturer's website. I'm sure you can find something you like.

Good Luck
steve

If you're talking about the trip reset knob, it should have a small screw inside of it holding it on.

Good Luck
Steve

It's underneath the bike. Find your rear brake master cylinder near the right footboard. It's got a metal line coming out of it. Follow this metal line back and you'll find a "Tee" in the line. In the tee will be a thing with some wires connected to it. This is the rear brake pressure switch. Simply unscrew it and screw another one in. Do not depress the brake pedal with the switch screwed out of the tee and don't wait a long time before screwing the new one in.

Good Luck
Steve

there should be a small screw inside the knob. Sometimes the hole get plugged up with wax or something. Remove the screw and pull the knob off. If the knob breaks, you can get another one through either the Harley shop or any aftermarket shop.

Good luck
Steve

could be the fuse.

About a quart. Stand the bike straight up and remove the derby cover. Fill to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill or you'll be unable to find neutral with the engine running.

Good Luck
Steve

Ok, right out of the book.

Equipment: fully charged battery, complete working distributor, spark plug, jumper wires, and coil with plug wires to be tested. With the jumper wires, connect the battery positive (+) terminal to the coil forward terminal, connect the coil's rear terminal to the breaker's terminal and connect the battery negative (-) terminal to the breaker base (turn the breaker shaft to open the points to prevent burning the points). Attach a spark plug to one of the plug wires and hold the other plug wire against the plug's metal base. Spin the distributor shaft by hand. If all is well, the the plug will fire stongly. If it doesn not fire, each plug wire will need to be tested separately. Run an additional jumper from the coil body to the plug's metal base. Connect the plug to one wire, spin the timer shaft, watch for fire. Switch to the other plug wire and test. Which ever wire does not fire, remove it and clean it at the bottom or replace it, Clear the wire's coil hole of obstructions (possibly tar is filling the bottom), reseat it and retest it.

Good luck
Steve

This is strange. I've seen clutches drag and I've seen them slip but never both. If I had to take a guess, and that's exactly what this is, I'd guess that it was either something with the clutch cable or the release mechanism on the right side of the tranny. Evo clutches are very good clutches as compared to the earlier ones.

Good Luck
Steve

the thottle slide can be sticking, a rich mizture gives similar symtoms

Ever since the introduction of the Evolution engine design in 1984/85, the primaries have been wet type primaries. The "dry" primary went out of existance with the old 'Shovelhead' engine.

If your engine has been sitting for a long period of time, your engine is probably "oil sumped". Since the oil tank is located higher on the frame than the engine, if the bike sits for a long period of time, oil will seep past the oil check ball and accumilate in the bottom end of the engine. I've seen the oil tank empty into the bottom end.

Now, the engine on your 93 model is what we call a case breather. The engine's crankcase breaker is located on the engine's cases down low. Later models are called "head breathers" in that the crankcase breathers are located in the rocker boxes, up high. So, even though the oil sumps on the later engine the oil doesn't go into the breather AS BADLY as the earlier models but it still gets in there.

Look on the back of the air breather assembly. There should be a pipe coming from the front of the engine on the timing gear cover on the right side of the engine going to the back of the air cleaner. Temporarily disconnect this pipe. Start the engine and allow it to run for a few minutes. Once the oil stops coming out of the pipe, reconnect it and disassemble the air cleaner. Clean the air cleaner. If the paper air filter is saturated, replace it. Reassemble the air cleaner assembly.

Now, Check the oil. Do not add oil to the engine as long as the oil is visible on the dipstick. Start the engine ride until the engine warms up. Now, with the engine warm, check the oil. The upper line is "Full Hot" while the lower line is "Full Cold". Set the oil level halfway between the lines. Do not overfill. If the bike is going to be sittting for a while, either drain the oil tank or start the engine about once a week and let it run for a few minutes. Do not allow it to overheat.

Good Luck.
Steve

There are places that can repair the speedometer but they're usually more expensive than just purchasing an new one. They specialze in repair of the older antique speedometers.

You have a shorted cell in the battery. Go buy a new battery. When you're trying to start the bike, it's doing so on 10 volts or less. When the voltage drops, the amperage goes sky high. That's why the battery, the cables, and the starter motor are heating up.
Good Luck
Steve

Ok, this is a lot better. I used to tell people that I couldn't fix a motorcycle over the phone and here I am trying to do it on a computer. My how times have changed.

Now, the seal that you're talking about is the engine sprocket shaft seal. I may not have been in backwards since I don't know what way it was in the case. If you look at a seal, the lip is pointed in one direction. The seal should be installed with the lip pointed AGAINST the oil flow, in this case towards the inside of the engine.

Another thing that most people make a mistake one when installing a new seal is that they put it up dry. By dry, I mean that they do not lubricate the lip of the seal, not the outside diameter. The reason, when the engine starts up, it goes to 1000-1500 RPM almost instantly. The result is friction burns the lip of the new seal up before oil has a chance to get to it.

Next, the spacer that goes onto the sprocket shaft should have had a larger diameter on one end of it. This larger diameter goes on the backside of the seal against the bearing in the case. This helps keep the oil away from the seal. Also, it helps to put a bead of RTV around the sprocket shaft where it comes out of the spacer. This prevents oil that might run down between the shaft and the seal from leaking out.

This is the best that I can tell you without actually seeing your setup. Someone may have changed the spacer with one that came with the belt drive kit and it's allowing the oil to leak. If you would like an "exploded" view of how your bottom end is assembled, send me an e-mail at wd4ity @ bellsouth.net. I'll scan the picture in a service manual and send it to you.

Good Luck
Steve Bentley

Tyhe F side id the Field coil. Follow whatever directions you have for the control box. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_5bac37c3cb991fdb

check the connections in the switch. maybe a cable is broken, maybe the ground have some rust

Low battery or dirty wire (loose) connections.Carge or replace battery clean or replace dammaged wire cables and their end connectors.