You have do dissasamble it first, it is actualy made of 2 pieces, hold together by screws.
You put the big piece into place first, then the smaller one, than the screws.
Try to look in the "parts list" pds. There is a section about the carburators, that should help. If you don`t find the pdf (it should be on the site you downloaded the Hayness manual), send me a mail to [email protected]
You either have a blown main fuse usually located by the starter solenoid. Follow the positive battery cable to the starter solenoid and locate the main fuse . See if it is blown and replace it if necessary. The other possibility is that the electrical contacts in the base of the ignition switch are dirty and no longer making a connection when the key is turned on. Take the contact base off of the bottom of the switch, clean the contacts, and put it back together noting where all the little pieces go and being careful not to lose any. If the switch is not repairable replace it with a new one.
Nice bike. Change the fluids, pour a tablespoonfull of cycle oil in each pot through the spark plug holes and leave at least overnight. That will lubricate the cylinder bores. If it starts then decide whether to take the top off. Good luck. My 1965 Harley IronHead XLCH was not run for 24years and after the above attention, spluttered into life.
No, their would be no reason to change the piston and rings first up, unless you know that they are worn from the previous owner, Get the bike up and running first and go from their, will be a good chance the piston and rings will be fine.
Change the oil first up as their is a good chance condensation has occurred and put water in to the oil. Drain the fuel from both the tank and carburettor, as this would have gone stale. Change battery or jump start if required.
suspect. With the spark plugs out, crank the engine over a few times. (ensure oil level correct) If it winds over all good, put a few drops off oil in the cylinders. This will help build compression. Re-fit spark plugs, Full choke and give it a shot. Away it should go! Aerostart or ether may come in handy.
Hi there. To upgrade your old rear shock is a good idea, however very expensive. Makers like Koni, and Ohlins, will have a rear shock to fit your bike, but unless your willing to part with about $1000, then considermy second solution. Have your old rear shock re built, or re furbished, by a qualified suspension mechanic, for a fraction of the cost. It is also possible to customise, and taylor your old shocky to suit you. Example,shorten the spring?, add a spacer to stiffen it up a bit, less oil, or more oil? I would look into a rebuild first, unless, like i say, you are prepared to spend about $1000 plus. Anything you choose, will definately enhance your bike. Good luck
JB will do it temporarly. Make shure the buyer know of the problem.you can it get it done by an aluminum welder for cheap. friend had it done for like 20 bucks at a local car shop with an experienced aluminum welder. seems like thatw s a deal as i was estimated at 50 for a job. but better then a 600 dollar casing, or putting jb on it
My old XT 600 had a thicker side, and a flat side. If you put it on backwards it sits too close to the engine. (causing play)
Do you still have your old sprocket to compare the thickness?
Is there any fuel in the cylinders when you take out the spark plugs? If so the fuel system is dumping in too much fuel into the engine. Sunk floats in the carburetor will cause that.
remove seat and side panels to gain access to everything. unbolt the airbox there should be three or four bolts and atleast one is going to be hidden. loosen clamps on air boots from airbox to carbs and slide back air box. it might only move an inch or two but that is all you need. unhook everthing on carbs and loosen clamps on intake boots. slide and wiggle back on carbs and you should have enough room.
Usually directly under the the petrol tank but if you cant see it then look for a hose from carbi and follow it back to the the petrol tank and the fuel tap should be somewhere along the fuel line as you need to turn fuel on or off to the carbi
It is usually nice and accessible so you can easily turn fuel on, off or to reserve tank if you have one?
what bike is it ?
The first thing tp try is a simple pressure wash of the calipers just in case a little dirt is the cause. Wheel lock up surprisingly is normally caused by dirt in the master cylinder. There is a large hole in the master cylinder that feeds the brake piston in the master cylinder. Right next to large feeder hole, is a pin hole that is the brake fluid return passageway. If the pin hole becomes plugged with dirt or rust the front wheel will drag or even lock up. A simple cleaning of the master cylinder will often fix the lock up problem. If the machine is older consider replacing all of the rubber parts and refilling the system with fresh DOT 3/4 brake fluid.
