20 Most Recent 1987 kawasaki GPz 1000 RX Questions & Answers

There's a Haynes manual for this bike - see for example here http://www.d*mon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/workshop-manuals/haynes-workshop-manual-kawasaki-gpz900r-gpz1000rx-zx10-zzr1100 it won't be free. tO GET THE LINK INSERT E WHERE YOU SEE A * Is this ebook in English ? http://asaha.com/ebook/ANjM3MQ--/Kawasaki-GPZ1000RX-Complementary-Service-Manual-for-GPZ900R.html# or try this perhaps http://awmotorcycleparts.co.uk/workshop-manual-kawasaki-gpz900-gpz1000rx-zx10-zzr1100-zx11-1983-1997 I hope these are helpful. You should say where you are for (possibly) more helpful information. I'm sorry, I could not find a free one. 23.December.2014

Take off wheel...remove cush drive on sprocket side...prise the oil seal out on the brake side and you'll see a circlip...remove this and drift bearings out. Drift new ones in with a socket or bit of tubing that is the same size as the bearing outer so as not to damage the bearings...re-fit circlip.

Got to be a carb needs cleening or spark plug or ht lead breaking down.

AIR ESCAPING FROM ENGINE CHECK AIR FILTER AND ENGINE TRY TO FEEL A PUSH/PULL FEELING FOR CRACKS

hey bud, i know this might be a bit late but sounds like the starter chain tensioner has failed and the gears have vbeen stripped. dont try to start thebike. take the clutch casing off, and that chain and sprocket assembly infront of u is the offending part. google a guy called andy bennett for a manual chain tensioner. replace thes parts with zzr1100 parts as they are stronger. once youve researched and done all that. take the sump off and give it a bloody good clean. then re-assemble and away u go. u can do all this without taking the engine out the chassis. exhaust off, oil cooler off, radiator off. hope this helps. feel free to cantact me. kiltednutter (facebook)

RdDecals.com in Canada has complete sets or individual sticker pairs including pinstripes for the US Ninja version, but not the GPZ. So, with one of these kits, you could get all of the right stickers except the GPZ (comes with Ninja) stickers on the upper cowl, and the 1000RX for the belly pan (comes with 1000R). They have stickers for other older Kawasaki's as well.

Try a product called PET-SEAL it is used in the vintage bike restoration game, Remove tap and sender unit ,Clean Tank thoroughly running water through the tank for a couple of hours, then dry the tank thoroughly ( A hair dryer is very good for this )
It is best to leave the tank in a warm place overnight to make sure it is properly dry. seal up the tap and sender holes. Take the PET -SEAL cans and mix together One is the hardener. Pour the PET-SEAL into the tank, put cling film over the filler cap and close, then swish the tank round, upside down, right way up , swish the PET-SEAL liquid all over the inside of the tank, keep swishing until the liquid goes off and starts to dry (Hard work as it is a heavy tank ). Leave the tank for 24 - 48 hours, build back up with the tap and sender unit. Fill with fuel and Bobs your Uncle.

I have used it an Two bikes and it does work.

Sounds like there is a tooth or several from the gears floating about somewhere in the engine/gearbox.
A strip down job I would say.

HI, FAIRLY SURE IT IS LOCATED UNDER THE ENGINE UNDER A CIRCULAR FINNED COVER, IF IT IS A PAPER ELEMENT.

to split a crankshaft usually requires a motor engineering shop, who will press it apart and reassemble and balance it.
You dont mean split the crankcase?

if you have gas in the oil then your floats (one or more) in your cabs are stuck.Your carbs need cleaned. After cleaning make sure floats move freely. Definatly change the oil. If you dont change oil you could dammage the crank bearings.

No but there is not much between them if i remeber right the cam lobes are slightly bigger which would give you more air and fuel which maybe be detrimental. check cam lobe sizes in the haynes manual for 900 and 1000 and compare

This might sound too obvious, and you've probably already tried it, but have you stripped and cleaned the carbs yet? could be worth a go, or you could try draining and balancing them first.

i would do the same as the other post has said, but i would use the old seal to drive the new seal in with a rubber mallet that way you cant damage the fork.

to remove the damper rod you have to remove the allen bolt underneath the bottom of the fork leg. if you find this just turns try using a wooden broom shank to hold it as you undo the bolt.its best to undo the bolt 1st before you strip the fork springs out. hope this helps

Running well at high revs would indicate that all the fuel and air it needs are getting to the engine and you also have a good spark. Probably no problem with air and fuel filter ( if fitted) or sparkplugs.

Running hot, and bad idling are signs of a lean air fuel mixture. The engine is probably not getting enough fuel at low revs.

This could be caused by an air leak between the carburettors and the engine. Check that the vacuum line to the fuel tap is properly secured at both ends. It is behind the fuel line at the tap.

Get a a short length of hollow plastic tube and use it like a stethascope - put one end to your ear and move the other end around your carburettor mounts with your engine revs as low as you can get, and listen for any sucking noises that would indicate a leak. Look for cracks in the rubber inlets.

The other possibility is that there is an internal blockage in the idling jets or idling fuel circuit. This is where dirt tends to lodge because the jet dimensions and passageways are very fine - The high speed jets are much bigger and dirt often just passes straight through.

Try a little bit of choke while the engine is warm to see if you get a stronger low speed response. If so that would point to an internal blockage.

buy the manual or find the bolts and remove them all