Top 20 1987 kawasaki GPX 750 R Questions & Answers

behind the battery box

This requires a nanometer,,, if you don't have one(with 4 channels) PLEASE take it to a PROFESSIONAL!!!

try pulling the calipers apart and cleaning them then give them a light rub with 400 grade wet and dry spray components with light machine oil and reassemble

Check to make sure the battery is fully charged and that the fuses are all good. If you push the starter button and the solenoid clicks, the button is good. Take a wire and jump the two posts on the solenoid or touch the two cables together, if your starter works, then you need a new solenoid. If you hold the starter button and tap on the starter with a plastic hammer and the starter works you need new starter brushes. Anything else wrong with the starter and you need to replace the starter assembly , unless the manufacturer sells replacement parts so you can repair the starter. most manufacturers only sell replacement starter brushes.

PLEASE take this to a professional.. you will be glad you did!!

A good quality 10w40 semi-synthetic. Make sure it is designed for motorcycles, car oil contains friction reducers that can make your clutch slip.

If this is not your job, you DON'T. Either you give it to somebody who has the proper tools and equipment, or you buy a new one.

there is two horns left and right side of the oil cooler above the exhaust system hope this helps Brokenarm

hi,this might help,you will have to remove the carbs to do it,but check the float levels in the carbs,it sounds like it is not getting enough fuel when the load goes on,the engine is using more fuel  under load and the carbs  cant keep up,while you have them apart give them a good clean out,make sure all the jets are nice and clean,also have a look at the air filter ,a blocked or dirty air filter will also affect top end or"under load"performance,before i forget,when you had the fuel tap apart did you make sure that the gauze filters on the petcock were nice and clean,if they are just slightly dirty they will also affect performance.if the bike has a vacuum pump on the fuel tap,check that the vacuum line from the pump to the pickup point(normally the intake manifold or a point on the vacuum side of the carbs,ie engine side)is in good condition with no kinks or cracks,if it has a kink in the line it will not create enough vacuum to run the pump,causing poor fuel flow  under load,i have just done a repair on an 89 gsxr 750 slingshot that the owner has spent a fortune on trying to get it right,and it turned out to be a $4.00 kinked vacuum line to the fuel pump...hope this helps...cheers

I dont think kawasaki do paint codes go to a auto paint supplier and get a colour match,if it is not right you usually get a second match for free.or contact a quality motorcycle paint spray company they may have the code sorted from past jobs.

The firing order on your bike is 1,3,4,2. These bikes use what is called a wasted spark system. They fire whenever the piston reaches top dead centre.
That is to say they fire on top dead centre compression as well as top dead centre rock-over( exhaust/inlet ). Each coil has two leads on them.
The left coil goes to number 1 & 4 cylinders.
The right coil goes to number 2 & 3 cylinders.

The GPX 750(like most road bikes) have a resistor type spark plug cap on them that was prone to cause problems.

To test the coils/caps, use a multi-meter to test their secondary resistance.

To do this set the meter to kilo-ohms(1000 ohms), place one meter probe in one plug cap & the other probe in the other plug cap( i.e. 1&4, 2&3 )

The meter should read 10kilo-ohms to 15 kilo-ohms.

If it reads higher than that try un-screwing each cap & test the coils with the caps removed by probing the leads. If the coils(without caps)read about 5 to
10 kilo-ohms, check the caps.
The caps should read 5 kilo-ohms each.
It is very common to find these open-circuited.
Replace any open circuit caps.

I hope this has been of some help.
Otherwise if you can be a little more spacific with your problem I will try to help further.

Regards Andrew Porrelli

It is a piece of sh-t. Buy something newer. Chaz

this engine was used for 2 years, 1991 and 1992, the parts are the same for both years.

You tackled a monster in changing the boots and vac lines. In doing the change the carbs lost the synchronization and balancing needed to start and run properly. You don't want to try the repair yourself. Take it to a dealer and have them do it. If they set the thing on fire it is THEIR problem. If you do it it is YOUR problem. Yeah, it is a somewhat dangerous process since one backfire can light things up when the air filters are not in place. Besides, they have the equipment and know-how to do a proper Sync / balance. Most owners don't. Please rate my answer. Thanks!

Try changing the leads first, then get the coil checked out. I am assuming the plugs are OK.

They are called clip-ons, and there is a company called LSL that makes conversions to handlebars and riser kits. i know StreetfightersByDesign is a dealer, but you can check on Google by searching "LSL handlebar"to find other sites. One word, though, i don't think they are cheap.

Regards,
matt

put in a quart ... check the dip stick. Full? stop. Need more? add some more... DO NOT OVER FILL.

the oil is SAE10W20 and you must put 325 ccm if you change the oil, and if you let it all drain over night 380 ccm (plus or minus 4ccm). After that, mesure the level in each cilinder of the fork. In the left one, you must have 120mm (plus or minus 2mm) of air left in the cilinder, and in the right one, 149 mm (plus or minus 2mm) .
Hope this helps. Try getting a repair manual. You will find all the answers there.
Best regards, Gabyshor.

when you unbolt the cam it should slide out of the chain let the chain fall down the cylinders.. pull the cylinders off, split the casses take the crank out and it should come off

its only a overflow house its only guided the excess fuel to the ground. to prebent droping to your engine