when you unbolt the cam it should slide out of the chain let the chain fall down the cylinders.. pull the cylinders off, split the casses take the crank out and it should come off
the oil is SAE10W20 and you must put 325 ccm if you change the oil, and if you let it all drain over night 380 ccm (plus or minus 4ccm). After that, mesure the level in each cilinder of the fork. In the left one, you must have 120mm (plus or minus 2mm) of air left in the cilinder, and in the right one, 149 mm (plus or minus 2mm) . Hope this helps. Try getting a repair manual. You will find all the answers there. Best regards, Gabyshor.
Sounds like clutch drag. Adjust the cable at the top by the lever, or at the other end by the engine. There should be 3-5mm free play. If its not the cable you may have a more serious problem like warped clutch plates which will need to be replaced.
The clutch is not dis-engaging properly. Cables can stretch a bit. There shou;ld be an adjuster either at the clutch handle or at the transmission. Just take most, not all, of the slack out of the cable.
You should be back to normal now.
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My old XT 600 had a thicker side, and a flat side. If you put it on backwards it sits too close to the engine. (causing play)
Do you still have your old sprocket to compare the thickness?
Is there any fuel in the cylinders when you take out the spark plugs? If so the fuel system is dumping in too much fuel into the engine. Sunk floats in the carburetor will cause that.
remove seat and side panels to gain access to everything. unbolt the airbox there should be three or four bolts and atleast one is going to be hidden. loosen clamps on air boots from airbox to carbs and slide back air box. it might only move an inch or two but that is all you need. unhook everthing on carbs and loosen clamps on intake boots. slide and wiggle back on carbs and you should have enough room.
Usually directly under the the petrol tank but if you cant see it then look for a hose from carbi and follow it back to the the petrol tank and the fuel tap should be somewhere along the fuel line as you need to turn fuel on or off to the carbi
It is usually nice and accessible so you can easily turn fuel on, off or to reserve tank if you have one?
what bike is it ?
The first thing tp try is a simple pressure wash of the calipers just in case a little dirt is the cause. Wheel lock up surprisingly is normally caused by dirt in the master cylinder. There is a large hole in the master cylinder that feeds the brake piston in the master cylinder. Right next to large feeder hole, is a pin hole that is the brake fluid return passageway. If the pin hole becomes plugged with dirt or rust the front wheel will drag or even lock up. A simple cleaning of the master cylinder will often fix the lock up problem. If the machine is older consider replacing all of the rubber parts and refilling the system with fresh DOT 3/4 brake fluid.
Yes, drain the carbs. Also clean the air filter. Get a can of spray starting fluid to assist in getting the engine to start. Chances are the carbs are gummed up from sitting so long. You will probably end up removing the carbs for a thorough cleaning.
Front axle = 80 ft/lb
Front axle clamp bolt = 15 ft/lb
Front axle caliper mounting bolts = 25 ft/lb
Front Wheel Removal:
1. While the bike is still on the rear stand (but before putting it on
the front stand), loosen the front axle clamp bolt with a 6mm hex bit.
You do not need to remove it fully, just be sure it's loose.
2. Using the 14mm hex bit, loosen the front axle bolt. A breaker bar
makes this step easier. Once it is loose you can go ahead and place the
motorcycle on the front stand.
3. Using the 12mm socket, remove the front brake caliper mounting
bolts. Once you have the brake off of the rotor, replace the bolts back
in the caliper to prevent losing them. Hang the brake using cable ties
or twine. BE SURE NOT TO PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL! This will compress the
brake pads and make it difficult to re-install. Repeat the process for
the other side.
4. Once the brakes are tied off out of the way, finish removing the
front axle bolt. It's helpful to use some wood to support the wheel
while removing the axle bolt. Be sure to note the spacers on the wheel
between the forks and the wheel. Remove them so they don't get lost.
These will need to be greased before reinstalling.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to replace the
calipers and torque them to 25 ft/lb. Once the front axle bolt has been
torqued to 80 ft/lb, be sure to drop the front to the ground and bounce
the front forks 4-5 times. This will seat the forks on the axle. Then
you can tighten the front axle clamp bolt to 15 ft/lb.
I checked out a few of my fav manual sites. but no luck. esp since its copyrighted. few options, of course u can go to your fav kawi shop and pay 50 bucks for 1. OR get on Ebay, usually someone has one on CD that sells for anywhere between 5-10 bucks. I had 1 for my goldwing and i have 1 for my harley.