20 Most Recent 2009 Suzuki GSXR600 Questions & Answers

Do you hear the fuel pump rum for approximately 3 seconds when turning the key to on position and right handleswitch in the run position. If not research the vehicle down sensor also known as the tip over sensor as well as the fuel pump relay. These are the most common problems with no start situations as you describe.

CHECK THE FUSE BOX UNDER THE LEFT FAIRING. IF ITS GOOD TRY THE THERMAL SWITCH AND MAKE SURE ITS WORKING BY USING YOUR FLUKE. COOL THE SWITCH WITH AIR AND CHECK THE READING, THEN HEAT IT UP WITH HEAT GUN OR HAIR DRYER AND TEST AGAIN. WHEN HOT YOU SHOULD GET A READING. IF ALL IS WELL START LOOKING THROUGH THE LOOM FROM THE FAN BACK TO POWER AND SEE IF THERE IS A SHORT. GOOD LUCK!

sounds like the aluminum arm that the cable connects to may be stripped where it is splined onto the release shaft. there is a pinch bolt that secures it similar to a shifter pedal.

What - Changing your oilLevel of difficulty - 4 (1-10 with 10 being most difficult)Time - Approx. 30 minutes providing you have the correct toolsWhy - Because want clean oil in our bike! It's obvious! No metal debris for me!Step 1: If your bike has been parked and cooled down all day, what I usually do is start the motor up and let it idle for a minute or two so the oil is a bit warm. This way, you get the maximum amount of oil flow out of your engine as to what you'd see if your engine was cold.Step 2: If you have a rear stand, use it. It's a lot easier this way. Some people would rather do it using the side stand so the oil pours out at the most angle, but I chose to use my rear stand. Either way works. Report this imageStep 3: Remove your left side fairing. The bolts are indicated in red circles. There are 3 Allen bolts and 3 plastic push clips. If you have cut frame sliders like I do, you want to remove that as well. Make sure to replace the bolts + hardware in a safe place. I chose to put them back where they belong so I wouldn't lose them. For those with sliders, I suggest you put the motor mount bolt back into place to keep the motor from shifting during your oil change. Report this image Report this image Report this imageStep 4: Using a 17mm wrench or socket, carefully unbolt the drain plug counter-clockwise. Make sure you have an oil drain container or a bucket of some sort to catch the oil. DO NOT do what I did. I accidentally dropped my drain plug and it went into the oil storage container. I had to get a magnet pen thing to retrieve it. During this process, you may want to remove the oil fill plug as well to let the maximum amount of oil drain. If you have time, take a break while it's draining. If you want ALL of it out, it'll take a good 20 minutes. Report this imageStep 5: Remove the oil filter. You'll want to be careful as well as oil will more than likely drip out. Wipe off any access oil around the engine block after you're done. Report this image Report this imageA common mistake that often happens is the seal stays on the block. Make sure EVERYTHING is removed. The last thing you want is to have oil spit out everywhere after you're done assembling everything to only find out you're running 2 seals/gaskets. If you don't believe that it's common, check the 06-07 GSXR forum. Believe me.Step 6: Put your oil drain plug back in and torque it to spec. I believe it is 16.5 ft. lbs. Any more than that and I guarantee you will strip it. A new crush washer is also a good idea if you have, but I don't believe it's that necesarry.Step 7: Pour some new oil into your new oil filter. I chose to use a Suzuki filter only because the obvious..It's a Suzuki! Duh! The amount use, I'm not too sure of. I just poured enough so it was almost full. If you have the correct spec, please let me know and I'll edit this post. After that, reinstall the oil filter and torque it to the correct spec. I don't know how tight mine is, but it's "VERY TIGHT" if that means anything. I have no way as of right now to check torque specs, but "VERY TIGHT" should be good enough. This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. Report this image Report this imageStep 9: Reinstall your fairing. If you have a cut frame slider, torque it down to spec. I'm too lazy to look at the specs, but I think it's 45 ft lbs? Step 9: Using a funnel, pour oil in the filler hole. Check your sight glass as well. I poured in about 2.5 quarts of oil and I turned on the engine and let it idle for about 3-4 minutes, then I rode it around the block and checkd the level again. It's best to check your oil level after all the oil settled, so a good idea is to turn off your engine and let it sit for about 2 minutes. I know it's a huge debate to how much oil you should be using, but just go by your eyes and forget what the "dealer" says. When I bought my oil, the mechanic said 3.4 quarts but I didn't believe a word he was saying. From my past 5 oil changes on my K8, I've used ALMOST 3 quarts. but definitely more than 2.65 quarts as the manual states. Report this image Report this imageYou shouldn't put more than 3 quarts in. If you have more than that, I suggest you drain some to prevent any type of engine damage.this is almost the same for a 2001

Might be a relay check fuse box or ground problem Check light switch MOPAR KENNY

sounds like fuel problem, does it smell of fuel from exhaust? are the plugs wet? it is over fueling or even underfueling.

Gearbox and engine share the same oil.

As for the gearbox, you don't say how many miles it has done or how long you have owned it. It could be normal wear and tear.

My advice, take it to your local dealer and ask the mechanic to give it a try. They should be honest and tell you if it is normal or needs attention before costing you a lot more.

All the best

from the sounds of it id say fuel pressure regulator i hope this helps check for vacuum leaks before replacing

you can't really test them, best bet is it always replace both stator and reg/rec. it insures that that both major parts in the charging system is new and working

Low beam is burt out needs a new bulb MOPAR KENNY

Si jodance

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.

A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....

You can't, the computerized system is in place to stop exactly what you are trying to do, Steal the bike without the correct credentials. You can't reprogram or over-ride the computer. You need a bike electrician.

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcafee&type=E210US1494G0&p=repair+manual+for+1986+Suzuki+cavalcade+gv1400

The crank case will be almost as hot as the oil flowing around the engine, lubricating the bearings.

Thinking you meant Raider and not 'rider', and this is a Suzuki motorcycle and should not be in Cars and Trucks category. Edited and moved. https://www.google.com/search?q=raider+150+carb+tensioner

The air/fuel mixture screw on a Suzuki VS800 Intruder is typically located on the carburetor. To adjust the air/fuel mixture, you'll need to locate the carburetor and look for a small screw that can be turned. Keep in mind that the exact location of the screw may vary slightly depending on the model year and specific carburetor version on your VS800 Intruder. Generally, it is located on the bottom or side of the carburetor. Here are the general steps to locate and adjust the air/fuel mixture screw: 1. Locate the Carburetor: The carburetor is usually positioned on the side or underside of the engine. Follow the intake manifold or air filter housing to find the carburetor. 2. Identify the Air/Fuel Screw: Look for a small screw on the carburetor. This screw is typically flat-headed and may be recessed. It is often located near the bottom of the carburetor. 3.Adjustment: With the engine running at idle, use a screwdriver to turn the air/fuel mixture screw. Turning it clockwise (in) usually leans out the mixture, while turning it counterclockwise (out) enriches the mixture. 4. Listen to the Engine: As you make adjustments, listen to the engine's sound. The goal is to find the point where the engine runs smoothly and the idle is stable. 5. Fine-Tune: Make small adjustments and give the engine a moment to respond before making further changes. It's a process of trial and error to find the optimal setting. 6. Check the Owner's Manual: Refer to your motorcycle's owner's manual for specific guidance on the location and adjustment of the air/fuel mixture screw. The manual will provide information tailored to your bike's make and model. If you're uncomfortable making these adjustments yourself or if you're unsure about the location of the screw, it's advisable to consult a professional mechanic or refer to the specific service manual for your Suzuki VS800 Intruder.