20 Most Recent 2008 kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic Questions & Answers

Not sure of the 900 Classic, but look to the rear of where the gear change pedal is attached to the splined shaft coming from the gearbox. Is the window there?

The following applies to pretty much any carbureted engine. You need three things for an internal combustion engine: Fuel, Spark, and Air. The first place I'd start is with the spark plug. Remove the plug. With the plug wire attached to the plug, ground the electrode (threaded part) against the metal frame and crank the engine again. Check to see if there's a spark between the electrodes. If there is, then you've established spark - for that cylinder and only that cylinder. If you have spark in all cylinders, next thing I'd check is fuel. I would start at the fuel inlet of the carb. Pull off the fuel line and make sure fuel can get there from the tank. If not, you have a plugged filter or debris in the tank that's preventing the fuel from reaching the carb. Clear the obstruction and try starting. Still won't start? There is the possibility that gas in the carb has dried out. That can plug ports, keep the float from working, etc. Best fix is a carb cleanout. On some bikes, you can check to see if the float is working. There is sometimes a drain valve in the sediment bowl (on the bottom of the carb). Open the drain and see if gas comes out. If it doesn't then there is no gas in the carb. If no gas comes out, then it's likely that your float is stuck. If you don't have a drain valve, on some carbs, there is a "nut" on the bottom of the sediment bolt. It's actually a bolt that holds the sediment bowl to the carb. Loosen the bolt until your bowl is free to move. If no gas comes out between the bowl and the carb, your float is stuck. If it does come out, then it could be the needle that meters gas to your engine. Work the throttle a few times and then try again. With the gas in the bowl, working the throttle moves the needle in and out and can clear out enough "varnish" to let gas get into the cylinder. Again, try starting it. Still no joy, pull the plug and see if it's wet. If it's wet, then it has been getting gas - too much, in fact, but that's because it hasn't been firing. You're back to two issues: Either the needle isn't closing and too much gas is getting into the cylinder or you don't have spark. If it's the first, then you need to pull the carb for that cylinder, clean it out and re-install. If it's the second, you have an intermittent wiring problem which is going to be a lot of fun to find.

You have an electrical problem. I don't know for sure how your switch works - whether it makes contact or breaks contact - if it makes contact, then you should be able to short the wire to sending unit to ground and the light will go out and stay out. That will happen with our without the engine running - ignition on. That means your sender is bad. If the sender breaks contact then the wire is probably "hot" (12 VDC). You can check that with a volt meter or a light tester. You can even check it with a tail light bulb - the wire on the side of the base and the center of the base against a metal surface on the bike. If it isn't hot, then your wiring may be bad. If it is hot, then it's your sender.

Opppss.. buy a new speedo. or just write down the mileage between trips,, a new speedo is $$$$.

The RESERVOIR TANK is on the left side, bottom frame rail, between engine/transmission and rear tire. Radiator filler is left side of frame, up under gas tank.

Sounds like your battery is dead and will no longer hold a charge. Take it a local auto parts store where they can test it.

Alternator issue

• If it starts, it's firing. If you mean it starts and then dies, that's different. Three things are needed for operation: fuel, spark, and air. You have spark and air or it wouldn't start. You have some fuel, but you run out in the carbs and then the engine dies. I suggest a fuel problem. I'd start by looking at a fuel filter.

Sound like the neutral switch is buggered? a lot of people bypass this by simply unplugging it from the loom. The pulling in the clutch to start is another safety thing & often that switch craps out & gives problems.

Both my clutch & neutral switches are bypassed as there are no spares shops in the desert.

Mezo.

The VIN decoder info is below. Since the Vin shows it to be a VN900B, the bike is the "Classic" model. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

There will be a nut bolt holding the turn signal on the rod.There will be a nut on the inside of the fender holding the turn signal. Loosen the nut and rotate your signal to the position you like and re-tighten the nut.--- Click this link for more details:--- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/08/right-turn-signal-on-rear-fender-on.html ---------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

There will be a nut on the inside of the fender holding the turn signal. Loosen the nut and rotate your signal to the position you like and retighten the nut. Sorry but I do not recall the size of the nut. If you need anything else let me know, Daniel.

Check the wiring at the sending unit. You may have to remove it from the gas tank and resolder or replace

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You cut the old ones off and then spray the new ones inside and the bars with Windex and quickly slide them on, it must be done in one smooth motion. I have done this many times on many different bikes, it is not easy.

It is is firing out of the carb and the exhaust, the timing must be off, but also slipping. Is the flywheel tight? https://www.google.com/search?q=1984+kawasaki+klt+250+backfiring+problem ..

Not mentioned anywhere https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+size Lots of information for the bigger ones, 'Eliminator' is a whole range of models 125cc to 900cc https://www.google.com/search?q=kawasaki+eliminator+%22EL+175%22+carburetor+replacement ..

Absolutely, the rectifier on your Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500 can be repositioned during a customization project. The rectifier is a crucial part of the motorcycle's electrical system, converting alternating current (AC) from the stator into direct current (DC) to charge the battery and power the bike's electrical components. While relocating the rectifier, it's important to consider a few key factors:

1. Space and Mounting: Assess the available space on the motorcycle to find a suitable location for the rectifier. Ensure that the new position allows for proper mounting and secure attachment without interfering with other components or the bike's functionality.
2. Heat Dissipation: The rectifier generates heat during operation, so it's essential to relocate it to an area with adequate airflow for cooling. Mounting it in a well-ventilated area helps prevent overheating issues.
3. Wiring and Connections: When moving the rectifier, ensure that the wiring can be appropriately rerouted to reach its new location. Take care to maintain proper electrical connections and ensure a secure, stable wiring setup.
4. Protection: Consider adding protective measures, such as shields or guards, to safeguard the relocated rectifier from road debris, water, or other potential hazards.

Modifying the placement of the rectifier may require custom brackets, mounts, or fabrication work to secure it in the desired location. It's crucial to execute the relocation carefully, maintaining proper electrical connections and ensuring the rectifier's safety and functionality. If you're not confident in performing these modifications yourself, consulting a professional motorcycle mechanic or technician with experience in customizations can be highly beneficial. They can offer guidance, expertise, and ensure that the modifications are carried out safely and effectively.

eBay is the only place and there is only one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/266382749570 Or direct from China https://power-tool-batteries.en.made-in-china.com/product/tqRnSCOglNhK/China-Kawasaki-Power-Tool-Batteries-21-6V-Replacement.html Or you can open it up and solder in the individual NiCad cells. Better to replace with NiMH. This is probably why they don't exist, RECALL on the charger. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2007/alltrade-tools-recalls-power-tool-battery-chargers-due-to-burn-and-laceration-hazards ..

IGNITION SYSTEM for Kawasaki GT750 1992 # KAWASAKI - Online Genuine Spare Parts Catalogue (bike-parts-kawa.com)