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2007 Harley Davidson FLSTF Softail Fat Boy Questions & Answers
My 2007 harley fatboy will quit when it gets hot on occasion. will restart and rum fine for 100 miles or so then quit again
Have you checked for any error codes?
To actually get to the diagnosis mode (to read error codes):
1- Turn motorcycle ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch to RUN.
Push odometer reset button in & hold.
Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting will illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.
Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.
Turn motorcycle ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch to RUN.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting will illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carburetor])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer
6 - To get the DTC in an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed. NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.
"No Rsp" will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.
The actual error codes will appear (format) as "P0374", for example.
How do I tighten and
Remove the "inspection cover" in the center of your primary. Using your finger, gauge the up and travel of the upper run of the primary chain. Set it to between 3/4" and 7/8" with the engine cold. Now, with that being said, unless you're used to what you're doing, you'll probably find it pretty difficult to judge this distance and I know of no way to accurately measure and set the tension without taking the outer primary cover off. But, considering the price of a new gasket for the outer primary cover, I'd be willing to settle for a "close" setting. It's not that critical just don't get it too tight or too loose. Someone makes a tool for doing it but I don't remember who it is. To adjust the tension, loosen the nut just inside the inspection cover and move the shoe up to reduce the tension.
Good Luck
Steve
LOCAL SHOP SAYS MY STATOR
To check the stator you'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter). Put the meter's function selector switch to OHMS, R X 1 SCALE. Touch the two meter leads together and notice the reading. It should be something like 0.7 ohms or so. Now, touch one lead to the engine and the other lead to either of the two metal contacts in the plug in the engine case. Do not allow that lead to touch the engine case. Your meter should read infinite ohms. Then move that meter lead to the other metal contact again not touching the engine case. You should still read infinite ohms. If your meter reads 0.7 ohms or anything other than infinity on either contact, your stator is shorted to ground. The oil on the plug has nothing to do with this. The plug is made out of a rubber compound like an oil seal. Over the years of heating and cooling the rubber gets brittle and shrinks a bit. Then, the oil in the primary seeps between the plug and the engine case. This is common but it does not effect the operation of the stator. To stop the leak, you usually have to replace the stator.
Good Luck
steve
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