Harley Davidson Motorcycles - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

There are videos here https://www.google.com/search?q=2008+harley+davidson+softail+remove+starter+motor ..

On most vehicles rocker covers are not normally bolted down that hard. Install the bolts by hand until finger tight then tighten in sequence a Quarter turn at a time until you get to 20 Ft/lbs and NOT tighter. Rocker covers are not normally exposed to full oil pressure so don't need to be a high torque setting. I often go to 15 Ft/lbs first and run the vehicle for one or two miles to check for leaks. That gives me that extra 5 Ft/lbs to avoid over tightening bolts.

It needs cleaning and lubricating. Flood and brush with WD40 or gasoline. Dry off and lubricate with light machine oil. https://www.google.com/search?q=1983+Harley+Davidson+FLHS+starter+not+disengaging ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to correct category. This says yes it will. https://blixtodunder.com/dokument/bibliotek/File/datablad/Hjul_och_dackstorlek.pdf ..

What is the torque for the front and rear 2017 router

can you attach a photo ?

not a car so moved to MC buy the manual from Harley if doing DIY, buy it google it or ask them.

Not unless it has a low-oil shut off sensor.

Hi, Please call Harley-Davidson and ask you to email you document so that you can access the color code Their phone number is 1 (800) 258-2464. Thank you.

It is likley flashing 6 times to advise you that there is a ciurrent DTC or DTCs set.

Yes it does exist. Only one 't' in 'Softail' though so I edited it. https://www.google.com/search?q=1985+Harley+Davidson+fxst+softail ..

Gordon gives the answer Put the original key or known working key in the ignition switch with a little bit of pressure in towards the on position, while holding the key that way wiggle the front end by holding on to one of the grips at the same time. Doing this will help the key to turn by allowing it to line up, and push a little bit of debris (foreign particles) out of the way. Spray WD40 or similar product with a nozzle tube down around the thin clearance before trying the key it will flush it out and lube the fine lock pins if they're dirty and hanging up. A side note: after it turns for you check the torque or service the front-end bearings.

The fuel gauge is really two parts. You have a guage and a sending unit. You must have voltage going to the unit as well. On most models, the wires that supply voltage to the gauge run upwards through a small tube in the tank for the bottom of the tank. There is a connector at the bottom of the tank in most cases.

Using a VOM (volt/ohm meter) unplug the connector beneath the tank and check for voltage with the ignition switch on. You should have approx. 12 volts. Once you've finished this test, turn the switch back to the off position.

Next, you will have to check the sending unit. Remove the gauge from it's rubber gasket that holds it in position on the tank. Carefully work the gauge up and out of the rubber sleeve because the wires are very short. Once you have the gauge out, you'll have to check the resistance of the sending unit with the tank nearly full and then again with the tank nearly empty. If the resistance of the sending unit changes, the problem is probably the gauge itself. If the resistance does not change, the problem is more than likely with the sending unit. Check the sending unit for a good ground as well.

The sending unit is held in the tank by five or six small screws. Remove these screws and lift the unit slightly. Do not attempt to remove the sending unit with the fuel tanks full and the bike on the side stand. Fuel will be all the way to the top of the tank and will spill out when you attempt to remove the sending unit. While lifting the unit, turn it working the float arm out of the tank. Be very careful not to bend the float arm. Once you have the unit out of the tank, you can check the unit's resistance again. When you remove the sending unit, always replace the gasket that goes beneath the unit.

Be very careful, you are working with gasoline and expolsive fumes. Do not smoke or have any open flames near.

Question edited for clarity and Maker name. Question moved to Make / Model category. That means it is a transient fault. The ECM finds an issue and then on rechecking, it goes away so the light goes off. You will either have to catch the code when it happens or wait for the fault so show up all the time. A dealer may have a scan tool that can record the fault when it happens like a pro grade scan tool computer for a car can.

Question edited for full maker name. Question moved from Cars and Trucks. Your question is missing the model and they make a few! Google year make model replacement push rods see if they come as front and rear or as a pair the same. I would imaging they are the same and the lifters need adjusting. That can also be found on Google. Many of the workshop manuals are free online.

They have made a few different models since 1903 :>D Most are available via Google, but a paper copy is better. year make model repair manual https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+Harley+FLHTCUI+repair+manual Or search this website. We had a great Expert hear named Greg Mahin, but I think he has passed. He was an ex Harley dealer and posted links and videos to every HD problem https://www.fixya.com/search.aspx?ref=ser&s=greg%20mahin& ..

If it is an EFI it`s in the fuel tank

I wouldn't close either one, the crankcase needs to breathe. lower one can be routed under the bike. whether you add a catch can, or just leave it open is up to you. The one at the head was originally designed to feed back into the carburetor and run through the motor. If it has a bypass, it was put on to avoid that. The bike will run better as is, when compared to shoving all that gunk back into the cylinder and choking it out, the way emissions wants you to do it.

I think the SE pushrods have a 32 TPI pitch on the threads. If so, with the tappet all the way down in it's bore, adjust the pushrod longer until it make contact with the tappet plunger. Now, continue to lengthen the pushrod by 18 flats or three turns. Allow the tappet to bleed down before you turn the engine over. When you can turn the pushrod with your fingers, you can safely turn the engine.

The object is to adjust the plunger in the hydraulic tappet to approximately the middle of it's travel. The tappest have about 0.200" of travel. So, you want to adjust the pushrod out until it has zero clearance then go another 0.100" inch. You can measure how much three turns lenghtens the pushrod before you install them just to make sure.

Good Luck
Steve

Tools needed to replace a starter:

1. Sockets and wrenches.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Pliers.
4. Battery terminal puller.
5. Drive-on ramps, jack or jackstands.