Just wondering what the small 3 inch round lights are for on the bottomof the front clip?

The round bullseye light? I thought that is the daytime driving light but it's not, it is Main or Low beam. I read that the best way to remove those is to turn the wheel and remove the wheel well liner. It gives the best access in that corner. I asked the mechanic at the Lexus dealership because I told him it was hard to get to the lights because of the battery being in the way, and I read that tip. He said "yes it is the easier way".

A trick for testing your lights is to park in a mall with a glass window in front of the car. You can go through the lighting options and see what is working.

Should be the same as my lesabre. You have to remove the wheel well cover (black plastic cover in the wheel well). You *might* be able to remove the clips from the front and bend it back far enough to reach in to remove the bulb. The clips are easy to remive. Using a flat screw drive, small pliers or a trim removal tool pull the center pin back about 1/4 inch. This release the ears on the pin and you should be able to pull the entire clip out.

This something I copied from an eBay listing, so I haven't done it yet.

Uplander Glove Box Hinge

Used in good condition.

Has minor cosmetic flaws like scratches, scrapes or scuffs you would normally expect to find on a used item.

Includes 5 screws and nuts to replace the rivets.

A web search may yield a video for you to watch.

Required Tools:

Flat screwdriver

Phillips screwdriver or else a 7mm socket and rachet

Electric drill with a 3/16" inch bit

Needle nose pliers or vise grips.

3/8" inch wrench.

Removal Instructions:

Remove the panel underneath the glove box.

3 Black 3/4" inch pan head bolts hold it in place.

Use a flat screwdriver to pry a little and slip the prongs of a pair needle nose pliers on either side of a bolt.

Push down on the handle of the needle nose pliers to remove each bolt.

Remove 2 phillips screws along the bottom of the glove box hinge.

Remove 2 phillips screws inside the glove box.

Remove the small black cabin air filter access door inside the glove box.

Put your fingers inside the left side of the access door opening.

Yank backward to loosen the 1 retainer clip on the left side of the glove box assembly.

Often times the 2 retainer clips on the right are also loosened.

Skip steps 1 to 5 if you can remove the entire glove box assembly at this point.

1) Open the front passenger door.

2) Use the flat screwdriver to remove the fuse access panel.

3) 3 Retainer clips hold it in place.

4) Use both hands to grab the glove box assembly on the far right.

5) Yank backward to loosen the 2 retainer clips on the right side of the glove box assembly.

Pull the entire glove box assembly out of the dashboard.

Some models have a strip of masking tape behind the glove box to hold it in place.

Some models have a lamp inside the glove box. Leave it in place or else pry a black tab to disconnect the wiring harness.

Hold the 'ears' of a rivet with the vise grips or needle nose pliers.

Drill through the 5 rivets with your electric drill and 3/16" inch bit.

The rivets may fall apart. Otherwise, twist the vise grips or pliers for removal.

Remove 4+2=6 phillips screws on the glove box door.

Use a flat screwdriver to pry 2 tabs on the glove box door to remove the rectangular portion.

Installation Instructions:

Install the 4+2=6 phillips screws on the glove box door.

Install the 5 replacement phillips screws and nuts where the rivets were.

For some models reconnect the glove box lamp wiring harness.

Align the 3 retainer clips and push the fuse access panel into place.

Align the 3 retainer clips and push the glove box assembly firmly into place.

Install the small black cabin air filter access door inside the glove box.

Install 2 phillips screws inside the glove box.

Install 2 phillips screws along the bottom of the glove box hinge.

Install 3 black 3/4" inch pan head bolts under the glove box assembly to hold the panel in place.

- Done -

Hello, I will suggest you get these few tools before you with the replacement.
(1) Spark plug socket with rubber insert to hold plugs in place while inserting & removing.(2) 6inch extensions for your 3/8ths inch socket wrench,(1) Swivle Socket extension for your 3/8ths inch socket wrench.(1) 1/2inch socket for exhaust manifold screws. A little quantity of anti-sieze for the spark pluggs to be applied to the pluggs if they are proving difficult to get out.
Start with the 1st cylinder at the front of the engine on the passanger side.
STEP 1.
Twist & remove the spark plug boot from the existing plug.
STEP 2.
You have to use a very small flat edged screwdriver to open the clips that hold the plug wires together.
STEP 3.
Use a 6" extension & a 3" extension & your deep socket for the spark plug.
STEP 4.
Remove the first plug and replace the old plug with a new Bosch Platinum Plus 2 prong plug and use some anti-seize on the threads and tighten to the appropriate torque.
STEP 5.
Remove the old plug wire from the coil pack. It will be going to the 2nd coil pack (located to the rear of the first coil pack) and install the new plug wire in the coil pack.
STEP 6
Repeat steps 1-7 for plugs on 2 & 3.
STEP 7.
To remove Plug #4 which is the last plug on the passanger side,you have to remove the two (2) 1/2inch bolts that holds a bracket to the exhaust manifold. Make sure you spray the studs these bolts are on with some DW-40 or liquid wrench. The exhaust manifold studs might have a lot of rust & being difficult to turn nuts off without shearing off the stud. It has some sort of aluminum box ontop of this bracket with some sensor wires coming out of it, Slip the bracket off and simply lay it to the rear of the engine to provide better access to this last cylinder.

STEP 8.
Repeat steps 1-7 for plug #4 and then Remount bracket containing the aluminum box with sensor wires.

Upon completion of the passenger side,you now have to proceed to the driver side.
STEP 1. The first cylinder at the front of the engine the spark plug wire has a grey handle sticking up next to the A/C compressor. Using some pliers (needle nose plier) twist & pull this grey handle. The spark plug boot should pop out.

STEP 2.With the help of the small flat edged screw driver, unhook the spark plug wire clips that hold the wires together. There are 3 - One just after the 1st coil pack located at the front of the engine, another just on the other side of the valve cover and a small 2 clip located about 1/2 way back on the valve cover under the intake manifold.
STEP 3.Remove the spark plug wire from Cylinder #1 on the Drivers side
STEP 4.With the help of the small flat edged screw driver,press the 4 connection points on the grey handle that is attached to the wire,it will separate down the middle and allow you to remove the wire, Replace the wire with the new wire,you have to ensure you line up the rubber round plugs with the round holes in this grey handle & snap it back together with the new wire in place.

STEP 5.Hold the spark plug socket in your left hand down near the plug,feed a 6" inch extension below the A/C Compressor line (black pipe) and the A/C Compressor with your right hand and attach the spark plug socket into the extension.
STEP 6.Slip the socket onto the plug,afterwards,attach an additional 3 or 6 inch extension to the existing extension & attach your socket wrench.
STEP 7.Remove the plug & proceed to replace it with a Bosch Platinum plug & anti-seize on the threads. Feed the new Spark Plug wire over to the 1st coil pack & replace it on the coil pack.

I just fixed the forward running lights on mine. Running lights are same bulb as the turn signals. There are 2 white clips holding the light assembly onto 2 square studs. Pull both clips upwards about 1/2 inch and the assembly should be able to be pulled out. Remove black round rubber cover, grip the light socket assembly and twist aprox 1/8 turn and it will come out. Replace bulb. I put a little dielectric grease on the spade part to prevent corrosion. Test and reinstall assembly in reverse order. If the white clips come off easily this is an easy do it yourselfer!

Hope this helps Ken

I am doing same job on 1999 F150 now. Some of the hoses are machined to look like they have several nuts on them. Actually they can be one solid piece. It must have something to do with having 2 places to fit a wrench instead of 1.

If you have similar line as me, there is a rounded part of the fitting on one side of the clip. There is a slim (1/8 inch) nut made onto the rounded edge part. That is where the metal line separates from the rubber hose. Also be aware, when I bought replacement hoses the hoses did not fit into my brackets. I had to reengineer the brackets to use them. Get extra clips and I hope I helped you.

For the 1988 thru 1996 Dodge 3.9L (238 cubic inch) V6:

Firing Order:
1 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2

Cylinders:
........(back).......
|..6..|........|..5..|
|..4..|........|..3..|
|..2..|........|..1..|
........(front)

Distributor:
...................[.] clip
..........5
..6
........................4
1
.....................3
...........2
[.]-clip

1. Remove the phillips screw that holds the door handle trim piece (under the door handle)
   
2. Remove the phillips screw at the upper front under the small round trim cap. Pry gently around all sides of the cap, prying a little more each time.
3. Remove the arm rest by forcing it up with a screw driver. Start with the end towards the front of the car. Start prying at the front edge and next to the door panel. The arm rest has two clips (one at front edge and one about three inches back. Once the two clips are loose the arm rest flips towards you which unhooks the back two prongs.
4. Pry off the control panel. This trim piece has a metal clip that you need to press from the front edge. There is a small indent to allow a small screwdriver. Don't use a screw driver! Use a thin putty knife, but a scredriver will work. There is a lip that the knife will catch on and release the trim. The back of the trim has a fixed clip, so unless you release the front clip it ain't gonna budge! Then unplug the attached wires.
   
5. Now remove the 2 screws that appeared once the arm rest is off. I think that's all the screws. Pry the bottom of the panel away from the door starting at the bottom back corner (you will feel where there is resistance) and the plastic retaining clips will pop loose one after the other.
   
6. Your panel should now be completely loose on both sides and the bottom, held on only by the top lip (that is supposed to lift off) and the door handle trim
7. The door handle trim is a little tricky but once you know its not that hard. First of all its held it place by two clips. One is directory over the lock switch and one directly under it. Carefully pry underneath the trim in both of these location and twist the screwdriver to pop off the clips. There is still a hook clip nearer the front of the trim so to pull off the trim you have to kind of pop out the two clips while pulling towards the rear of the car since the hook clips slides out towards the rear.
8. Once that is off its just a matter of lifting the whole panel up until it unhooks from the top of the door.

ft door panel has 2 round covers for 2 screws, arm rest has 2 0r 3 screws(ft mid and rear of rest) 2 push in clips on right side of panel, 1 cover for screw middle about 6 inches from bottom. tricky part is door handle bezel. where the inner handle pivots, insert small screwdriver and pry up,it should pop out and do the same for the bottom. p.s. be very cautious with regulator when installing it to motor.if cables come unspooled,your screwed.

there should be 5 screws around the panel close to the border and most likely in the inside door handle