Sounds like the brakes are rubbing the rotter. checked both pistons in the caliper/and slider bolts. checked brakes. also checked the tie rod ends there tight ball joint is tight. no indication that the wheel bearing is gone but it sounds like a wheel bearing. turning to the left and right makes the noise more quite but is still heard. They known for that?

Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.

FRONT DRIVESHAFTS

REMOVAL

1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
   
5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
    
14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.

INSTALLATION

1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
14. Lower vehicle.
15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.

Brake discs do not warp though unless the brake disc is running true to a very fine tolerance (max 0.004") it will resemble a wobble plate and the brake pads will wear off the high parts resulting in a disc of varying thickness.

Tight caliper operation will prevent the piston(s) moving back the correct 0.002" to prevent rubbing when the brake is not being used.
A brake that runs hot due to constant rubbing does tend to shorten the life of the hub bearing.

Lift the caliper piston dust cover and use a strong light to examine the piston. Overhaul or replace the caliper if the piston doesn't appear completely clean and shiny.

Check the (fitted) disc runout with a dial gauge and keep cleaning the mounting faces until the runout is better than 0.004".

Check ball joints and track rod inner and outer ends for free play, suspension joint condition and shock absorbers for security, leaks and effectiveness. Check the tyres for bulges, etc. and wheels for excess runout...

Remove brake fluid from the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir until the reservoir is approximately 1/2 full. Discard the removed fluid.

1. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle. Remove the front wheels.
   

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
2. Front brake caliper guide pin bolts
   

• Brake caliper by slowly sliding it up and off the adapter and brake rotor. Support the caliper out of the way with a strong piece of wire. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose or damage to the brake hose will result.
  

1. If necessary, compress the caliper piston into the bore using a C-clamp. Insert a suitable piece of wood between the C-clamp and caliper piston to protect the piston.
2. Outboard disc brake pad from the caliper by prying the brake pad retaining clip over the raised area on the caliper. Slide the brake pad down and off the caliper.
   

• Inboard disc brake pad from the caliper by pulling the brake pad away from the caliper piston until the retaining clip on the pad is free from the caliper piston cavity
  

To install:

1. Be sure the caliper piston has been completely retracted into the piston bore of the caliper assembly. This is required when installing the brake caliper equipped with new brake pads.
   
2. If equipped, remove the protective paper from the noise suppression gaskets on the new disc brake pads.
   
3. Install or connect the following:
   
   • New inboard disc brake pad into the caliper piston by pressing the pad firmly into the cavity of the caliper piston. Be sure the new inboard brake pad is seated squarely against the face of the brake caliper piston.
     
   • Outboard disc brake pad by sliding it onto the caliper assembly
     
   • Brake caliper assembly over the brake rotor and onto the steering knuckle adapter
     
   • Caliper guide pin bolts and torque to: 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) on 2002–04 models or 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm) on 2005 models
     
   • Front. Apply the brake pedal several times until a firm pedal is obtained.
     
4. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder and add fluid as necessary. Road-test the vehicle.
   

For the rotors:

1. Remove brake fluid from the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir until the reservoir is approximately 1/2 full. Discard the removed fluid.
   
2. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle. Remove the front wheels.
   

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
2. Front brake caliper guide pin bolts
   

• Brake caliper by slowly sliding it up and off the adapter and brake rotor. Support the caliper out of the way with a strong piece of wire. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose or damage to the brake hose will result.
  

1. If necessary, compress the caliper piston into the bore using a C-clamp. Insert a suitable piece of wood between the C-clamp and caliper piston to protect the piston.
2. Outboard disc brake pad from the caliper by prying the brake pad retaining clip over the raised area on the caliper. Slide the brake pad down and off the caliper.
   

• Inboard disc brake pad from the caliper by pulling the brake pad away from the caliper piston until the retaining clip on the pad is free from the caliper piston cavity
  

To install:

1. Be sure the caliper piston has been completely retracted into the piston bore of the caliper assembly. This is required when installing the brake caliper equipped with new brake pads.
   
2. If equipped, remove the protective paper from the noise suppression gaskets on the new disc brake pads.
   
3. Install or connect the following:
   
   • New inboard disc brake pad into the caliper piston by pressing the pad firmly into the cavity of the caliper piston. Be sure the new inboard brake pad is seated squarely against the face of the brake caliper piston.
     
   • Outboard disc brake pad by sliding it onto the caliper assembly
     
   • Brake caliper assembly over the brake rotor and onto the steering knuckle adapter
     
   • Caliper guide pin bolts and torque to: 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) on 2002–04 models or 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm) on 2005 models
     
   • Front. Apply the brake pedal several times until a firm pedal is obtained.
     
4. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder and add fluid as necessary. Road-test the vehicle.
   

After supporting the vehicle safely.....With the wheel off you should see two bolts facing away from you near the top of each end of the caliper.
Remove these two bolts then pop the caliper up and off with a big screw driver or pry bar exposing the brake pads.
Do not remove the brake hose.
Replace pads....push caliper piston back into caliper and reinstall caliper and bolts.
Thread locker (liquid) should be applied to caliper bolts.
Caliper sliders....the parts the bolts go into .....should slide easily in calipers.
Push brake pedal a few times to restore pedal height before driving.

Look behind front wheel for rod that attaches to spindle/knuckle, and moves your wheel back & forth from steering rack. The tie rod (outer) is the piece attached on the end, that is threaded on that rod, and attaches to the spindle/knuckle, behind the wheel. Grab your tire and try to wiggle it hard from side to side. (hands at 3 & 9 o'clock ) Push with one hand while pulling with the other. If there is slop, or play, you have probably got a bad tie rod end, which you can observe it move by looking at where it attaches, while someone else wiggles it. Maybe this picture will help you I.D. it.

1. Slightly loosen hub center nut when all four wheels are on ground.
2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove five wheel bolts and wheel.
3. Remove hub center nut, then the wheel sensor,
4. Press back brake piston using slip-joint pliers,
   
5. Remove caliper from steering swivel member, then suspend in wheel housing with cable tie.
6. Remove brake disc and back plate, then slightly loosen tie rod end nut.
7. Press out tie rod end nut using puller tool or equivalent.
8. Remove nut and tie rod end bolt, then the anti-roll bar to swinging arm nut.
9. Remove outer ball joint nut.
10. Press ball joint out of steering swivel member using puller tool or equivalent, installed on spring link.
11. Remove nut and discard. This self-locking nut must not be reused.
12. Remove three upper mounting nuts for MacPherson strut, then the strut.
13. Clamp MacPherson strut in vice.
14. Compress spring using spring compressor or equivalents.
15. Hold piston rod and remove nut using MacPherson strut socket tool 89 96 662, or equivalent. This is a self-locking nut and must not be reused.
16. Remove mounting and top spring seat, then the coil spring, gaiter and compression stop.
17. Unscrew damper using wrench tool No. 89 96 670, or equivalent, then remove damper from strut.
18. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:

1. Screw damper in place using wrench tool No. 89 96 670, or equivalent.
2. Lower end of coil spring should abut against stop in bottom of spring cup.
3. Position MacPherson strut on vehicle and install three retaining nuts on top mounting. Tighten nuts alternately, according to specifications.
4. Always use new hub center nut with self-locking threads.

have somebody check the tie rods

If you can't see diagrams(sometimes happens) let me know and I will get them to you

1. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the rear wheels.
2. If equipped, disconnect the brake pad wear sensor from the harness.
3. Counterhold the lower sliding pin using a thin open-end wrench and remove the caliper-to-sliding pin hex bolt.
4. Pivot the caliper upward or if necessary remove the upper caliper-to-sliding pin hex bolt.
5. Using a brake caliper retraction tool, select the appropriate sized piston press arbor and install the tool onto the brake caliper. Following the tool manufacturer's recommendations, use the tool to rotate the caliper piston clockwise as it is pressed into the brake caliper housing, until it is fully retracted.

Use a thin open-end wrench to . . . . . . support the caliper sliding pin when removing the caliper mounting bolt Use a disc brake caliper piston retracting tool that will rotate the caliper piston as it is pressed into the caliper The rear caliper piston is slotted to allow a retracting tool to rotate the piston when replacing the brake padsTo install:

1. Clean the brake caliper and all sliding surfaces. With the caliper piston pressed fully back into the caliper housing, check for leaking fluid and damaged dust boots.
2. If equipped, install a new brake pad wear sensor in the pad if the plastic part has been worn through on the old sensor. New sensors are not required unless the wire inside the plastic part has been exposed.
3. Lubricate the slider bolts with approved brake grease.
4. Install the brake pads onto the bracket assembly, and then carefully lower the caliper over the caliper mount. Check and make sure that the pad springs are correctly seated.
5. Replace all removed caliper-to-sliding pin bolts and torque to:
6. 1990-97 Passat models: 25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm)
7. 1998-00 Passat models: 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)
8. If equipped, connect the brake wear sensor wire to the harness. Check for a good connection as most problems with the sensor circuit are caused by faulty connections. Check that the wire is held by the loop in the dust cover and the connector is held at the clips.
9. Install the wheels and hand tighten the lug bolts. Lower the vehicle carefully until the tires begin to contact the surface and torque the lug bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern to:
10. M12 x 1.5 lug bolts: 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
11. M14 x 1.5 lug bolts: 89 ft. lbs. (120 Nm)

Feel free to contact if you have any questions

Sounds like the caliper mounting bolts are tightened all the way down causing movement when the brakes are applied. Simply remove the tires and check the 2 mounting bolts that mount the caliper to the bracket.

Its has to come of from the back. Is a 45 min job in at the dealer, so it is a big job. All the bolts for taking it off are in the back,plus you have to take every thing of thats in the way, tire rod end, etc.