If it has no bleed screw then you need to loosen the flange nut(that holds the pipe to the slave cylinder). Pump the pedal a couple times then hold it down. Loosen the nut till the fluid comes out. Fasten again. Pump and hold. Loosen etc.
In my opinion the asker's comment is uncalled for especially insofar as my advice is concerned.
Yes, it is a closed system. But not a sealed one. The pipe that feeds the slave cylinder is connected to the slave cylinder by a nut, is it not? It may be a nut with the feeder pipe going through it but it can still be unbolted, not so?
If you have air in the slave cylinder and/or pipes and want to get it out, this is the point at which to do it. The volume in the slave cylinder is less than that of the feeder pipe, hence turning the slave upside down and pumping it may get the air into the pipe, but not all the way up to the master cylinder. It will stay in the pipe and the first time the pedal is pressed will return to the slave(If it left the slave at all)
Like I said before. Loosen the pipe at the slave. You do this before you start pumping on the clutch. This is to ensure that the unfortunate soul acting as your assistant doesnt sit there for half an hour while you battle with undoing this nut(which can be tight at times). Once undone, fasten again. Pump the pedal. This will force fluid down the pipe and if there is air in the pipe this will travel downward(towards the slave) as well. The net effect is that the fluid(which cannot be compressed) will force the piston in the slave cylinder outwards, pushing against the pressure plate in the clutch. It also forces "new" fluid into the slave. Now, when you undo the flange nut(your assistant is still holding the pedal down) the pressure created in the system has somewhere to go. The force created by the pressure plate in the clutch will force the slave piston back and whatever is in the slave cylinder gets ejected at the flange. Whether that be, air or fluid. It cannot go back up the pipe since the pedal is held down. Once all pressure is released(nothing more coming out the flange) the nut needs to be tightened again. Now your assistant can release the pedal. When the pedal is released it will draw fluid from the reservoir. Its' design is such that with the system sealed again(by tightening the nut) it cannot draw fluid from the pipe between the master and slave cylinders, fluid already in the master cylinder will "leak" past the seals into the void created by releasing the pedal. Any excess fluid required will thus be drawn from the reservoir which sits on top of the master cylinder.This process needs to be repeated several times to ensure any air in the pipes and master and slave cylinders is expelled.
If bleeding the system did not help, check the following. Is there fluid leaking from the slave? This should have been obvious before starting. If not, when the pedal is pressed does the slave cylinder piston move? It needs to move outward at least 3 quarter inch. If not replace the seals in the master cylinder and bleed again. Did this solve the problem? If not, with the required amount of travel on the slave cylinder the problem is within the clutch or gearbox. Clutch will include a cracked or broken release lever, damaged/seized release bearing or damaged clutch and or pressure plate. All of these require removal of the gearbox in order to access the affected components Gearbox problems are unlikely since from your description it seems that all gears are affected.
The system I am working on is a 1988 thunderbird that has no nuts to loosen everything is held together with roll pins and all lines are hard plastic. We can not find a bleeder anywhere in the system. Any thoughts
Really I have the same system there isnt a nut to be losened anywhere accept for what hold the stuff in the vehicle. So check your ownself first before saying what someone is asking is uncalled for.
Really I have the same system there isnt a nut to be losened anywhere accept for what hold the stuff in the vehicle. So check your ownself first before saying what someone is asking is uncalled for.
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This is for clutch systems that have no bleed screws or theaded fittings. That is snap fit hydrolic lines. Thus works best with a new slave cylinder, but with some ingenuity you can do it with a used one. The slave cylinder needs to be removed from the line, if new remove the plastice clip holding the pushrod in(DONT CUT IT) allow tbr pushrod to extend fully allow the cylinder to be filled with fresh fluid. Holding it with the pushrod pointing down at a 45° angle helps fill it. Once filled replace the snap in clutch line and carefully push the pushrod back into the cylinder pushing ait bubbles out up to the reservoir on top. Return the retainer clip and bolt the slave cylinder back on. A few pumps and a top off you should be good. This also works with systems that are held in with roll pins too.
As far as I know this is not a Hydraulic Clutch. It is Arm actuated. If your clutch isn't engaging it will need to be adjusted or replaced due to where. Toyota has Hydraulic Clutch actuators but not Chrysler to my knowledge. For directions on adjusting the clutch or replacing the clutch and clutch plate or Throw out bearing I recommend the Haynes Repair manual on your vehicle.
and this is even faster and makes bleeding simple good luck
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This is a closed system. The two people that responded really need to read before they answer. This is my kids vehicle & am yet to try one thing I read for this type of system, which is un bolting the slave & turning it upside down & pumping it back up towards the clutch master in hopes to get the aie out, if there is any.
Again this is a Sealed ( No Fittings at all ) system..If it had fittings,I would have already bled it...There are no visable leaks, but the clutch pedal weld broke because it only had a small spot weld from the factory & when it did the plunger for the clutch master came off, but the piston never came out,nor was there any fluid loss what so ever..My son was told that it is a warped preasure plate, but that I believe was because he told them he only has problems with it after he drives it for awhile,but when I got in it, it was cold & I felt the problem right away..There is no clutch slippage,so unless there is air in the line,the only thing I can think of is a defective presure plate.
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