I have a 1996 cherokee sport. The heater controls seem to only opperate the defrosters. Fan runs fine. But sliding control makes no change in heat dirrection What could be wrong. I does not change to floor area. If it is cable the feel of control seems fine. Or is this electronic / vacume

RAD FAN IT IS. Engine cooling fan.
redux 1, 1996 XJ, 4.0L engine.
Rad fan, only.
RAD fan on,with PCM wanting it OFF. bypass.

or want fan to run fording streams. NO.
ask your offroad buddies what fording streams means. (hint it's not FORD car)
We do this offroad so the fan blades dont crash and break off, as they hit deep water.
posted vast times the free schematic, off the FSM book. links.
then chapter 8w (wiring)
then fan in index.
then , easy no?
pdf page 19 is the real index.
PAGE exact. XJ.
8w 42-9 is relay,pdf page 223
so lets go there.
WIRE COLOR ANSWERED !! below. 1st page of 8w show what color codes mean on all jeeps made.
the DB-PK wire on the relay D13
if grounded by any switch turns on the relay and fan.
do not use 12v power there or say goodbye to PCM. boom. (it will blow it up)
even grounding it can... (avoid the $500+ mistakes)


the free FSM
http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service




pg 223 pdf page, chapter 8w,

Relay FAN. ECU runs it there are no thermal switches, the ECT readings do all this. and very well.
the coil has 12vdc power keyon, the other rlay pin is hot all time.bat pin
top right.


see my switch ?if you use center off version switch
mark center FORD
eg: normal(pcm), ford, BYpass (or active)
or normal, dead, force on.



the first image is the risky way... but some do that. just SPST switch. (2 pins toggle, id use the 3pin way)

I assume your heater setting is electric control, if so either your defrost and floor heat switch failed or wire problem. For the air not hot, check the heat control valve on the top of the hose it should be in front of the firewall. I don't know your car is using mechanic valve or electric control valve. Anyway check there first. Good luck.

Could be the control switch itself. Or possibly the actuator that moves the door from defrost to heater. With the heater on, try switching from defrost to heat and try to hear if you can hear anything in the dash operating.

The fan motor probably shorted and blew the fuse. The other possibility is that the fan switch melted and the positive wire shorted to ground somewhere. I have seen the switches actually melt the dash where it is located on Ford vans. If you un-plug the fan motor and replace the fuse and try to use the switch and it does not blow the fuse, the motor is probably bad. If you have a volt meter you could check the motor to see if there is a dead short between the positive terminal on the motor and the motor case using the Ohms scale. Hope this helps you out!

replace fan motor it caused the resister to go out check fan speed switch on back plug in burned? u also should have a fan relay that could be bad

On the passenger side front to the fire wall above the blower fan the lines run to there!! Trace an check for leaks an cracks!!

Check the radiator fan relay. If it fails and leaves your fan running all the time, then you may never get hot.

Mine failed in my '03 Jeep Cherokee, but it failed open. Didn't make for a fun drive home. Was located behind the right headlight, and in order to access, had to drill a hole in the splash shield behind the headlight. Then plugged back up with a hole plug from the hardware store.

Oh, and the heater never really get's hot. I don't know what temp it get's to, but hot, like in my '01 Tahoe, it's not.

I believe this control uses vacuum to operate the different doors that direct air flow. Carefully while engine is running listen for hissing noises under dash while changing control to each position. If no changes in noises are heard then pinpoint leak . If there is no hiss then check under hood for a leak in the source line for control head.

First, make sure that your coolant level is full (in the radiator) Next, check and see exactly what temp the engine is running at (most run at about 210) Check the heater control valve and make sure the small control arm moves when changing from a/c to heat. Check that both hoses are hot (one will be at engine temp, the other a bit cooler but not cold) If you haven't found a problem, answer with better specifics on problem including some history, anything else you noticed and which engine etc.
Good luck

Aside from flushing the radiator and heater core andreplacing your hoses, did you happen to replace your thermostat. Sounds to me like that's your problem if everything else seems to be in order. If you change the thermostat and still have no heat, you might check your vacuum lines running to the back of your heater controls inside your dash. That's really the only other thing that I believe could be causing your lack of heat.

Hope this helps! Have a great day and try to stay warm!