When starting my US 5660 this season the convection motor turned on. I don’t think it is supposed to turn on until heat is high enough. What might be the problem?

seriously I would be making a jumper wire to the battery for the blower .. power it directly..as long as you put a fuse in the line..and an on-off switch..

indicates a faulty starter motor
remove it and have it bench tested first as it is possible to have it repaired

I would need some more clarification to get you a 100% answer but based on some assumptions I can give you 2 possible solutions.

It is possible your blower isn't working. You going down the high way is getting enough air through the venilation to bring heat into your car. If this is the cas while you are parked turn your blower setting down to the lowest point. Listen then turn it up to the highest setting and listen again. If you don't hear a fan running on the highest setting you need to replace the blower.

The other possibility off the top of my head is a bad thermostat. Your car isn't getting hot enough to trip it until your on the highway. If this is the case simply replace the thermostat.

check your camshaft sensor and try cleaning your maf sensor too

I would venture to say that if you hit the dash and the motor started running then the problem would be in the heater control assembly mounted in the dash, like bad wire to Heater switch connection. A bad connection can jenerate a lot of heat and start melting things unless you find the problem soon enough. The switch may already be damaged inspect switches and wireing for any vissible damage and replace as required. However if everything looks ok with the heater control assembly, Their are a few more things you can check to be sure of before relpacing the heater blower motor. Turn the heater controles to the high heat and fan on high as well, settings and remove the heater blower motor pig tail and check to see if power is getting to the motor,( use a 12 volt test light at the wire harness side of this connection ) also check for power going to and leaving the blower motor resistor assembly ( mounted to the side or top of the blower motor housing ). If so equipped. If you find no power getting to the motor at this point then you will half to start working your way back through the wireing towords the heater controles until you find the problem. Using your test light. Now if you did have power going to the motor then replace the motor. Good Luck From Ernie @ RedDeer, Alberta, Canada.

THE COOLING FAN DOES NOT COME ON UNTIL 220 DEGREES IT SHOULD COME ON WHEN THE A/C IS TURNED ON OR DEFROST ON IF YOU THINK THERE IS A PROBLEM HAVE A SCANNER PUT ON IT AND IT WILL SHOW THE TEMP THAT THE FAN COME ON

The fan will stay on until the motor temperature reaches a low enough temp. This is to prevent damage. As long as it does not stay on for more than a few minutes it is normal

The resistors provide resistance in the circuit, dropping voltage to the blower motor to slow the motor speed down. On high, the blower receives full voltage through the blower relay.

If you had High but no other speeds, then the resistor pack is usually the culprit. If you have all other speeds but high, the most common problem is going to be the blower motor itself, relay, or the switch panel.

You can check this by turning the fan speed to "high", unplug the blower motor, and check to see that you have roughly at least 12v at the plug. If you have 12v, that means the switch panel is activating the relay and the relay is working. Over time, heat kills the magnetic properties of the magnets inside an electrical motor. Without enough magnetic energy, you may not get enough opposing force to spin the rotor full speed when the windings energize, but still enough to spin at lower speeds.

Another thing you can check is the connector at the blower motor and the switch panel. Sometimes these will heat up, start to deform, and cause a bad connection. The bad connection may be able to handle the lower current draw on low speeds, but the higher resistance from the bad connection won't be able to handle the higher current while in the full speed position.

Hope this helps, keep me posted. be glad to help you get your heater working again soon.

With 80K, best to replace. When the pump gets warm the metal pump housing expands and increases tolerances to create the "whine"

You need a blower motor resistor,and the heater blower motor should be checked for high amp draw. check Napa for the part or go to Dodge..prpbably about 60.00 dollars.