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Curt Kiland Posted on Oct 16, 2019
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We installed an NPE 240 S unit and it has a red m with arrows around it. Where can I find whayt that means

1 Answer

CJ Rock

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  • Cars & Trucks Master 4,424 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 16, 2019
CJ Rock
Cars & Trucks Master
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My 1990 Volvo 240 sometimes won't shift out of 1st, or second gear.

When was the last time that you had the transmission serviced? Sounds like something is plugging the valve body.
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A red light with an arrow pointing at a line appears off and on. what is this light mean?

ARROW POINTING DOWN THAT A LOW COOLANT WARNING LIGHT.THIS WARNING MEAN ADD COOLANT QUICK AS POSSIBLE OR THERE WILL SEVERE ENGINE DAMAGE.
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Stereo help

Make sure the red wire on the unit is hooked up to power. The blue antenna wire is hooked up (or to the factory amplifier) and the yellow wire on the radio is hooked up to a key on power supply. If it works and you lose the memory when you shut the key off, switch the red and yellow wire power supplies.
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I want to understand the "overdrive"

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Does anyone know what the orange arrow light means on the instrument panel of an older volvo sedan?

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Cassette and Multiple CD Player are jammed

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Hi,

If you hear a whirring sound followed by a click (or series of clicks) when trying to eject a cassette, then you probably have a broken tape which has wrapped itself tightly around the first spindle, thereby preventing the cassette bed from raising to the eject position.

That was the problem a few days ago with my father's Becker Audio 10 unit fitted in his E240.

You will need a set of removal tools (see photo 3), a flat bladed screwdriver, a small cross-head screwdriver, a scalpel (the latter's small sharp blade is needed to get into the confined space and cut away the offending tape) and, possibly, a small Torx driver.

1
Remove the unit from the car using the removal tools and disengage the antenna plug and the two electrical connector blocks (1 x single and 1 x double) from the rear of the unit.

2
Using the flat-bladed screwdriver, carefully prise the top cover away from the unit - I started at the back on either side and then slowly drew the screwdriver forwards until enough of the top cover had been raised to allow me to grasp it and pull it free.

3
Remove the small, black, cross-head screw (circled in red and marked 'C' on photo 1) nearest the front of the unit and then remove the plate it is securing by lifting and moving to right (to disengage it from the securing pin (indicated in red on photo 1).

4
Remove the small, black, cross head screw (also circled in red) towards the rear of the unit. It is now possible to remove the side fence by carefull manipulation, disengaging the lugs and pin indicated by the red arrows on photo 2. TAKE CARE NOT TO DAMAGE THE RIBBON CABLE indicated in blue on photo 2.

5
The broken tape wrapped around the spindle will now be visible (the approximate position is indicated by the blue disc with a white X on photo 1). Use the scalpel to carefully cut away the tape from the spindle - this could take several minutes depending upon the amount of tape and how tightly it has been wound.

If greater access is needed, remove the Torx screws (circled in red and marked 'T' on photo 1) to partially disengage the cassette sub-assembly. It will remain connected the the printed circuit board at the rear so care should be taken not to move it excessively.

Once the damaged tape has been cut away the eject mechanism should function normally once more.

Reverse the forentioned procedures, secure the top cover and re-install unit, remembering to have the code card handy!

I can't suggest any solution for the autochanger.

Best of luck,

JC
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