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Susan Posted on Oct 01, 2019

Defective fuse#8, PCM connector melted and PCM blown

2005 Ford Escapr XLT 3.0L 6 cylinder engine. Was stopped at a red light, when light changed I accelerated and car cut out. Would not re-start. No engine or warning lights prior - just died. Pushed it to a mechanic shop (lucky there was one on the corner of the intersection where the car died). Mechanic checked it and replaced the fuse, which then blew. He says a defective fuse #8 melted the PCM connector and shorted the PCM. If we replace the fuse, the PCM and the PCM connector what, if anything, can be done to prevent this from happening again? What would make the fuse defective/fail like this? Thanks for the time you all give to help people out!

  • Steve Hurrell
    Steve Hurrell Oct 01, 2019

    Sorry that answer is in the wrong place. For someone with a sore hip after 7 weeks of hip replacement. If I knew how to delete I would. Sorry again

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4 Answers

Eric Weiser

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  • Posted on Oct 01, 2019
Eric Weiser
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You must find the short in your wiring or else they will keep pulling fuses and causing more electrical issues what's backtrack on an electrical schematic for your vehicle where these components wearing begin and end. With a multimeter you can test 4 shorts and continuity Legend of your wiring that you suspect to be culprit of your situation. Replace the wiring and or fuses connectors or what have you and you should be fine

Scott Fellows

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  • Posted on Oct 01, 2019
Scott Fellows
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It depends on what the fuse controls. No sense in replacing PCM if root cause for fuse blowing is not found.

  • Susan
    Susan Oct 01, 2019

    Thanks, this is what I was thinking too. From what I can find online, Fuse#8 is the fuse for the PCM, injectors and coil.

  • stephen peirce Oct 01, 2019

    A possibility is that the PCM CONNECTOR WAS LOOSE AND WATER WAS ABLE TO ENTER IT IF IT IS UNDER THE HOOD DID IT RAIN RECENTLY OR A CAR WASH? also are you the original owner of the vehicle if no IT MIGHT HAVE BEEN IN AN ACCIDENT AND BODY SHOP GUYS DRILLED HOLES IN THE FENDER TO PULL OUT DENTS AND COULD HAVE DRILLED INTO THE WIRING HARNESS EXPOSING WIRES +TO THE BODY - OR AT THE POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX ALSO THERE IS A JUNCTION CONNECTOR THAT BRINGS POWER INTO THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT FUSE BOX FROM UNDER THE HOOD THESE ARE THE ONLY THINGS I CAN THINK OF TO CAUSE THIS TO HAPPEN THE CAR NEEDS TO GO TO AN ELECTRICAL SHOP TO FIND OUT WHAT HAPPENED AND FIX IT BUT $$$$$$$ IS COMING SORRY FOR YOU BUT ON THE BRIGHT SIDE EVERYONE WANTS TO BE CRUISING WITH SUSAN GOOD LUCK STEPHEN

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  • Posted on Oct 01, 2019
james curran
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Usual suspect is corrosion, i use Dielectric grease on all my plugs on my vehicle to keep moisture out of connections, i also use battery spray on terminal sealer on battery, starter, ground connections

Testimonial: "Thanks for responding. Would this be corrosion be on the PCM, the PCM connectors, or the fuse? I took the PCM out myself and it's pretty clean. Haven't looked at the fuse area though."

  • james curran
    james curran Oct 01, 2019

    not so much on pcm side as to the wires on the plugs,plus i would be checking wiring for wires rubbing and grounding out

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Steve Hurrell

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  • Posted on Oct 01, 2019
Steve Hurrell
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MAKE A STINK! U ARE NOT ALONE. Please talk to ur doctor. If they don't listen, talk to ur mla, if they don't listen talk to ur radio station/local media outlet. There has been recalls on faulty medical implants. If u have info on device, Google it. U might b able to partake in a class action. Serious stuff dude! Look into it. CBC has done a series on it. It is real! Please do yourself a favour and don't b quiet!

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Anonymous

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  • Posted on May 16, 2008

SOURCE: Blows fuse wont start

More than likely its being caused by a short-circuit to ground in the wiring in your Cranking Circuit.

If it blows the fuse immediately after installing the fuse, its probably a hot-wire. If it blows it the second you try to crank it over, its probably one of the wires between your ignition and the Starter Relay.

To track down the bad wire you'll need a Wiring Schematic for the vehicle and either a Digital Volt/Ohm-Meter or Test-Light and a basic understanding of wiring which is... honestly a little hard to explain over the internet. However, that is the only course that can be taken without taking the vehicle to a qualified Dealership Technician.

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Anonymous

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  • Posted on Mar 02, 2009

SOURCE: Car won't start

k is there power to fuel pump? yes,,, check grounds..... NO check relay only get kia relays for main and fuelpump since o2s run on the same relay,..... if relay is good suspect comp.... mine has same problem with no power to fuel pump i have now traced problem to ecu sux but at least it has a new fuel pump and relay lol.....

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jun 11, 2010

SOURCE: We need to replace the 120 amp alternator fuse but

the fuses blot in from the side you have to take the fuse box cover off first then you will see how it works

mecanica03

ROBERT GARCIA

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  • Posted on Jul 30, 2010

SOURCE: battery light ford 2003 escape battery died short in main ig.

yes , repair the alternator

Testimonial: "Thank you I am having it replaced along with the Serpentine belt which has 220K miles orig."

Anonymous

  • 36 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 28, 2010

SOURCE: FORD ESCAPE EMISSION CONTROL WARNING

There is a problem being logged into your computer for the light to be on. Take a little advise and check your local parts stores for a code reader. Some parts stores will hook to your car with their reader and tell you the problem. If the mechanic did not hook to your car with an OBD II reader, then he is just guessing what is wrong. There are a lot of sensors that cause this light to go on. This will effect the drivability of your car too. So in short, I do not agree with this mechanic if he did not hook your car up to a ODB II reader/scanner.

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