If a bolt get into the oil pan will it damage the engine?

remove anything in the way of the oil pan that won`t allow it to be lowered. drain the oil, then remove the oil pan holding bolts and you might have to hit the oil pan to get it loose and lower the pan. clean surfaces on the motor and oil pan of gasket material and oil on the gasket matting surfaces install new gasket to pan and install. torque the bolts to 10ft lbs torque I think or until the bolts are tight but the gasket is not being pushed out from between two surfaces.

wow no engine stated, post engine size.
depends if mechanic is size of squirrel or a gorilla.
huh?
why not longin to alldata. com and read the page on timing belt changeout.
you can goggle this, 1000s of hits, why not ?

there are serious costs to do service on most FWD cars.
next time buy a RWD car. far easier to fix.
FWD is cheaper to make, (pull rad, fix, put back Rad)
there are 3 engines. ill roll the dice, and log in to alldata.
and see. 37steps out and 37 steps in,
about
not one word, TO pull engine, 2AZ-FE CHAIN
THE 2GR-fe ENGINE IS CHAIN TO.
see step 29, your posted ITEM>!!
PASTED, 2gr CAM BELT SECTIONS;

• 2007 TOYOTA Camry HV

1. REMOVE LUGGAGE TRIM SERVICE HOLE COVER
2. DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
3. REMOVE NO. 1 ENGINE COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY
4. REMOVE FRONT WHEEL RH
5. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER LH
6. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER RH
7. REMOVE FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL RH
8. DRAIN ENGINE OIL


10. REMOVE NO. 2 ENGINE MOUNTING STAY RH
11. REMOVE ENGINE MOVING CONTROL ROD SUB-ASSEMBLY
12. REMOVE NO. 2 ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RH
13. REMOVE V-RIBBED BELT TENSIONER COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY
21. SET NO. 1 CYLINDER TO TDC/COMPRESSION
22. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
23. REMOVE CRANK POSITION SENSOR
24. REMOVE OIL PAN SUB-ASSEMBLY
Remove the 12 bolts and 2 nuts.
Insert the blade of SST between the crankcase and oil pan. Cut through the sealer and remove the oil pan.

25. REMOVE NO. 1 CHAIN TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
Remove the 2 nuts, tensioner and gasket.

Do not turn the crankshaft without the chain tensioner.
26. INSTALL ENGINE HANGERS
Install the No. 1 engine hanger and No. 2 engine hanger with the bolts as shown in the illustration.

• Attach the sling device to the engine hangers and chain block.

27. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR
Attach the engine chain hoist to the engine hangers.

• Do not attempt to hang the engine by hooking the chain to any other part.
• Remove the bolt and disconnect the engine mounting insulator FR.
• Remove the 4 nuts from the engine mounting insulator RH.

• Raise the engine and remove the engine mounting insulator RH.

28. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RH
Remove the 3 bolts and engine mounting bracket RH.
29. REMOVE TIMING CHAIN COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY
30. REMOVE TIMING CHAIN CASE OIL SEAL
31. REMOVE NO. 1 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR PLATE
Remove the crankshaft position sensor plate.
AND SO ON,,,, end. quote.

AS YOU CAN SEE ITS NOT A MOTOR PULL BUT IS UNMOUNTED
AND FLOATED,

Now begs the question, which is less work. the above, or just pull the engine, and work sitting down. easy work and higher quality
may that depends on the person and his/her size.

Hi Peter, If your Camry has an automatic transmission, for normal driving the auto fluid should be changed every 40,000km, there should be a drain plug on the transmission pan that takes a 10mm hex drive or 17mm socket to undo. You have two choices after driving the car onto ramps or jacking up and supporting on jack stands so you can safely get under the car. 1 - You can loosen and remove the transmission drain plug to let the auto fluid drain out into a container (careful not to lose the sealing washer) refit and tighten the drain plug and washer again. Remove the auto transmission fluid level dip stick, using a suitable funnel pour about 2.5 litres of suitable new auto trans fluid back into the transmission via the dipstick tube (I believe they take dexron 2 of 3 type fluid). Start the car and move it onto a level surface. With the engine running, handbrake on and brake pedal applied, shift the transmission from park through every gear selection slowly into 1st gear, then back to park. Leave engine running. Wipe the dip stick & insert it back into the dip stick tube fully, remove and check where the fluid level mark is on the end of the dipstick. If the fluid level indicates low or does not show at all, add 100ml of additional fluid and recheck the level till the fluid reaches the full mark on the dipstick. 2 - The second option is everything in the first option but includes replacement of the transmission filter and pan gasket. I would only do this if the car had travelled high km or the pan gasket was leaking. At the point where you've drained the old fluid into a container and refitted the drain plug and washer, remove all the transmission pan bolts and the transmission pan. If you have the time to let the fluid drain overnight prior to removing the pan it's a good idea because once the pan is removed, fluid will continue to drip from the transmission. You'll need to remove the old pan gasket, some may be stuck to the pan and or transmission, a razor blade type gasket scraper can be good for this but be careful not to scratch either surface when cleaning off the old gasket. Remove the bolts/nuts that hold the transmission filter onto the bottom of the transmission. Careful caus more fluid may drain out of the transmission or filter once removed. Fit the new filter and filter tube gasket & bolts/nuts, careful not to over tighten. Fit new pan gasket, pan and bolts. Continue with fluid filling procedure from option 1. I would suggest you only use option one and remember to double check the drain plug is tight. Also, remember to dispose of the old fluid correctly. Cheers

Hi J, Clean the whole area around the drain plug and oil pan. Drain the fluid from the drain plug at the lowest point of the gearbox oil pan. When drained into the required receptacle, remove all bolts around the oil pan and drop it. The oil filter is located inside and held in place by fixing bolts. Remove those and replace the filter. This job requires the utmost cleanliness, and no contamination should be allowed to get inside the gearbox. Refit oil pan using a new gasket and refill gearbox to required level. Always check the gearbox level with the engine running, the selector in neutral and the park brake fully engaged. Regards John

it should be off to the side by the cv shaft, i think its facing the passanger side.gotta remove the plastic covers! if applicable

Not likely. The oil is drained from the oil drain plug in the bottom of the oil pan. To damage the oil pan gasket, someone would just about have to remove the oil pan, a big job! There are probably 16 to 24 bolts or more holding the pan into place. During a routine oil change, there is no reason to mess with the bolts, with the possible exception of trying to reduce leakage by giving the bolts a little snug up.

cool off your engine/ remove the oil pan bolts and remove old silicone or gasket/ clean the pan/ put a new gasket or silicone gasket/ refill fresh oil...

- There is no drain plug on the transmission. You will need to remove all bolts from trans oil pan.

SAFETY: Use Proper protective equipment. Jack stands, eye protection etc.

We like to use a garbage can lid with a small drain hole in it as a funnel, As it is larger than the pan and oil will seem like its coming from all directions. so try to let the pan fall from one side.

There is a magnet in the bottom of the pan, remove clean and replace.

This is a great time to also re-torque the valve body bolts. You will need a tech-manual for this.

Install new gasket. torque all bolts. Add fluid approx 4 quarts of the correct fluid and restart vehicle check fluid level often and check for leaks.

HAZMAT:
Ensure you properly dispose of the waste transmission fluid at your local hazmat center.

Hope this tip helps.
　
R/
David

You loosen the oil pan bolts leaving the corner bolts in place till last. use a catch pan and drop one corner first and drain most of the oil prior to removing the rest of the bolts. Remove pan and clean it before reinstall... also the filter is a good idea to replace as well.

should be a 14mm drain plug on the oil pan. you remove that until no more oil comes out. then put drain plug back in. it should be the only 14mm bolt on the bottom of the pan. then you will have a oil filter below the exhaust manifolds than needs to unscrew. replace with a new one. then fill your engine with 1 gallon or 4 quarts of oil.(same thing) thats all you should need.

i dont know but if you learngin how to work on cars thats a nice car to learn on. it pays off to repair your own car in the long run. you save so much money. :) GOOD LUCK!

good luck,
Michael