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Donnie Walker Posted on Mar 26, 2019

What holds the gear on crankshaft that drives the oil pump idler gear

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 09, 2009

SOURCE: engine timing marks for toyota landcruiser 1KZ-TE

The separated gears are turned in opposite direction to each other untill the locking holes align.
It needs abit of force to align the holes,then lock the holes with M6 bolt.

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NEED DIAGRAM FOR LOCATIONS OF CRANKSHAFT PULLY,OIL SLINGER AND SPRING.FOR 1983 MAZDA 2.2L DIESEL

Here is the procedure:-


  1. Remove setscrew from side of cylinder block.


  2. Remove oil pipe attaching bolts.


  3. Remove oil pump and strainer.
TIMING GEAR COVER



  1. Remove timing gear cover to case attaching bolts.


  2. Remove timing gear cover and gasket.

CAMSHAFT, CRANKSHAFT, IDLER & INJECTION PUMP GEARS



  1. Remove oil slinger and washers from crankshaft snout.
Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove crankshaft timing gear, Fig. 3.


  1. Position a clean rag between camshaft and idler gears, then remove cam gear lock bolt and washers.


  2. Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove cam gear from camshaft, Fig. 3.


  3. Remove idler gear to spindle retaining nuts and washers, then remove idler gear and spindle assemblies.


  4. Remove injection pump drive gear.


  5. Remove timing gear case to cylinder block attaching bolts, then the timing case.



CAMSHAFT




  1. Remove tappets from cylinder block.


  2. Remove camshaft thrust plate to cylinder block retaining bolts and washers, then pull camshaft from block.



PISTON & CONNECTING ROD




  1. Remove connecting rod bearing cap retaining nuts and bolts, then separate bearing cap from connecting rod.


  2. Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.


  3. To separate piston from connecting rod, remove piston pin retaining clips, then press pin from piston using a suitable driver.



CRANKSHAFT




  1. Remove rear oil seal cap retaining bolts, then the cap and seal.


  2. Remove main bearing cap to cylinder block retaining bolts, then the main bearing caps and thrust washers.


  3. Lift crankshaft from cylinder block.



I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/uttamjeet_2f3adc18600f8ede

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Timing jeep cherockee

double posted but this time the CAM pops up.
why not read the FSM first. ? linked below.
or alldata.com . log in and read.

here ill do a paste from JUST install PART chapter.
you are doing ALL THAT book free, REALLY?
https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx

  1. Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool, release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against spring force through access hole on side of tensioner.
  2. While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on front of tensioner. Slowly open vise to transfer piston spring force to lock pin.
  3. Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner bracket. Tighten bolts to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm).
  4. Install right side chain tensioner arm. Install Torx®bolt. Tighten Torx®bolt to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm). CAUTION The silver bolts retain the guides to the cylinder heads and the black bolts retain the guides to the engine block.
  5. Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm).
  6. Install left side chain tensioner arm, and Torx®bolt. Tighten Torx®bolt to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm).
  7. Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm).
  8. Install both secondary chains onto the idler sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary chains to be visible through the two lower openings on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once the secondary timing chains are installed, position special tool 8429 to hold chains in place for installation.
  9. Align primary chain double plated links with the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket.
  10. Align the primary chain single plated link with the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket.
  11. Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean engine oil. NOTE The idler sprocket must be timed to the counterbalance shaft drive gear before the idler sprocket is fully seated.
  12. Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and idler sprocket as an assembly . After guiding both secondary chains through the block and cylinder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap or equivalent. This will maintain tension on chains to aid in installation. Align the timing mark on the idler sprocket gear to the timing mark on the counterbalance shaft drive gear, then seat idler sprocket fully . Before installing idler sprocket bolt, lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket assembly retaining bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm). NOTE It will be necessary to slightly rotate camshafts for sprocket installation.
  13. Align left camshaft sprocket "L" dot to plated link on chain.
  14. Align right camshaft sprocket "R" dot to plated link on chain. CAUTION Remove excess oil from the camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
  15. Remove Special Tool 8429, then attach both sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts, then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
  16. Verify that all plated links are aligned with the marks on all sprockets and the "V6" marks on camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position. CAUTION Ensure the plate between the left secondary chain tensioner and block is correctly installed.
  17. Install both secondary chain tensioners. Tighten bolts to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm). NOTE Left and right secondary chain tensioners are not common.
  18. Remove all locking pins from tensioners. CAUTION After pulling locking pins out of each tensioner, DO NOT manually extend the tensioner(s) ratchet. Doing so will over tension the chains, resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads.
  19. Using Special Tool 6958, Spanner with Adaptor Pins 8346, tighten left and right . camshaft sprocket bolts to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm).
  20. Rotate engine two full revolutions. Verify timing marks are at the follow locations: ² primary chain idler sprocket dot is at 12 o'clock ² primary chain crankshaft sprocket dot is at 6 o'clock ² secondary chain camshaft sprockets "V6" marks are at 12 o'clock ² counter balancer shaft drive gear dot is aligned to the idler sprocket gear dot.
  21. Lubricate all three chains with engine oil.
  22. After installing all chains, it is recommended that the idler gear end play be checked. The end play must be within mm 0.004-0.010 inches (0.10-0.25). If not within specification, the idler gear must be replaced.
  23. Install timing chain cover and crankshaft damper.
  24. Install cylinder head covers. NOTE Before installing threaded plug in right cylinder head, the plug must be coated with sealant to prevent leaks.
  25. Coat the large threaded access plug with Mopar® Thread Sealant with Teflon, then install into the right cylinder head and tighten to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm).
  26. Install the oil fill housing.
  27. Install access plug in left cylinder head.
  28. Install power steering pump.
  29. Fill cooling system.
  30. Connect negative cable to battery.
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1996 toyota camry 2.2 5s- too manny timing marks crank shaft,cam shaft and cam shaft gears

Hi there:I dont have this diagram for 2S-ELC, 3S-FE and 5S-FE Engines, but pay attention at this...
To install:
  1. Align the cutouts of the oil pump pulley and shaft, and slide the pulley on. Retain the pulley while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
  2. Align the crankshaft timing pulley set key with the key groove of the crankshaft pulley, then slide the pulley on.
  3. Install the No. 2 idler pulley with the bolt and tighten to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Be sure the pulley moves smoothly.

Remove any oil or water on the idler pulley and keep it clean.

  1. Temporarily install the No. 1 idler pulley with the retaining bolt. Hint: use a 1.65 inch (42mm) bolt in length. Do not tighten the bolt yet. Install the tension spring. Pry the pulley toward the left as far as it will go, then tighten the bolt.
  2. Turn the crankshaft until the key groove in the crankshaft timing pulley is facing upward. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, oil pump, No. 2 idler and water pump pulleys.

If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, make sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.

  1. Install the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover and new gasket with the four bolts.
  2. Align the crankshaft pulley set key with the pulley key groove. Install the pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
  3. On 2S-ELC engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
  4. Align the camshaft knock pin with the matchmarks on the oil seal retainer.
  5. On 2S-ELC/USA engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley E mark side. On 2S-ELC/Canadian engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, align the knock pin with the groove of the pulley, and slide the pulley onto the camshaft with the plate washer and set bolt.

On 2S-ELC engines, make sure that the Matchmark on the oil seal retainer and center hole of the small hole on the camshaft timing pulley are aligned.

  1. Using the removal tool to hold the pulley stationary, install and tighten the pulley set bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on the 2S-ELC and the 3S-FE. On the 5S-FE, tighten the set bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
  2. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
  3. Install the timing belt and check the valve timing as follows:
    1. Align the matchmarks that you made previously, and install the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley.
    2. Loosen the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt 1 / 2 turn.
    3. Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete revolutions TDC to TDC. ALWAYS turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE. Check that the pulleys are still in alignment with the timing marks.
    4. Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
    5. Make sure there is belt tension between the crankshaft and camshaft timing pulleys.

  4. Install the upper (No. 2) timing cover with a new gasket(s). On the 5S-FE, align the two clamps for the engine wiring harness with the cover mounting bolts.
  5. Install the spark plugs.
  6. Install the right mounting insulator with bracket. Tighten the bracket bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm), insulator nuts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm) and thru-bolt to 52 ft. lbs. (71 Nm). On the 5S-FE, install the No. 2 engine mount bracket and tighten to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm); install the control rod and tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm).
  7. Lower the engine.
  8. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, install the alternator and alternator bracket. On 2S-ELC engines, install the power steering reservoir tank.
  9. Install the drive belt and adjust the tension.
  10. Install the cruise control actuator with bracket.
  11. Install the fender apron seal and right engine under cover.
  12. Install the right front wheel.


Hope this helps.

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Timing chain 96 maxima broke

Check your owner's manual for the recommended mileage for replacing your timing chain. Replacement for a Nissan Maxima is 60,000 miles.2 Locate the timing chain. Replace it if the automatic chain adjuster (also known as the tensioner) is damaged or worn.3 Release the pressure in the fuel system, drain the cooling system and disengage the negative battery cable. 4 Undo the upper radiator hose, engine drive belts, power steering pulley and pump with bracket, air duct, passenger front wheel and engine side and undercovers, front exhaust pipe, cylinder head front mounting bracket and head cover, rocker cover, distributor and distributor cap and spark plugs.5 Take off the intake manifold support and move the No. 1 piston at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke.6 Disconnect the cylinder head front cover, water pump pulley, thermostat housing, upper and lower tensioner and slack side timing chain guide, idler sprocket bolt, camshaft sprocket bolts, sprockets, mounting caps and camshafts. 7 Disengage the cylinder head with the manifolds, idler sprocket shaft, upper timing chain, center crossmember, oil pan and strainer assembly, crankshaft pulley, engine front mount and bracket and the front timing cover. Remove the oil seal and unfasten the timing chain cover, idler and crankshaft sprockets and the oil pump drive spacer. 8 Unfasten the timing chain guide. install Your Timing Chain 1 Grease the oil seal lip with engine oil and place it in the front cover. Verify that the No. 1 piston is at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke. 2 Reconnect the crankshaft sprocket (marks should point toward the engine's front), oil pump drive spacer and timing chain guide and the lower timing chain. Line up all mating marks.3 Hook up the crankshaft sprocket and pulley, lower timing chain, front cover assembly, engine mount and front mounting bracket, oil strainer and pan assembly and center crossmember.4 Reattach the upper timing chain, idler sprocket (to the back side), cylinder head assembly, idler sprocket bolt and exhaust and intake camshafts. Place the intake camshaft knock pin at 9 o'clock and the exhaust pin at noon. Connect the camshaft bearing caps and distributor brackets and secure all mounting bolts.5 Eliminate any old material from the pan and cylinder block mounting surfaces. Rub on a 3.5 to 4.5mm bead of liquid gasket over the oil pan and cylinder block.6 Attach the upper timing chain to the idler sprockets and secure the cylinder head bolts.7 Refill the cooling system. Hook up the negative battery cable and any other disconnected items. Start the engine and look for leaks.
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How do you aline the timing marks on the cam and crank on a 97 toyota camry with a 2.2

Hi, the procedure is pasted below. There is a good rundown with pics at the following post:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264429
Please let me know if you have questions.


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
5S-FE Engines
  1. Remove the timing belt covers as previously detailed.
  2. Raise the engine just enough to remove the weight from the engine mount on the right side.
  3. Remove the thru-bolt, two nuts, and right hand mounting insulator.
  4. Remove the retaining bolts and remove the right hand mounting bracket (from the side the alternator was removed from).
  5. Remove the timing belt and timing belt guide. If the timing belt is to be reused, draw a directional arrow on the timing belt in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise) and place matchmarks on the timing belt and crankshaft gear.
  6. Remove the bolt retaining the No. 1 idler pulley and tension spring.
  7. Remove the No. 2 idler pulley.
  8. Remove the crankshaft timing gear , if it can not be removed by hand, use two flat bladed tools to pry it off. Make sure to position shop rags to prevent damages to the components.
  9. Remove the nut retaining the oil pump pulley.

To install:
  1. Align the cutouts of the oil pump pulley and shaft, and slide the pulley on. Retain the pulley while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
  2. Align the crankshaft timing pulley set key with the key groove of the crankshaft pulley, then slide the pulley on.
  3. Install the No. 2 idler pulley with the bolt and tighten to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Be sure the pulley moves smoothly.


NOTE Remove any oil or water on the idler pulley and keep it clean.
  1. Temporarily install the No. 1 idler pulley with the retaining bolt. Hint: use a 1.65 inch (42mm) bolt in length. Do not tighten the bolt yet. Install the tension spring. Pry the pulley toward the left as far as it will go, then tighten the bolt.
  2. Turn the crankshaft until the key groove in the crankshaft timing pulley is facing upward. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, oil pump, No. 2 idler and water pump pulleys.


NOTE If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, make sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.
  1. Install the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover and new gasket with the four bolts.
  2. Align the crankshaft pulley set key with the pulley key groove. Install the pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
  3. Align the camshaft knock pin with the matchmarks on the oil seal retainer.
  4. Align the knock pin with the groove of the pulley, and slide the pulley onto the camshaft with the plate washer and set bolt.
  5. Tighten the set bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
  6. Turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
  7. Install the timing belt and check the valve timing as follows:
    1. Align the matchmarks that you made previously, and install the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley.
    2. Loosen the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt 1 / 2 turn.
    3. Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete revolutions TDC to TDC. ALWAYS turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE. Check that the pulleys are still in alignment with the timing marks.
    4. Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
    5. Make sure there is belt tension between the crankshaft and camshaft timing pulleys.

  8. Install the upper (No. 2) timing cover with a new gasket(s).
  9. Align the two clamps for the engine wiring harness with the cover mounting bolts.
  10. Install the spark plugs.
  11. Install the right mounting insulator with bracket. Tighten the bracket bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm), insulator nuts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm) and thru-bolt to 52 ft. lbs. (71 Nm).
  12. Install the No. 2 engine mount bracket and tighten to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm); install the control rod and tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm).
  13. Lower the engine.
  14. Install the alternator and alternator bracket.
  15. Install the drive belt and adjust the tension.
  16. Install the cruise control actuator with bracket.
  17. Install the fender apron seal and right engine under cover.
  18. Install the right front wheel.
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What does the timing marks look like on the 4m40 engine gear

On crankshaft gear there is number one , this will match to the idler gear 11 marking. and the other marking on crankshaft gear is matching to the oil pump gear.. hope this will help.
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I need to know how to set the timing belt on my 2003 cadillac cts 3.2L.engine.any diagrams will help a lot thanks

Timing Belt & Sprockets Removal & Installation 3.2L Engine To Remove:
TDC compression stroke timing marks gm_car_cad_cts_04_tmg_mrks_tdc_comp.gif

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Timing belt cover
    • Crankshaft damper
  3. Rotate the crankshaft in the engine rotation direction, clockwise using the J 42098 or other suitable tool until the # 1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke. The reference marks on the camshaft gears should be aligned with the corresponding notches on the rear timing belt cover, as well as the mark on the crankshaft sprocket and oil pump housing. Timing marks 60 degrees from TDC gm_car_cad_cts_04_tmg_mrks_60_frm_tdc_comp.gif

  4. Rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise using the J 42098 or other suitable tool until 60 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). The 60 degrees BTDC point can be identified by the index mark on the oil pump cover. Using the J 42069-10 or other suitable tool gm_car_cad_cts_04_j42069-10.gif

  5. Install the J 42069-10 or other suitable tool to the crankshaft sprocket with the knurled bolt.
  6. Rotate the crankshaft in the engine rotational direction, clockwise using the J 42098 until the lever of the J 42069-10 or other suitable tool firmly contacts the water pump pulley flange. The # 1 cylinder is at TDC at this point.
  7. Secure the moveable lever of the tool to the water pump pulley flange. Tools in cam gears gm_car_cad_cts_04_tools_in_cam_grs.gif

  8. Install the J 42069-1 and the J 42069-2 or other suitable tools to the camshaft gears. If the J 42069-1 or the J 42069-2 or other suitable tools do not fit into the teeth of the camshaft gears, it may be necessary to loosen the upper idler pulley and turn the eccentric or camshaft gears until the tool can be inserted.
  9. Loosen the timing belt tensioner nut.
  10. Loosen the upper idler pulley bolt.
  11. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Lower idler pulley bolt
    • Lower idler pulley and spacer
    • J 42069-10 or other suitable tool from the crankshaft sprocket WARNING
      After timing belt is removed, never turn camshaft and crankshaft independently. Do not remove J 42069-1 and the J 42069-2 or other suitable tools while the belt is removed.
    • Timing belt
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How to replace an oil pump in an 93 toyota pickup with an 2.4

Oil Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 22R and 22R-E Engines
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Drain the oil from the engine. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the oil pump components on 22R and 22R-E engines 86823pax.gif

  3. Remove the oil pan.
  4. Remove the four bolts holding the oil strainer.
  5. Remove the drive belts.
  6. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
  7. If equipped with air conditioning, remove the compressor and its bracket. Support the compressor out of the way with the hoses attached. Do not discharge the system or loosen the compressor lines. Fig. 2: Bolt location identification 86823pay.gif

  8. Loosen the oil pump relief valve bolt.
  9. Remove the five retaining bolts and remove the oil pump assembly with the O-ring.
  10. Remove the oil pump drive spline from the crankshaft. To install: NOTE: Pack petroleum jelly between the oil pump gears. This will prime the pump during initial startup.
  11. Slide the pump drive spline onto the crankshaft. Place a new O-ring in the groove.
  12. Clean the threads of the upper retaining bolt of all grease, oil or debris. Clean all the bolts holes.
  13. Apply sealant to the first 2 or 3 threads of the upper bolt. Install all the bolts. Tighten each to the correct tightness. Bolt (a): 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm); bolts (b) 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm) and bolts (c) 9 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
  14. Install and tighten the relief valve plug to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
  15. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of the removal procedure.
3VZ-E Engine
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the engine under cover.
  3. Remove the front differential.
  4. Drain the oil.
  5. Remove the timing belt.
  6. Remove the crankshaft timing pulley.
  7. Raise the engine slightly and remove the oil pan.
  8. Remove the two bolts and nuts; remove the oil strainer and gasket.
  9. Insert a drift between the cylinder block and the oil pan baffle plate, cut off the sealer and remove the baffle plate. NOTE: When removing the baffle plate with the drift, do not damage the baffle plate flange.
  10. Remove the seven bolts, then the oil pump and O-ring. If the pump is difficult to remove, use a small plastic mallet to carefully tap the body of the oil pump. To install: NOTE: Pack petroleum jelly between the oil pump gears. This will prime the pump during initial startup.
  11. Apply sealer to the oil pump mating surface, running the bead on the inside of the bolt holes. Position a new O-ring in the groove in the cylinder block and install the pump so that the spline teeth of the drive gear engage the large teeth on the crankshaft. Tighten the mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Fig. 3: Do not apply too much sealant on the pump surface, it can block the oil passage 86823pbb.gif
    Fig. 4: Align the pump drive and the pump 86823pbc.gif

  12. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of the removal procedure. Tighten the oil strainer bolts to 61 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
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Procedure in changing timing belt

Timing Belt and Sprockets REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2S-ELC, 3S-FE and 5S-FE Engines
  1. Remove the timing belt covers as previously detailed.
  2. Raise the engine just enough to remove the weight from the engine mount on the right side.
  3. Remove the thru-bolt, two nuts, and right hand mounting insulator.
  4. Remove the retaining bolts and remove the right hand mounting bracket (from the side the alternator was removed from).
  5. Remove the timing belt and timing belt guide. If the timing belt is to be reused, draw a directional arrow on the timing belt in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise) and place matchmarks on the timing belt and crankshaft gear.
  6. Remove the bolt retaining the No. 1 idler pulley and tension spring.
  7. Remove the No. 2 idler pulley.
  8. Remove the crankshaft timing gear , if it can not be removed by hand, use two flat bladed tools to pry it off. Make sure to position shop rags to prevent damages to the components.
  9. Remove the nut retaining the oil pump pulley. To install:
  10. Align the cutouts of the oil pump pulley and shaft, and slide the pulley on. Retain the pulley while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
  11. Align the crankshaft timing pulley set key with the key groove of the crankshaft pulley, then slide the pulley on.
  12. Install the No. 2 idler pulley with the bolt and tighten to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Be sure the pulley moves smoothly. NOTE: Remove any oil or water on the idler pulley and keep it clean.
  13. Temporarily install the No. 1 idler pulley with the retaining bolt. Hint: use a 1.65 inch (42mm) bolt in length. Do not tighten the bolt yet. Install the tension spring. Pry the pulley toward the left as far as it will go, then tighten the bolt.
  14. Turn the crankshaft until the key groove in the crankshaft timing pulley is facing upward. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, oil pump, No. 2 idler and water pump pulleys. NOTE: If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, make sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.
  15. Install the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover and new gasket with the four bolts.
  16. Align the crankshaft pulley set key with the pulley key groove. Install the pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
  17. On 2S-ELC engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
  18. Align the camshaft knock pin with the matchmarks on the oil seal retainer.
  19. On 2S-ELC/USA engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley E mark side. On 2S-ELC/Canadian engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, align the knock pin with the groove of the pulley, and slide the pulley onto the camshaft with the plate washer and set bolt. NOTE: On 2S-ELC engines, make sure that the Matchmark on the oil seal retainer and center hole of the small hole on the camshaft timing pulley are aligned.
  20. Using the removal tool to hold the pulley stationary, install and tighten the pulley set bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on the 2S-ELC and the 3S-FE. On the 5S-FE, tighten the set bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
  21. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
  22. Install the timing belt and check the valve timing as follows:
    1. Align the matchmarks that you made previously, and install the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley.
    2. Loosen the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt 1⁄2 turn.
    3. Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete revolutions TDC to TDC. ALWAYS turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE. Check that the pulleys are still in alignment with the timing marks.
    4. Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
    5. Make sure there is belt tension between the crankshaft and camshaft timing pulleys.
  23. Install the upper (No. 2) timing cover with a new gasket(s). On the 5S-FE, align the two clamps for the engine wiring harness with the cover mounting bolts.
  24. Install the spark plugs.
  25. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each component to specifications.
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Oil pressure light came on engine is knocking like no oil is

hi what what engine?
if it's knocking then most likely damage has been done to the bearings
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