If your engine jumped time and is an interference engine, that means that if the valve is open when the piston comes to the top of its stroke, it will hit and bend the valve. Your best bet is to do a compression check on each cylinder. If you have low compression on any of them, you will need to have the head removed and have a machine shop install new valves and surface or replace the valve seats.
SOURCE: 99 ford ranger timing belt
Using the same 13mm socket, remove the bolt that you found under the
a/c compressor. Look down and to the right of the bolt that you just
removed, and you will see two more bolts. Both are 13mm. Easiest way
that I found was to go under the driver side tire well, and use 3/8
extensions to reach the two bolts. Once removed, the bracket and the
power steering pump should be moved to the driver's side of the frame,
and the a/c placed on top of the p/s assy.
Remove the bolts (6mm) that hold the timing belt cover in place.
Gently work your way around the cover, and push the tabs in to remove
the cover.
Use an impact wrench and 7/8 SAE socket to remove the crankshaft
pulley. A SOCKET WRENCH WILL NOT WORK. Once removed, gently tap the
pulley with a 2x4 (yes the wooden board) to remove. If you have a gear
puller, use that. I don't own one.
Remove the old belt. Now for the alignment. Crank - sprocket on
bottom. Use the bolt you removed, and a ½ drive wrench, with the 7/8
socket to turn the crank. Once the keyway is at high noon, leave it
alone. Next, move the oil pulley sprocket until the diamonds are
aligned. This should put the oil pulley at high noon, also. The
camshaft should have a diamond and a triangle. The diamond should go to
high noon, and the triangle should align with a triangle on the plastic
behind the sprocket. YOU SHOULD REALLY CONSIDER CLEANING THE ENTIRE
AREA BEFORE ALIGNING THE SPROCKETS. You cannot align the camshaft
without locating the two index (triangle and diamond) marks.
You will also notice a tensioner for the timing belt. You will
need to loosen the tentioner with a 13mm and 17mm wrenches. Loosen,
then use a cheeter bar bar to move the tentioner over. Lock in place by
tightening the tentioner bolts. Place the belt on the crankshaft, move
to the oil pulley, then to the cam pulley. Release tentioner, then
check the alignment. If correct, reverse the above removal plan, and
you should be good.
Don't buy the Haynes manual. I fought with the instructions for this
project, and the picture for the timing belt project doesn't show the
two indexes for the cam sprocket.
Also, while you are doing this, you should replace the antifreeze if you haven't in the past two years.
Best of luck.
SOURCE: jumped timing?
It really does sound like the timing went out of whack. The timing belt should be replaced periodically, according to your owner's manual. It may have worn and stretched just enough to slip over a cog a bit. Remove the timing belt covers and check the alignment of your cam and crank. There should be subtle marks on the cogs and the rear cover or casting. The compression will be good during a cranking test, but will not be ok during a running compression check. Replace the timing belt and check the pulleys. If your timing belt did not slip, the timing chain tensioner or guide shoes may be worn and will require replacement.
SOURCE: timing marks and aligning timing belt
the marks for th cams are on the tin stuff behind the gears study it for a bit and nyoull see them the mark for the crank pully is on the case onthe bottom of the crank pully just of to one side
SOURCE: "JUMPED' time. Fixed. when started back up, it
This sounds like a low voltage issue. Check the system voltage while running, need 13.8 to 14.6 or so. Have the battery terminals cleaned and load test the battery. If the battery voltage drops too low during startup, that can cause the clock to loose it's time.
if it ran good before, you must not have the belt on properly. its easy to get it wrong.
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Buy a haynes book or library has chilton
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