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First off I think you mean Posi-traction which means both axles turn with power to the wheels. You remove the axle grease from the rear end draining it then you remove the cover try and do it slowly so that you don't make getting the old gasket off really hard after cover is off you will see the rear end look inside at the pinion gears the axle goes through them you will see how they are held on just remove the pins when putting back together use some axle grease on the splined ends and make sure that the housing and the cover is really clean so that the gasket seals properly ,nothing worse than rear end oil leaking.
Remove the cover on the engine if there is one and it should be on the driver's side valve cover near the rear. It is on the end of a tube going to the top of the engine.
timing cover is leaking oil betwwen cover and block
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the drive belt(s), fan and fan shroud. If equipped, remove the accessory drive belt pulley.
Remove the vibration damper retaining bolt and washer. Remove the vibration damper using a suitable puller.
Remove the accessory drive brackets attached to the timing cover.
Remove the A/C compressor, if equipped, and alternator bracket from the cylinder head and move to one side.
Remove the oil pan-to-timing case cover bolts and the cover-to-cylinder block bolts.
Remove the timing case cover front seal and gasket from the engine.
Cut off the oil pan side gasket end tabs and oil pan front seal
tabs flush with the front face of the cylinder block. Remove the gasket
tabs.
Clean the timing case cover, oil pan and cylinder block gasket surfaces.
Remove the crankshaft seal oil seal from the cover by prying it out with a suitable tool.
To install:
Install a new seal in the timing cover using a suitable seal installation tool.
Apply sealer to both sides of the replacement cover gasket and
position the gasket on the cylinder block. Cut the end tabs off the
replacement oil pan gasket corresponding to those cut off the original
gasket. Attach the end tabs to the oil pan with sealer.
Coat the front cover seal end tab recesses generously with sealer and position the seal on the timing cover.
Apply engine oil to the seal-oil pan contact surface, then position the cover on the cylinder block.
Insert timing case cover alignment tool J22248 or equivalent, in
the crankshaft opening. Install the cover-to-cylinder block bolts and
tighten them to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Install and tighten the oil
pan-to-cover bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
Remove the cover alignment tool and position a replacement oil
seal on the tool with the seal lip facing outward. Apply a light coat of
sealer to the seal and a light coat of oil to the crankshaft. Install
the seal on the timing cover.
Apply a light film of oil to the vibration damper hub seal
contact surface. Install the vibration damper using a suitable
installation tool.
Do not hammer the damper into place as damage may result to the damper or engine.
Install and tighten the crankshaft vibration damper bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
If equipped, install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
Install the accessory brackets.
Install the fan and fan shroud.
Install the drive belt(s) and adjust to the proper tension.
The easiest place to start is to take the cover off of the rear end, and inspect for any debris, and or broken parts. It is located in the center if the rear end and required a 13mm socket to remove the 10 bolts, a drain pan to catch the fluid, and a flat bladed screwdriver to pry the cover off once you have the bolts out.
I don't have a mercury in front of me, or even a ford engine. however every PCV I have ever seen was plugged **** end into a valve cover and the other smaller end was fitted into a rather large vacuum hose. So do a hard target search of the valve cover(s) and you will find it. Note that the grommet the **** end snuggles into is hard and crusty and loses vacuum, so is the vacuum hose on the other end. While you are replacing the PCV valve get a new hose and grommet from the HELP section at the parts store and replace them all. Ten bucks will cover all 3 parts. Have a needle nose pliers handy to help you in removing the grommet.
put flat pan under the housing remove the bolts holding the cover usually 10 or 12 (1/2 or #12 metric) bolts? allow the rear end grease to drain... then scape off the old gasket clean with brake cleaner spray install either new gasket or form one with oil resistant silicone put the cover back on , dont refill the fliud for at least 12 hours if using silicone. Also check the front driveshaft rear end yoke seal....they sometimes leak making the illusion of a rear end pan cover leak...if that is leaking you remove the shaft carefully...remove the large yoke retaining nut, replace the press in seal...be sure retaining yoke nut is properly torqued when reinstalling .
The usual cause for this is pin holes in the cover caused by rust from the inside.You need to replace the cover,actual performance shop chrome covers are the cheapest and actually last longer.You also need a tube of silicon to make a new gasket for it.
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