I am looking for a stock diagram of the front tie rods/steering linkage/suspension. I have a 4” rough country lift on the truck it was installed before I bought the truck and where the stock steering damper goes there is absolutely nothing I keep seeing stuff about a track bar but in my research I have also found tons of steering dampers/stabilizers that are longer specifically for this lift that mount on the factory mounts not sure if I can just buy one of them aNd install that where it belongs or if I need this “track”/traction bar in place of it and to buy a dual steering stabilizer from rough country who made my lift!? I’m not trying to spend 100$ on the dual stabilizer right this moment when I can good bend name single one that will mount right up for 45$. Any help is greatly appreciated

Could be several different problems. Damaged tie rod end linkage, bent alignment components. out of alignment, wheel stops not adjusted properly, bent steering box shaft. You need to have someone put it on a lift and take a good look at it.

To confirm that it is the steering rack problem, you need to remove the tie rod end from the front knuckle and turn the steering wheel while the tie rod end is disconnected. If it is still tight, then its the rack.

If it is not, then check the front suspension moving parts, such as ball joints.

Lift the front and place it on jack stands. Try turning the steering with engine running. That would relieve the pressure on the front suspension and steering may feel lighter.

yes check out the entire front end and suspension components for damage as well as a damaged rim and tire.

Mary, 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD suspension and steering diagrams. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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Tie rod ends are replaceable, whether the steering system is rack and pinion or parallelogram steering system.
Parallelogram steering system mounts. Figure A - behind front suspension; and Figure B - ahead of front suspension. A rack and pinion steering system. Tie rod ends are threaded to provide a means of adjusting toe. When a tie rod is replaced, measure the old tie rod assembly before disassembling it. An approximate toe-in adjustment can be made to the new one prior to installation. When removing the old tie rod end, count the number of turns it takes to remove it. Then, turn the new tie rod end onto its threads the same number of turns.
Some vehicles have tie rods that appear to be the same on both ends. The difference is in the threads. One end has left hand threads and the other has right hand threads. It is possible to install the entire shaft backwards (which will work). Mark the tie rod to identify the inner or ourter end before removing it.
Before tightening tie rod clamps, check to see that they are in good condition and are positioned properly so they can be clamped tightly. Before doing a front end adjustment, spray penetrating oil on the threads of the tie rods. Do this during the steering linkage inspection so the lubricant has time to soak in.

This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.

F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS

1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
   
5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
7. Connect the drag link.

Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
   
6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
7. Have the front end alignment checked.

Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
6. Have the front end alignment checked.

Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
   
4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
   
5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
8. Have the front end alignment checked.

this could be a bad inner axle joint check to see if the axle boot on the left side is torn or missing also check the wheel bearings and tie rod ends by jacking up the front of the vehicle one corner at a time and grab the tire at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock position and wiggle it back and forth looking for excessive movement in the tie rod ends then reverse your hands to the top and bottom of the tire and try moving it from top to bottom checking for excessive wheel bearing movement it shouldn't move in or out at the top or bottom

You have left and right inner tie rods and outer tie rods on your car.
You also have lower ball joints which can wear loose too....not to mention the left and right struts and upper strut bearings.

A cheap (China) tie rod may last only a year.(plastic inner wear points)
A good quality tie rod may last 10.(nylon and/or metal wear points)

The inner tie rods are screwed into ends of the steering rack assembly.

Look at this diagram. #6 is the rubber boots and #7 is the shaft from the inner tie rods.


http://www.anubiscycle.com/fixya/2000-windstar-steering-gear.jpg

To be honest, I have no experience with the changes necessary when lifting a truck's suspension. All of my work on trucks has been limited to routine maintenance and repairs. With a 5.5" lift and the associated changes in suspension geometry, I wouldn't know where to start in telling you what you'd need. I don't want to steer you wrong, so I'm going to suggest you post this in the general vehicle question area for another vehicle expert to pick up on - I'm sure someone on here can tell you what you need from their own past experience.

Sorry if it's disappointed you, but I'd rather defer to someone else than tell you something that may not be correct.