SOURCE: 2005 Honda Civic wont start. Just makes a clicking sound
just fit a new battery they dont last forever
SOURCE: 89 Honda Prelude SI- Wont start
sounds like your on the rite track . clean the contacts at the batt and at the starter and get back to me
SOURCE: Battery going dead 2001 BMW 330i
Whenever a car has this type of a problem, it is normally because of poor connections, belt slippage *severe*, or - very possibly, something is putting an excessive drain on the battery when it is not running.
My experiences have been to first check that ALL the connections are totally clean - especially check your battery posts and make sure they are tight with very good - surface-to-surface contact. Remove BOTH connectors on the posts and clean with battery post cleaning tool *wire brush* and then use the spray that stops / limits corrosion.
Are you sure that battery IS OK? Take it in for a load test - old batteries often deteriorate over time *sealed or not* and it just might be time for a new one. Get the biggest 1 that will fit in where it is held. More amperage *rating* is always better.
Poor connections often happen during cold weather season *expansion and contraction cause this*.
BAck to connections again - VISUALLY inspect ALL your cables/wires for discoloration. Connections need to be tight - end-to-end in the charging system. I am not sure if the car has a starting relay or not - and if so - where it IS located. THAT TOO is a problematic area due to poor connections that quite often, just may need to be cleaned.
Are you sure your alternator IS good --- are it's belt nice and tight- but not too tight? Speaking of the belt ... look on the inside track of the belt - has it been replaced recently or is the rubber in poor shape *splits, showing sign of extreme heat from slipping etc*. When you have a load test - that test alone will indicate whether it IS charging even if everything is running like A/C, radio, light, wipers. Check you gauge inside the car - IF it has one - and no matter what RPM ~ it should still be charging *showing positive charging - NOT discharging*. Lastly - the alternator OUTPUT -- is it the right one for that car - correct rating???
There are even more areas worthwhile checking ... but unless you have the correct tools and diagnostic equipment - it can be tough to nail-down the right specific problem. A lot of places *like Sears* will have that - and used to not charge for the diagnostic - because they wanted to sell you THEIR battery.
One more thing .... most cars will have some minor drain due to clocks running, alarm working and so on. HOWEVER - if a light *like an interior or truck light* remains on, that will give you a larger drain.
A battery should never go dead while driving - and your light *running lights* should always be bright .. are yours??????
Hope this helps!
SOURCE: 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee battery will drain
Ditto here on a 2005 jeep. We bought it new and found the battery dead on a few mornings the first year. Nothing left on. Did the new alternator thing about 2 yrs. ago and a few batteries along the way. This is what we noticed..... If you leave a CD in the CD player, that is the prime little devil that sucks out the juice. Now, we never turn off the car while a CD is in the dash. Now, maybe not necessary every time, but always overnight and now by habit, all the time, we make sure there is no CD inserted when the car is off. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: Something keeps DRAINING the battery?
If you disconnect the negative battery cable and connect a 12V test light between the battery negative post and the negative battery cable terminal the light will burn if there's a draw. Make sure all electrical consumers are off and all doors closed when doing this draw test. If the light is on start pulling 1 fuse at a time until the light goes out, when it goes out that's the circuit that has the draw. Trace it from there.
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