Im trying to repace my up stream o2 sensors on a 2006 dodge charger rt 5.7 hemi in the exhaust manifolds how do i go about replacing them one is on the left bank and one on the right bank both are up stream

SOURCE: 2006 dodge charger with hemi

1. check the battery first

usually the battery run down.

SOURCE: o2 sensor location 1997 pontiac grand am 2.4 4 cyl auto trans

BANK 1 SENSOR 1 IS THE ONE IN THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD. BANK 2 SENSOR 2 IS BELOW THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER.

P0171 SHOULD GO AWAY WITH A GOOD O2 SENSOR BUT DO CHECK FOR VACUUM LEAKS TO BE SURE. 3.1/3.4L ENGINES HAVE A BAD DESIGN INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET, THE LEAK OIL, COOLANT, AND AIR.

Pete Sheppard

• 109 Answers
• Posted on Feb 04, 2010

SOURCE: o2 sensors in a 97 gmc 1500 with 5.7 liter

bank 1 is the drivers side bank, so b1s1 would be the drivers side closest to the engine. if the truck is equipped with several 02 sensors then bank 2 or b2s1 would be passenger side closest to the engine. those are called upstream o2 sensors and the others downstream b1s2 and b1s2 b= bank 1= drivers side s=sensor 2=downstream. hope this helps.

SOURCE: 2001 dodge durango 4.7liter 4x4 i replaced front

bank 1 sensor 2 is the left downstream sensor (1/2) is located in the exhaust downpipe just after the mini-catalytic convertor, and before the main catalytic convertor. Now the meaning of this is that your not getting any 12+/12- heating on sensor, which means voltage is supplied to heat sensor up. You have a O2 sensor heater relay, but not getting problem with 2/2 sensor tells me you need to check/inspect the wiring for 1/2 sensor, open wiring for 1/2 sensor and inspect

SOURCE: 06 dodge charger rt w 5.7 hemi engine has clunk in front end

The LX platform consists of the 300, charger and magnum.

They will all have front end noise. It's just a matter of time. This appears to be a poor design and should be recalled.

The front end should be replaced with energy suspension bushings and greasable ball joints.

The front end needs to be inspected, but here are the usual suspects. Most to least

1. Stabilizer bushings to frame. Rattle and bump sound. Not too expensive.
2. Tension struts - radius arm as some may say. Makes a poping noise and moans when driving and turning.
3. Stabilizer end links if loose to touch. Noise over bumps only.
4. Tie rods. Primarily outer. If you can turn them by hand they need changing. These make noise when braking and turning. Inner is more pronounced when steering. May cause road wander.
5. Upper and lower control arm bushings. Creak!
6. Ball Joints. These sound like an orchestra when going up a driveway. The most expensive fix on these cars. Up to 1800.00 dealer cost. They do not press out the old joints. They use a new knuckle.
7. Steering rack... another expensive fix. Moans and hisses.