This smoke is a sign that the coolant is leaking into the cylinders, that means head gasketfailed or head or block is cracked.
SOURCE: '95 Honda Civic EX will not start after cleaning fuel injectors
I would talk to who cleaned the injectors, I don't know if it something they did or not. It could be a stuck open injector. The exhaust would have a raw fuel odor if it was. What it sounds like is a blown headgasket, which can just happen. The exhaust would have a sweet smell to it. Usually starts as a small leak (between cyl. 2 & 3), the engine burns the coolant while driving which you don't see. Then the coolant level gradually drops to a point where the car overheats, which warps the head, causing a large leak. Now you see the coolant burning (white smoke).
Good luck Honda Al
Testimonial: "Thank you so much for your help. I did find out the problem. I had a bad distributor cap and rotor. Got it fixed and now the car runs fine."
SOURCE: 97 grand prix gtp starts then immediatly dies
If you have a GTP these engines use a hi output fuel pump. they use a fuel pump resistor located under the battery tray (look up from under the car) This resistor lowers the voltage to the fuel fump when not in boost mode. because of its locatoin it is prone to corrosion. if you bypass the wires and the engine starts and stays running replace the resistor
SOURCE: 1995 honda civic d15b7 cranks but wont start. new
Are you sure you have correct timing? its definetly a fule problem, if timing is good then turn your key to the on position and try to listin for the fule pump to prime. While the key is in on position go to fuel rail, there is a valve on fule rail called sharader valve. Get a small screw driver and press valve in to check if car has fule pressure. if pressure is present then it is incorrect timing or possible bad cam sensor.
SOURCE: 1997 Dodge Intrepid cranks over won't fire
I have this same NO START problem...
Began with tach giving readings not exceding 1200 rpm with strange 4000 + spikes.. Cruse control would not turn on or off at times and indicator light would only work sometimes..Had several episodes of excessive cranking to get it to start.. Stalling out while driving and even at freeway speeds.. Pulling the negative cable for 10 min. allowed it to start although with lots of cranking and put it in limp mode which required another computer reset to get out of.. Had thrown error codes related to cam and crank sensors which were replaced along with coil and manifold temp sensors.. Had the 9 volt power to sensors when key was on but the check engine light does not stay on with all the other idiot lights..
I wish people who respond would read the post first..
Original post states,
Cranks,No spark,No fuel pump run, changed some sensors ect...
If it cranks it ain't the neutral safety switch, starter or battery!! WAKE UP!!
Seems the computer is not turning on the coil, injectors or fuel pump for a reason.. Find that reason and you will find the solution to the problem.. Seeing as that the computers logic states are a dealer secrete the poster as I have changed many parts in blind hope that it will fix the problem.. Relays, sensors and ecu computer.. Did a visual check of all harness potential wear spots like where it crosses over the power rack..
Could it be in the wiring harness inside the dash??
Could it be a bad ground??
Can an alternator that has failed cause the computer not to start??
Can a bad oil pressure sensor cause the computer not to start??
Can signal loss from the TCU or BCU to the ECU cause this??
Is there an undocumented kill if the ECU thinks it was in an accident??
I can ground the relay line from the ECU and the fuel pump runs and pressures up and the other relays turn on as well..
This crank but no start problem seems to be common with a lot of 1994-2001 Dodge and Chrysler owners.. All these systems have become interlaced with undocumented safety features that baffle the DIYer..If you have seen this and have fixed it PLEASE RESPOND!!!!
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