Will my impala drive in gear without right side axle halfshaft?

Rockauto on the internet, I looked up spindle nut, it showed 34 mm.
I can't guarantee that is correct. Hopefully the autostore isn't too far away so if you get the wrong size socket just take it back and switch it.
In the past, I was changing out halfshaft on different vehicle, bought a new socket for old spindle nut. Turns out the spindle nut on the new/rebuilt halfshaft was a different size, I was not happy.

Lift and support front end on suitable jack stands preferably on frame. Remove right front cv axle, stub shaft, and seal. You will need to pull the right front brake caliper assembly loose and place to the side. Then remove bolts from shock and upper control arm and hub nut to do this. Next, remove axle lock actuator on passenger side of front axle. Place a drain pan underneath front diff cover and remove cover and drain axle. In the center of differential there will be an 8 mm head bolt holding spider gear cross-shaft. Remove bolt and cross-shaft only! Push inner axle in until clip clears inside of passenger spider gear. Set clip aside and push/pull axle shaft straight out to passenger side.

not anymore than any other front wheel drive car. are you having a noise(clicking or clunking) coming from the front only when turning. if so then you have a bad cv joint on the axle. its cheaper to replace the entire halfshaft(axle) than just the bad joint, as you get a rebuilt halfshaft complete. if you hear the noise when turning left then the left halfshaft is bad if you hear it only when you turn right then the right side is bad. you don`t say what issue you are having.

Based on your description, I would say it probably is the differential gears, and I would not drive it on the highway until you get it inspected. Very unusual for a car that new.

YOU NEED A PULLER ON THE OUTSIDE WHEEL HUB PUSHING THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE FRONT HUB,THEN TAP THE SHAFT UNION AT THE JOINT CASE WITH A PLASTIC HAMMER TO REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT AND INNER SHAFT FROM THE TRANSAXLE. IF YOU HAVE AN INNER SHAFT REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT BY SETTING UP A PULLER ON THE OUTSIDE WHEEL HUB AND PRESSING THE HALFSHAFT FROM THE FRONT HUB. AFTER PRESSING THE OUTER SHAFT INSERT A PRYBAR BETWEEN THE TRANSAXLE CASE AND THE HALFSHAFT AND PRY THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE TRANSAXLE DONT PULL ON THE SHAFT.

REMOVE FRONT WHEEL/.REMOVE THE REINFORCEMENT PLATE / REMOVE FRONT SPLASH GUARD / REMOVE ABS PULSE GENERATOR / REMOVE BRAKE CALIPER FROM DISC AND TIE OUT OF THE WAY WITH THE HOSE STILL CONNECTED / REMOVE STEERING GEAR TIE ROD FROM SWIVEL BEARING / REMOVE THE TENSION STRUT WITH GUIDE JOINT FROM SWIVEL BEARING / REMOVE THE CONTROL ARM FROM SWIVEL BEARING / REMOVE THE COLLAR NUT ON HALFSHAFT PRESS HALFSHAFT OUT OF DRIVE FLANGE / REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT.BESURE TO REPLACE THE SNAP RING ON THE HALFSHAFT.WHEN INSTALLING HALFSHAFT BESURE TO PUSH IN OUTPUT SHAFT OVER THE RESISTANCE OF THE THE RETAINING RING UNTIL IT SNAPS IN PLACE.WHEN JOB FINISHED CHECK THE FRONT AXLE DIFFERENTIAL FLUID LEVEL.

You'll need to check the vacuum lines. On the passenger side firewall under the hood, there are two electrically actuated vacuum solenoids. The GEM grounds one or the other, never both at the same time. What commonly happens is that the disengage solenoid sticks, so when the engage solenoid comes on, you end up with vacuum on both sides of the actuator in the center-axle disconnect, and it fails to engage. It's possible that yours isn't fully disconnecting the disengage side when it should. You should be able to remove the two lines and check for vacuum on both of those solenoids (one or the other, never both simultaneously) as you switch from 2wd to 4wd and back. A crack in the vacuum line, or a bad Center-Axle Disconnect could cause the same issues. It's a little tough to troubleshoot remotely, but that's where I'd start.

Start with the vacuum solenoids. If those seem to be working properly, check the other end of the lines where they connect to the disconnect. (If the vacuum is good on both ends, there is no need to trace the lines to look for leaks, but it's not a bad idea) If the vacuum system works, you may need to disassemble/replace the CAD and/or check the axle for some internal damage to the unit. That's even tougher to troubleshoot and remotely.

The vacuum actuates the center-axle disconnect on the front axle. Basically, in 2wd, it breaks the passenger side axle shaft between the diff and the halfshaft. That allows the differential carrier and front driveshaft to stop turning when in 2wd. The spider gears in the front diff are still driven by the driver's side halfshaft, but as long as the fluid level is good, they don't pose much of a drag on the system.

The center-axle disconnect has a vacuum diaphragm and actuator that slides a collar over the two halves of the axle shaft. I suspect that either the actuator is sticking (in which case it probably wouldn't engage in the first place) or it may not be fully engaging (they sometimes get rusty or gummy and only engage part-way). It's also possible that the fork itself is bent or broken, or the nylon feet that engage the collar have worn enough to allow the gear to disengage under extreme loads.

I would do one of two things: Take it to a good driveline shop and have them drop the front axle to see what's going on, or hope a dealership doesn't rake me over the coals on the diagnosis and repair. The only other option would be to disassemble the CAD (If it can be done without dropping the axle... I don't know offhand). If you're dropping the axle, I'd pop the cover and see what you can see in the front axle too. It's possible a chipped spider gear could cause the problem... if it gets to one particular gear alignment and pops out, that could do it, I suppose, but there's no way to know without removing the cover.

1. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands, then remove the wheel and the tire assembly.
2. Remove the cotter pin from the drive axle.
3. Have a helper firmly apply the brakes, and loosen the hub nut.
4. Remove the caliper assembly.

It is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. Position the caliper out of the way and secure with mechanics wire.

1. Using the removal tool HT72520000 or equivalent, remove the tie rod ball joint from the steering knuckle.
2. On 1982-86 vehicles, disconnect the ball joint from the lower control arm, by removing the mounting nuts from the bottom of the control arm.
3. On 1987-90 vehicles, disconnect the ball joint from the steering knuckle, using removal tool HT72520000 or equivalent.
4. Using a block of wood and a mallet, separate the halfshaft from the hub/steering knuckle assembly. If the assembly is difficult to separate it may be necessary to use a press/puller tool.

In order to protect the halfshaft from damage, it is a good idea when striking the halfshaft, to temporarily install the hub nut.

1. Drain the lubricant from the transaxle.
2. Support the engine properly and remove support bracket if so equipped.
3. Remove the halfshaft from the right side on automatic transaxle equipped vehicles and on all manual transaxles as follows:
   1. Insert a suitable prybar between the inner CV-joint and the transaxle.
   2. Carefully pry the halfshaft from the transaxle.
   
   

When removing the driveshaft from the transaxle, do not pull on the driveshaft. The driveshaft will separate at the sliding joint (damaging the boot).

1. Remove the left side halfshaft on automatic transaxles as follows:
   1. Remove the right side halfshaft as outlined above.
   2. Insert a slotted screwdriver, from the right side of the transaxle.
   
   

Make certain that the screwdriver is properly aligned into the slot in the halfshaft.

1. Tap the screwdriver with a mallet to remove the left side halfshaft from the transaxle.

1. Pull the hub/steering knuckle assembly away from the vehicle and remove the halfshaft from the transaxle.

After removing the halfshaft from the transaxle, be sure to install a holding tool to hold the side gear in place while the axle is removed.
To install:

1. Always use a new circlip on the driveshaft and install a new oil seal to the transaxle.
2. Install the halfshaft into the transaxle.

When installing the driveshaft into the transaxle, use oil seal protector tool KV38105500 or equivalent to protect the oil seal from damage; after installation, remove the tool.

1. Align the halfshaft with the hub/knuckle assembly and connect the lower control arm-to-ball joint.
2. On 1982-86 vehicles, connect the lower control arm to the ball joint and tighten the control arm-to-ball joint nuts to 40-47 ft. lbs. (54-64 Nm).
3. On 1987-90 vehicles, connect the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle and tighten the stud nut to 43-54 ft. lbs. (59-74 Nm).
4. Connect the tie rod to the steering knuckle and torque the tie rod stud nut to 22-36 ft. lbs. (30-49 Nm).
5. Install then hub nut and tighten to 87-145 ft. lbs. (118-197 Nm).
6. Install new cotter pin in drive axle and mount the caliper assembly.
7. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
8. Road test for proper operation.

Dana or Ford axle?

Ford here:
SECTION 205-05: Rear Drive Halfshafts 2002 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Halfshaft
Special Tool(s) Protector, Differential Seal
205-506 Remover, Front Wheel Hub
205-D070 (D93P-1175-B) or equivalent Remover, Halfshaft
205-502
Removal and Installation
NOTE: This procedure applies to both rear halfshaft assemblies.

1. CAUTION: Do not loosen the rear axle wheel hub retainer until after the wheel and tire assembly are removed from the vehicle. Wheel bearing damage will occur if the wheel bearing is unloaded with the weight of the vehicle applied.
   With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

1. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

1. NOTE: Have an assistant press the brake pedal to keep the axle from rotating.
   Remove and discard the rear axle wheel hub retainer and the washer.

1. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the brake hose, do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the hose.
   Remove the brake disc.
   1. Remove the two bolts and lift the disc brake caliper and brake pads off the brake disc.
      • Using mechanics wire, position the disc brake caliper out of the way.
   1. Remove the brake disc.

1. Remove the bolt retaining the parking brake cable bracket to the frame.

1. CAUTION: Cover the stabilizer link bolt threads and the nut to prevent boot damage when removing the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.
   Using a rubber hose approximately 37.5 mm (1.5 in) long, cover the stabilizer link bolt threads and nut.

1. WARNING: The bolt that retains the upper ball joint to the knuckle is longer and it has fewer threads than the bolt that retains the toe link to the knuckle. Switching these bolts during installation will prevent the pinch arms on the knuckle from correctly retaining the toe link to the knuckle. This may cause the toe link to separate from the knuckle during vehicle operation. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.
   Remove the pinch bolts and disconnect the toe link and upper ball joint from the knuckle.

1. CAUTION: Support the rear suspension upper arm to prevent boot damage when removing the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.
   Using a wood stick, approximately 450 mm (18 in) long and 25 mm (1 in) wide, support the rear suspension upper arm.

1. CAUTION: Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard CV joint from the hub. Damage to the threads and internal CV joint components may result.
   CAUTION: Once the outboard CV joint separates from the hub the knuckle will continue to pivot until the brake backing plate presses against the suspension lower arm. To prevent damage to the brake backing plate, immediately after separating the outboard CV joint from the hub, rest the knuckle on a cushioned support that is tall enough to keep the backing plate from pressing against the suspension lower arm.
   Separate the outboard CV joint from the hub and rest the knuckle on a cushioned support.
   1. Using the special tool, press the outboard CV joint until it is loose in the hub.
   1. Remove the special tool.
   1. Separate the outboard CV joint from the hub.
   1. Rest the knuckle on a cushioned support.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the axle shaft oil seal or the machined sealing surface on the inboard CV joint housing.
   CAUTION: Do not allow the splines on inboard CV joint housing to touch the axle shaft oil seal.
   NOTE: A circlip retains the inboard CV joint housing to the differential side gear in the axle.
   Using the special tool, disengage the inboard CV joint housing from the differential side gear.

1. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the axle shaft oil seal, install the special tool before removing the inboard CV joint housing from the axle.
   Install the special tool.

1. Remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.

1. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the axle shaft oil seal, install the Differential Seal Protector before positioning the inboard CV joint housing in the axle.
   CAUTION: Always install the halfshaft with a new retainer circlip and a new rear axle wheel hub retainer.
   CAUTION: Never use power tools to tighten the rear axle wheel hub retainer.
   To install, reverse the removal procedure.