I have a 16 plate Ecosport. The blowers have stopped working. Anyone know why?

so checked all fuses yet
then scan the OBD2 port for tons of HVAC errors called DTDs yet>?
car has huge list of TSB but not on HVAC

cabin air filter full dirty and packed up
ambient temp sensor bad or just dirty ,clean it
bad resistor block seen below. (if climate control?,the parts are not the same here)
or other parts bad, so scan the PCM OBD2 port.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2019,ecosport,2.0l+l4,3443665,heat+&+air+conditioning

As long as the check engine light doesn't stay on, it looks like you are fine.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2019+Ford+EcoSport.+check+engine+light+blink+5+times

..

The service and repair manual will provide you step by step help with diagram to fix the problem yourself easily and you will get the manual from the given link https://toolsnyou.com

https://www.whichcar.com.au/news/ford-ecosport-sheds-powershift-manual-transmission-in-facelift

Here is some information on the tranny

https://www.carsguide.com.au/car-advice/q-and-a/known-problems-with-ford-ecosport-46317

https://www.carsguide.com.au/car-advice/q-and-a/known-problems-with-ford-ecosport-46317

Here are a couple of posts that talk about the ecosport.

no
the dealer is having a lend of you
clutch shudder indicates
broken / failed engine mounts , transmission mounts
oil/ grease on the clutch linings
broken dampener springs at clutch plate center
I would argue that the dealer is not real honest and that he is trying not be responsible for repairs to a lemon
clutch shudder means that a shonky road worthy was issued for the car as it would have failed that test if the inspection was done by an accredited inspection station

Replace the blower resistor. Cheap fix and guys at parts store may help show you how.

The Blower Motor Resistor is located on the passenger side firewall, not far from your A/C's H-Valve (or expansion valve), going inside of the vehicle. The blower motor resistor has a 4 or 5 way black connector plugged into it and this is the only visible portion of the Resistor you will see. Remove the wiring connector and remove the 2 or 3 screws with an 8 mm or 5/16" socket (8 mm and 5/16" are the same). Once the screws or fasteners are removed, just pull the blower motor resistor out of the firewall and if you look at it, it will have various coils of wire on it, sometimes it will show burnt coils, but you can always check the various coils with an Ohm-meter.

Aside from that, install the new Blower Motor Resistor and Voilà! Your inside Blower Motor should work just fine.

A brief note here, if your fan doesn't work when the fan switch is on High, then it's not the Blower Motor Resistor, but possibly the Blower Motor itself. Should this occur, please get back to me insofar as how to replace the blower motor and why the blower motor's wires have to be twisted...even with the new blower motor fan.

Best of Luck,

"00 Buck"

"Still living on the Right Side of Dirt..."

Hi there,

Here are the steps to remove heater core

1. Chock wheels. 2. Drain the engine coolant. Refer to Engine Cooling System. 3. Discharge and recover the refrigerant from the A/C system. Refer to Recovery/Evacuating/Charging in this section. 4. Remove the dash panel. Refer to Body. 5. Remove the Blower/Evaporator unit. Refer to Blower/Evaporator Unit in this section. 6. Disconnect the low pressure line from the evaporator outlet on the bulkhead. 7. Disconnect the high pressure line from the evaporator inlet on the bulkhead. 8. Disconnect the heater return hose from the heater core outlet tube connection. 9. Disconnect the heater inlet hose from the heater core inlet tube connection. 10. Disconnect the fresh air/recirculation control cable from the blower housing unit inlet duct. 11. Disconnect five connectors at the bottom of the blower housing unit. 12. Pull carpeting away from bulkhead to gain access to the hole cover plate. 13. Remove the four nuts retaining the hole cover plate. 14. Remove the hole cover plate. 15. Remove two mounting bolts at the top of the blower housing unit. 16. Remove two nuts attaching the bottom of the blower housing unit to the bulkhead mounting studs. 17. Remove the blower unit from the vehicle. 18. Remove the temperature control cable from the heater unit servo. 19. Remove the two nuts from the mounting studs at the bottom of the heater unit. 20. Remove the top nut holding the heater unit to the bulkhead to the bulkhead mounting stud. 21. Remove the heater unit. Regards, Jeep Brainy