Car won't start, fuel, oil and air filters been replaced, new fan belt, new starter motor and battery, new ignition leads and plugs and still won't start

Small wonder you are confused. The possibilitiess are so complex it would require a professional mechanic to narrow the diagnosis down. Here is a very long list of what might have to be checked otherwise.

Regarding the thermostat housing, its removal could impact engine temperature regulation. Running the fan continuously helps, but the underlying issue persists.

Step by step:

Fuel Delivery Issues:
Ensure that there's sufficient fuel reaching the engine. Check the fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel lines for any blockages or leaks.
If the fuel system is compromised, it can lead to power loss and stalling.

Ignition System Problems:
Verify the condition of ignition components: spark plugs, ignition coil, distributor, and spark plug wires.
Faulty ignition parts can cause intermittent power loss and starting issues.

Electrical Connections and Wiring:
Inspect all electrical connections related to the ignition system, including ground connections.
Loose or damaged wires can disrupt the electrical flow and affect engine performance.

Air Intake and Air Filter:
A clogged air filter restricts airflow to the engine, leading to poor performance.
Check and replace the air filter if necessary.

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS):
The TPS monitors throttle position and communicates with the engine control unit (ECU).
A malfunctioning TPS can cause power loss and stalling.

Idle Air Control Valve (IACV):
The IACV regulates idle speed. If it's faulty, the engine may stall or struggle to start.
Clean or replace the IACV as needed.

Vacuum Leaks:
Inspect vacuum hoses, gaskets, and the intake manifold for leaks.
Vacuum leaks disrupt the air-fuel mixture and affect engine performance.

Faulty Sensors:
Modern engines rely on various sensors (e.g., crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor) for smooth operation.
Use an OBD-II scanner to check for error codes related to sensors.

Compression Issues:
Low compression in one or more cylinders can cause power loss and starting problems.
Perform a compression test to check cylinder pressures.

Starter Motor and Battery:
Ensure the starter motor engages properly and turns the engine over.
Test the battery voltage and connections.

Exhaust System:
A blocked or damaged exhaust system affects engine performance.
Inspect the exhaust manifold, catalytic converter, and muffler.

Engine Control Module (ECM):
If other checks don't reveal the issue, consider examining the ECM for faults.

If you're having trouble starting your car in the morning, there could be a few potential reasons for this issue. Here are some common troubleshooting steps to help you figure out what might be causing the problem:

1. Check the Battery: A weak or dead battery is one of the most common reasons for difficulty starting a car. Check the battery voltage using a multimeter. If it's low, consider recharging it or replacing it if it's old.
2. Cold Weather: Cold temperatures can affect the performance of your car's battery. If you live in a colder climate, the battery might struggle more during winter. Consider using a battery blanket or parking the car in a garage.
3. Fuel Issues: Ensure your car has enough fuel in the tank. If your fuel gauge is malfunctioning, you might think there's enough fuel when there isn't.
4. Spark Plugs: Worn or fouled spark plugs can make it difficult for the engine to start. Check the condition of your spark plugs and replace them if needed.
5. Fuel Delivery: Problems with the fuel delivery system, such as a clogged fuel filter or a malfunctioning fuel pump, can lead to starting issues.
6. Ignition System: Issues with the ignition system, such as a faulty ignition switch or a malfunctioning starter motor, can prevent your car from starting.
7. Security System: Some cars have security systems that can prevent the engine from starting if they detect unauthorized access. Ensure that you're using the correct key or key fob.
8. Examine Starter Motor: If you hear a clicking sound when you try to start the car, it could indicate a problem with the starter motor. This might require a replacement.
9. Examine Belts: Loose or damaged belts, like the serpentine belt, can prevent the engine from turning over properly.
10. Fuel Quality: If you've recently filled up with poor-quality or contaminated fuel, it could affect your engine's performance.
11. Engine Oil: Very old or low-quality engine oil can affect engine performance, especially in colder temperatures.
12. Electrical Connections: Loose or corroded electrical connections can cause starting issues. Check the battery terminals, ground connections, and other wiring.

If you're unable to diagnose the issue on your own, it might be a good idea to consult a professional mechanic. They have the expertise and tools to identify and fix the problem effectively. Remember to prioritize your safety and the safety of others while troubleshooting and addressing the starting issue.

hi Josel.
Everything from the electrical system to the fuel system to the actual starter itself can be the problem. Finding the root cause of a hard starting engine can take some investigation. Ignoring a hard starting issue can further damage the vehicle, which will often result in a more expensive repair.

Car is hard to start Inspection Service A car that is hard to start can be a major inconvenience. While this is usually not a life threatening malfunction, it can make getting around much more difficult. There are a number of issues that will make a car hard to start. Everything from the electrical system to the fuel system to the actual starter itself can be the problem.
Finding the root cause of a hard starting engine can take some investigation. Ignoring a hard starting issue can further damage the vehicle, which will often result in a more expensive repair.
How this system works: In order to get an engine running, it must be turned at speed so that it starts to suck fuel and air into the cylinders, and then compress and ignite this fuel/air mixture.
The starter motor is an electric motor that turns the engine to get it started. The starter motor has a small pinion gear wheel that engages with a larger gear ring at the rim of the engine flywheel.
The starter motor draws the electric current it needs to run from the battery. The starter needs a heavy current and to avoid sparking a solenoid is used. The ignition switch operates the starter motor. When the ignition is turned on, current is fed to the solenoid and into the starter motor. Once the car engine starts and the key is released, the starter motor turns off.
Common reasons for this to happen:

• Bad Starter: Over time starter motors can wear out and start to malfunction. If this is the problem the starter will have to be replaced. If the car turns over, the problem is not the starter. If nothing happens when the key is turned the problem could be the starter, or if the car turns over very slowly and the dash lights dim while it is cranking, the starter could be the culprit.
• Bad Relay Wiring: The wiring between the battery and starter can become loose or broken which will prevent the starter motor from functioning. The wiring will need to be replaced or repaired.
• Low or Dead Battery: The starter motor needs voltage from the battery to operate. If the battery is low or failing it may not produce enough current for the starter motor to function. Charging or replacing the batter should resolve this problem.

It is also possible that the battery terminals have become corroded or loose. Cleaning and tightening the terminals and cables is recommended.

• Failing Solenoid: A failing solenoid is a common issue with the starter system and if the solenoid is going bad, the car will be difficult to start. The starter will need to be inspected to determine if the problem is the starter motor itself or the solenoid. A failing solenoid will need to be replaced.
• Failing Ignition Switch: Over time an ignition switch can start to fail and one of the most common symptoms is that the car is hard to start. If the ignition switch is hot to the touch this indicates an issue with the ignition switch wiring. A failing ignition switch will eventually stop working completely and will need to be replaced.
• Defective Fuel Pump: If the engine is not getting enough fuel, it will be hard, if not impossible to start. The fuel pump is responsible for pulling gas from the tank to the injectors and if it is not delivering enough fuel the car will be difficult to start and eventually will not start at all.
• Fouled Plugs: Spark plugs create the spark which allows the vehicle to burn fuel. Fouled plugs are one of the most common reasons for a hard starting engine. As electrodes wear down, the voltage required to jump the gap to ignite the fuel increases. This can lead to prolonged cranking before the engine will start.
• Clogged Fuel Filter: A fuel filter that is clogged can make a vehicle very difficult to start. The fuel filter screens out contaminants and can become clogged over time. This will prevent the injectors from getting enough fuel, making the car hard to start.
• Contaminated Fuel: Fuel that has too much alcohol or water in it will result in a car that is difficult and often impossible to start. Even if it does start, contaminated fuel can do serious damage to the engine. If contaminated fuel is suspected, have the vehicle inspected immediately.

What to expect: A top-rated mobile mechanic will come to your home or office to determine the source and cause of the hard to start issue, and will then provide a detailed inspection report that includes the scope and cost of the necessary repairs.
How it's done: The starter, battery, connecting wiring and other important components will be inspected by the mechanic. This may include the vehicle's fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition and more. It may be necessary for the mechanic to crank up the car to verify the problem and issue an accurate diagnosis.
How important is this service? If a car is hard to start, it's indicative of a major condition preventing normal operation and if left unattended it may lead to the car not starting at all. The vehicle should be inspected and repaired as soon as possible.

You've already eliminated the spark plug & wireset, distributor cap & rotor.
Sounds like your car needs a tune-up, specifically, the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve, and/of the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve.

Components checked/replaced during a tune-up are:
air filter
motor oil
motor oil filter
breather filter
fuel filter(s)
fuel strainer
PCV valve
EGR valve
spark plugs
spark plug wires
ECM or distributor cap & rotor
cabin air filter
transmission oil filter
transmission oil
engine coolant
check all vacuum hoses and lines

Troubleshooting the no-start condition - from the 1990 Mitsu Mighty Max Repair Manual:

Priority Action Part Type -- Cause
1 Inspect Battery -- Battery Discharged or Faulty.
2 Inspect Battery Cable -- Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
3 Inspect Distributor Cap -- Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned.
3 Inspect Fuel Filter -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
5 Inspect Ignition Coil -- Faulty Ignition Coil.
6 Inspect Wireset -- Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s).
7 Inspect Spark Plug -- Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
8 Inspect Starter -- Starter Motor Faulty.
9 Inspect Fuel Pump -- Low Fuel Pressure.
10 Inspect Solenoid Switch -- Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch.
11 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay -- Faulty Fuel Pump Relay.
12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator -- Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
13 Inspect Ignition Switch -- Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
14 Inspect Starter Drive -- Faulty Starter Drive.
15 Inspect Fuel Injector -- Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors.
16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat.
17 Inspect Engine Control Computer -- Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC.
18 Inspect Fuel Tank -- Fuel Tank Empty.
19 Inspect Carburetor -- Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke.
20 Inspect Distributor -- Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.

2.6L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Hood
   • Accessory drive belts
   • Accelerator cable
   • Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose
   • Air intake duct
   • Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line
   • Canister hose
   • Brake booster vacuum line
   • Engine wiring harness connectors at right wheel housing
   • Ground cable connector at the intake manifold, starter and firewall
   • Heated Oxygen (HO2S) sensor connector
   • Alternator wiring connectors
   • Oil pressure switch connector
   • Starter motor harness connectors
   • Ignition coil connector
   • Spark plug wires
   • Distributor
   • Exhaust front pipe
   • Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) gas temperature sensor connector
   • Air pump
   • EGR pipe
   • Heat shield
   • Exhaust manifold
   • Throttle Position (TP) switch connector
   • Cooling fan
   • Water pump pulley
   • Power steering pump
   • Intake manifold
   • Crankshaft pulley
   • Front cover
   • Timing belt. Refer to the Timing Belt unit repair section.
   • Valve cover
   • Rocker arms
   • Camshaft
   • Cylinder head

Cylinder head bolt loosening sequence - 2.6L engine

1. To install:
2. NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart.
3. NOTE: Lubricate the cylinder head bolts with clean engine oil for assembly.
4. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts in sequence as follows:
5. Step 1: 58 ft. lbs. (75 Nm)
6. Step 2: 72 ft. lbs. (98 Nm)

1. Install or connect the following:
2. Camshaft

• Rocker arms
• Valve cover
• Timing belt
• Front cover
• Crankshaft pulley. Tighten the bolt to 87 ft. lbs. (128 Nm).
• Intake manifold
• Power steering pump
• Water pump pulley
• Cooling fan
• TP switch connector
• Exhaust manifold
• Heat shield
• EGR pipe
• Air pump
• EGR gas temperature sensor connector
• Exhaust front pipe
• Distributor
• Spark plug wires
• Ignition coil connector
• Starter motor harness connectors
• Oil pressure switch connector
• Alternator wiring connectors
• HO2S sensor connector
• Ground cable connector at the intake manifold, starter and firewall
• Engine wiring harness connectors at right wheel housing
• Brake booster vacuum line
• Canister hose
• Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line
• Air intake duct
• PCV valve and hose
• Accelerator cable
• Accessory drive belts
• Hood
• Negative battery cable

1. Fill the cooling system.
2. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Lotta things - first things to check are tune-up items: spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter,
rebreather filter, oil filter, fuel filter, in-tank fuel strainer, ignition control module/distributor cap/rotor,
PCV valve

Most probable cause: lack of spark from the ignition system
2nd most probable cause: engine starved for fuel due to fuel system problem: fuel filter, fuel pump,
in-tank fuel pump or clogged in-tank fuel strainer.

Check cables must be tight at battery & starter. You must have 12 volts coming out of battery to starter.
Pull your dip stick is it over filled or milky looking. If so you very likely have water in engine.
Can you turn the fly wheel or is the engine locked up?
Drain the oil replace filter remove spark plugs turn engine backward to unlock engine. Drain fuel and replace fuel filter. Remove air filter has it gotten wet? Now crank it over with Air filter & spark plugs out. Now put in new air filter spark plugs dry wires & coils. And start the car, If car starts don't drive drain transmission change filter. If it did not start you may have done damage to computer or wiring.
But you got to see if engine is locked up if 12 volts is to starter & that no water is in oil or fuel.

Check the fuel/air sensor and air filter. When you first start the car only press the accelerator pedal once. If while turning the ignition switch you here a grinding noise that would be your starter going out. The smell of fuel signals that your car is either flooded from pressing pedal or fuel mixture is incorrect. Hope this helps.

I have a 2000 Espace and for years it has suffered from a non-start problem. It can be fine for ages and then, suddenly, there's nothing when you turn the ignition, not even a click. All instruments light up. It's not the battery. Does this sound familiar?

In my case, time and time again it has been what they call the 'firewire' connection on to the starter - the connection becomes corroded over time and fails to pass sufficient voltage.

If the terminal becomes too badly burned, where the voltage has arced because of a poor connection, apparently the only solution is to fit a new starter motor. But so far, in my case, it's just needed a clean of the connector and terminal.

By the way, holding the ignition key in the ON position for some time (30 seconds or more) can sometimes cause it to fire up.