R & R motor and where do the vacum lines - Cars & Trucks

Sounds like u may of forgot a vacume line a good way to find a vacume leak is to start car take a can of carb cleaner and spray it around intake and vacume lines if there's a leak motor will race as long as u keep spraing

This is a tough one could be mass air flow sensor ,oxyegen sensors,a fuel filter. a vacum leak, a pcv valve if i missed anything just google po 171 &174 look for fix ya this issue has been addressed many times first check the vacum lines includeing the line on the pcv valve for cracks or splits in the lines .I would do the fuel filter if it hasnt been changed in the last couple of years , if still a problem the MAF sensor if your happy with my advise please leave me with great feedback

They probably had your air filter out, 1st check the intake tube & vacume lines on the air cleaner box & intake tube. Make sure the clamps are tight & all vacume lines are on

There is a blend door that regulates where the air will come out of depending on where you set it on . Sometimes this blend door is operated on vacume from under the hood in the engine compartment if this vacume line breaks or is broken then you will have the problem you just described.Check for a broken vacume line. If the blend door is electrically operated check to see that you have voltage to the blend door motor if you have voltage then chances are the motor is bad and needs to be replaced also check the gears to the blend door most are plastic and some tend to strip. The blend door is located inside under the dash it may have a vacume line connected to it or a electrically operated motor but it should be located on the air duct some where you just have to look and know what your looking for. If you do locate it you can always move it manually with your hand to know that this is where the problem is at good luck and hope I helped you.

there is a motor located on the transfer case check to make sure this is working

there should be two tags either on the core support under the hood right around the radiator cap one will be the emmisions standards which will have the smog component locations and vacum lines diagramed and the other usually has the belt installation diagram one or both of these will say what size the motor is usually in really small print depending on the maker.
almost all automatic transmission shift by the use of vacum. if you have a broken ,loose ,or disconnected vacum line that is bleeding off vacum when it shouldnt be. then when you ingauge the vacum cylider on the transmission and have the brake pedal depressed the vacum is being depleted to the point that proper air fuel ratios are not being attained and the car dies. vacum is a very necassary part of the volumetric efficency of your motor and is required in order for the motor to run. check the vacum lines for splitting cracking and being disconnected. exspecially around the regular service points oil filler cap trans dip stick ect. this is where you'll usually find one to be damaged or dislodged.

have you checked your tps on throttle body? As for vacume leaks start the engine and spray starting fluid on all lines also spray where intake mates to the heads if the motor revs up you found a leak

Any time your dealing with a 4x4 system the best start is at you front axle. Its primarily a vacuum leak so check to see if the 2 vac lines are hooked up (its good to check the electric connections.). When your 4 wheel drive is engaged and the motors running you should have vacuum at one or both of thee lines depending on if your in 4 hi or low .
If no vacuum at axle check the Vacum switchs(the plug with 4 vac lines) on top of the transfer case it will have 2 feed lines(grey & green) they conect in to the into the vacum harness on back of motor (passanger side). A vacum schematic is normally located on the raditor core support (right under the hood next to hood release)
Hope this helps

HI, Ive just put a 2.6 4ze1 injected motor in a 95 rodeo in oz, the supply fuel pipe connects to the one sticking out at the front of the efi manifold next to the battery & air con hose! Make sure you have fuel in the tank, also you might have to prime the air out of the line by putting a rag around the hose & turning it over with your finger over it. Lightly releasing each time to let air escape until fuel comes out & being extremely careful for fire hazzard & to yourself!!! Then fit to manifold, the other pipe heading down under the manifold must be a vacum or tank breather hose? I hope this helps you GARYB in australia!!!

There is a vacum powered actuator on the front differential housing on the passenger side. It gets it's vacum from two valves mounted on the firewall just behind the battery(to left). The white line feeds manifold vacum to the valves. Check for vacum at white line with engine running. If no vacum there is a break in line from manifold. If vacum check the pink and blue lines by applying vacum to each one. The vacum should hold. If not check lines from valves to vacum actuator. Most likely it will be the actuator. If both lines hold vacum check valves. Remove electrical connectors from both valves. Connect a wire from one of the terminals of the valve to ground. Touch a wire from the battery + to the other terminal of the valve. Listen for a clicking sound. If no sound valve is bad. Replace valves(s). If this doesn't lead you to the trouble it's probably a mechanical problem inside the differential. However most likely there would other noises.