My wife has a 2008 Mitsubishi with a rockford fostgate radio/CD/MP3 player.
The radio has worked intermitently from the time we purchased it new.
Sometimes it will take anywhere from 10 to 30 minutes before the radio will come on.The CD player will not work until the radio comes on.
The Dealer has had the vehicle four times diagnosing loose wire to faulty amplifier.
On this last trip ( number 4 , I believe ) they replaced the radio only for it to go out on my wifes trip home.
She was told the radio has a safety feature built in so when a stations signal is being lost the radio shuts down. He somehow half convinced her this could be the cause.
I'm really glad and he's lucky he didn't try to sell me this bill of goods.
Having a radio that works only part time is not a life threatening issue but to come up an explanation that lame is insulting.
The only other factor with the radio is that we have subcription to Sirius.
Please help before I deal with the dummy that thinks I we're just stupid country bumkins.
Thanks,
Bob
Ok, speaking from personal experience with the sirus in my wife's passat, they have put in 2 radios, and they both do exactly the same thing. It goes off under bridges when it rains etc. the link keeps going in and out, I am going to try for a 3d radio, but it seems that certain radios are just junk, not that this helps, but I thought you should know, peace,Gym
Reading al the guys comments and so I recomend to lay wire directly from your car batt ground and + just to make sure the radio is ok, I also thing that your should install a permanant wire to solve your problem. It can be a bad conection asswell check ignitian wait till radio/cd gos dead mesure to see if any power on both sides of your radios Fuse in fuse panel.
Thankl you
Hi,
The most likely cause of failure here is the wiring as told by DAVE.We faced a particular issue in of our cars, where the radio use to go out, when we use to turn the car, either to the left or the right and it would then come on all of a sudden. The problem was with the wiring jack , thats below the stearing colum, that connects to the ignition switch. get the same checked. The only way, i can think of to solve your problem is , to remove the radio from the dasboard pocket , and wire it directly with the battery and run it and then check if stays connected all the tiime. Its a new car. so the factory is bound to repair the same.
Thanks
proton
Thanks
proton
It doesn't sound like the radio or the other bs they been telling ..it sound like they have the power wire hooked to a circuit breaker .that would explain the radio going off and then coming back on. when the breaker trips the radio will go off and after it cools and reset the radio will come back on.. maybe that's where they should start looking. try running power wire from different source... hope this helps ..
..
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
If I may add... a couple of ideas to further explore:
Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.
Any product can be restored to the last good working level by the RESET option.remember, if you have changed some settings accidentally this would cause the system to work not properly .try to reset the unit as possible.you have said there is no problem with the supply or with the circuit in it.so it may be due to some settings error.so check it.the product manufacturer or the dealer have all times responsibility on the products he sell.so call him if the problem cannot be fixed with yourself
That sounds like a classic grounding problem. The manual for your stereo should include a description of what the wiring harness looks like, what's what on it. There's almost certainly a separate ground wire in the pack that goes elsewhere.
You may wish to consider splicing that wire and creating your own ground elsewhere. It may be most convenient, as convenient as working on modern cars are, to punch a tiny hole through the fire wall and then go to the ground at the fuse box. -That- said, you may risk introducing RF interference in the rest of the car if the radio flakes out. It's a good idea, in terms of fire, sound proofing and noise, to dab some high-temp silicone around where the wire enters the firewall.
You are right about the explanation they gave your wife, a radio will not shut off because the signal is weak or lost. You will just get no sound, or hear the superhetradyne effect (static).
If they really did replace the radio, you have a wiring problem that would be difficult at best to diagnose online. It is possible that they did not replace the radio, they just told you they did. If that is the case, you may have some broken solder connections in the radio that would need to be resoldered.
A little more information is needed to help figure this out. I have been repairing car audio equipment for over 18 years and have seen just about everything and this really sounds like a problem with the wiring harness or a broken wire that leads to the amp and is intermittent if the radio was really replaced. These type of problems will require a lot of work to narrow down which wire is at fault. It could even be the harness that plugs into the back of the radio. Just so you know, the power rating of a speaker will not overheat your radio, the impedance of the speakers can cause that, but not the power rating. If the impedance is too low it will draw more current out of the radio. Most car stereos are rated for 4 ohms, if you have 2 speakers on one channel that are both 4 ohms you have just created a 2 ohm load which will cause overheating and the radio shutting off. If you have added more speakers to the system than what was intended it could be causing the problem. It is always a good idea to have speakers that are higher rated in wattage than the rated output wattage of the amp. It will save you from blowing up the speakers with too much power going into them. Speakers will only play the amount of power that the amp is capable of putting out. If you understand "Ohms Law" it would clear that issue up for you. As your volume goes up the voltage level on the output also goes up. Your speaker is at a nearly fixed resistance so the only way for the power to go up is if the amplifier increases the voltage level (volume). If you have factory speakers that were made for your head unit and amp, you should have nothing to worry about with them unless one of the speakers is starting to go bad.
Please respond back with more information about your problem. Does the radio turn off, lights and all? Does the radio seem to be on but you hear no sound? Can you see the display lit up but no functions? Does this happen when you are just sitting still in the car, parked, or only when you are on the road?
If you would like more help from me please address your post to me ie: @tech48 or @Dave, or just address your post to whomever you would like to communicate with. It helps in knowing if you have seen our solutions for you and if you want more information from any particular expert here.
Thanks,
Dave.
If the anti-theft code it being tripped you would be required to enter a code to get the radio back on again. Since you never mention the need to enter a code, I assume that the anti-theft code is not activating.
This is a real problem you have here. As you said, no rhyme or reason to when it goes out. Since you are certain that the radio has been replaced with a new one, then you need to focus on the wiring.To do this better you will need a multimeter and need to check the wires for the proper voltages when the radio has stopped working. This will require the radio be pulled out partially but still plugged in to the harness. You said that it will go out on you when it is sitting still, so this is the way to check it. While parked, turn the radio on and check the voltages on the wires at the harness on the back of the radio while the radio is working. write down those voltages. Then after the radio quits working, check all those wires again to see which voltage has changed. If there is nothing wrong with the radio, at least one of those voltages on the wiring harness will have changed when it quits working. After you determain which wire is no longer supplying the proper voltage, you can then begin to trace back the problem. Until you figure this out it will be nothing but guess work with no helpful answers.
You also said that this radio has a CD changer connected to it. Try unplugging the CD changer from the head unit, it should have a black din cord that connects it together. If having this disconnected keeps the radio from ever cutting out then you may just need the CD changer fixed.
Dave
The CD changer communicates wit the head unit, so if there is a problem in it with bad or corrupted data being transmitted to the head unit it could be causing the unit to shut down. If the head unit was not changed already I would say that you have a microprocessor issue in the head unit or a problem with the crystal for that microprocessor. All things point to the head unit having a fault of smoe type, but is they replaced it and it still has the same problems, then it would indicate an external problem. The only exteranal parts are the CD changer and the wiring. But you did say that they have checked all the wiring. If this has all been done properly then that only leaves the CD changer or amplifier, if you have one in the vehicle. If yo do have an external amp in the car, the remote turn on from the radio is the most likely cause. The head unit supplies a 12 volt signal to the ampliifer to turn on the amp when the head unit is turned on. If the radio was replaced then the amplifier could be drawing to much current from the remote turn on lead out of the head unit causing the head unit to overheat and/or cause other component failure and shut down.
That is really all that is left to be checked by the dealer, if they can not figure it out you need to insist that they replace the entire sound system since it is under warranty. After all, they have not fixed your problem, so it would seem that the only reasonable thing to do would be to replace the entire system, wiring and all.
It would be appreciated if you would rate this solution. Thanks for using FixYa! and good luck with the dealership.
Dave
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Hi
Did you check to see if a fuse was blown?
make sure you check all your connections. chances are you have either a stray positive(power wire) or a stray ground wire.
hi
take it back to the installer, it is thier problem.Â
if you really want to do it yourself, it is most likley the junction connector for the dash behind the radio, most likley unplugged
DID YOU SEEN MY SOLUTION
http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Mitsu...
here is the wire diagram for your car this should fix your problem
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Low battery?
Loose or corroded battery cable?
This is a very common problem see this website for details http://www.shareamemory.com/radio/paypal_donation.htm
ake the radio out and raise the resistors in the power supply to keep them cool
Alright.
Do all these things if your so inclined.
Check the Remote Wire that goes from the AMP to the forn of the car and connects to a wire thats HOT while the car is on. Also make sure that the Power Wire that runs to the battery has a fusable link with a Fuse thats at the appropriate Amperage, usually 10 or 13 Amp fuse.
Check the wiring Harness thats on back of the radio/CD player and be sure the connected wires are soders or crimped together well and not just twisted together.
Now, what kind of speakers are in the car, is the AMP for them? or a Sub woofer. The CD player probably Maxes out at 50w and if the speakers are higher wattage, and theres no AMP, then they can draw more power than the stereo can handle and its overheating and shutting off or tripping the fuse adn not comming on.
My fisrt card did this, i would be driving, jamming out, then suddenly it would sound to be skipping and then shut off completely and it turned out it was overheating trying to power my new speakers. I had to get an AMP for the speakers and one for the SUB.
Alot of Car Audio places will help you ouyt for around 50 to $100 dollars. Go to a custom sound car audio installer and tell them the issue and ask them how much to check the wiring and to give you an honest opinion on what the issue is.
they may try to sell you a new CD player though so do this as a lst resort.
Car dealer ships dont know much about installing anything besides the factory equipment.
Thera lot of diagrams online as well, try looking some over and checking you connections.
Let me know how it goes, take pictures of your AMP and Radio wiring and where is goes to and post them and maybe we can get you jamming out in no time. Also get the specs on the Radios output per speaker, the AMPs and what speakers you have installed.
If you can.
Someone should check the Relays, there may be a bad one going off
Well, all i can think of if its not the player itself, is that it has a bad Relay, Since your not doing the work yourself, i would ask the dealer if they have tried replacing the relay and the fuses.
Relays usually make a clicking sound when they go bad and theres power supplid to them. Also, there may be a grounding issue.
Sounds like a lemmon if its having electrical issues and you have gon e to them three times or more.
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I suppose u wil have to check the jack in the back of the stereo,it may not be seated all the way.hope this helps.otherwise you may have an internal problem with the unit itself.
So ....no power?..no lights or other visible evidence that the head unit has electricity to it when the radio/cd/mp3 player (head unit) is not working?
hello, remember me and your first question/clarification request?....does it have no power to it when not working....we really need to do this linear..A-Z...back to basics...determine if it is internal/external..power or short or grounding issue...electricity is fun for it always follows the rules..assuming no one has lied to you.(except the joker who tried to blame no station shut down circuitry)...then the supply of power...or a short of that wiring...or a poor / intermittent/bad ground must be the cause....an hour at a good electrical/electronics diagnostic ASE certified automotive shop (not that dealer) should discover the gremlin and repair or advise
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Not to offend you, but this is a wiring issue, u will need to pull the radio and check the connections, also check all the fuse connections, this is in the harness not the radio, the dealer is full of BS on what they told your wife, I worked in new car dealers for 30 years and never heard such a line of cra... well u know. when the radio isn't working u need to do a pin by pin test of the connector to the radio and wiggle and pull while you do it, it could also be another connector in the harness, I don't have a complete wiring diagram, but it is in the harness for sure.
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Did not resolve issue
The last recommended solution in checking that the jack on the back of radio is properly seated does not fix the problem.
The unit has been replaced and the problem still exist.
Is there any way that the anti theft code is being tripped and reset by faulty wiring?
Thanks for the advice but the radio/CD player came with the car when purchased new.
This is the radio/cd player that came with the car when purchased new. It has been replaced with a new unit exactly the same as the original.
No amps, sub woofers or speakers have been added.
The battery is in good condition, no corosion and is fully charged.
@ Dave,
Thanks for delving into my problem.
The radio turns off lights and all anad does not appear to be on. The strange thing is it will come back on usually in 10 to 45 minutes.
The unit may or may not work on intital start as well as on the road. There really doesn't seem to be any ryhme or reason as to when the problem will occur.
I'm fairly certain the unit has been replaced since I have been on the Dealership for this and other items associated with my 2007 Endeavor that I also puchase new from them.
I believe this is unrelated but the rockford fostgat in the Endeavor was replaced because it did not receive AM signal.
Ive been told the harness and all wiring to the radio have been checked but as you say, who knows?
Thanks, Bob
Thanks but it is not a reset problem.
I'm not trying to resolve this issue myself but am trying to provide my Dealer with possible solutions since they seem to be at a blockade. They should be paying me and you for doing their job.
This is a warantee issue and at this time I'm not inclined to pay an independent audio specialist.
@Dave offered a lot of advice and detailed info on electronics.
I plan on taking all of your proposed solutions that have not been tried to this point and hand them over to the Mitsubishi dealer.
Thanks
I need more possible solutions to hand over to the not so smart techs at my Mitsu dealership.
Thanks
I appreciate all the recomendations which intend to present to the dealer in hopes they can read and follow instructions.
If anyone has additional proposals I would appreciate hearing from you.
I need as much ammo as I can gather before taking my car to an independent and submitting the bill to my dealer.
Thanks to all,
Bob
Thanks for the tip.
Need more help.
Thanks for the comments, but I still would like others feedback.
I believe it's most likely the techs don't possess the knowledge to fix the problem thats why I am doing research (their job).
Thanks
Thanks for the diagram, I will pass it on.
Does anyone have additional thoughts?
Thanks,
I appreciate everyones suggestions and would like to have more ammo before I make a call and visit to the dealer today.
Thanks
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