This has happened to my 2001 4 wheel suzuki vitara now.
the first time i did not notice any warning, i was just pulling out of a parking space and then heard a loud noise which to me sounded like the transmission falling out. however when i popped the hood everything seemed in check and so i got back in the car and tried driving again. I could feel the car jumping gears when i shifted (automatic transmission) but it just wouldn't go. I fiddled with the 4 wheel a bit and then it went no prob.
The second time i heard what sounded almost like a rusty hinge or something hanging and swinging around so of course i stepped on the break and the same loud thunk and the car wouldn't move. this time fiddling with the four wheel didn't do anyting. so we tried putting it in neutral to push it out of the way but even with three guys pushing it wouldn't go anywhere. so i kept turning the car on and off and switching gears trying to move. eventually we were able to push it in neutral so i let it sit for a bit once we got out of the way. when i tried driving again it went no problem again.
so i haven't driven the car in about a week afraid it would go again. but i had to take it out last night and after being stuck at a drive through window with my foot on the brake for about 5-10 minutes i heard the same squeaky noise as i was pulling away. luckily i was next to a parking lot so i pulled into a space but this time no tunk. but the wheels were stuck again. this time i left the car in park and went to the back and started rocking the car to see if i could hear anything. when i got it rocking i heard the same squeak and then a little "toink" kind of noise when i stopped rocking liek a spring popping or something. but when i got on the back bumper and jumped up and down there was no noise, it was only there when i was rocking the car in a pushing motion.
i eventually got it to go again and i was pulling into my parking space at home i started to hear the squeak again but no thunk when i parked. i haven't tried it since.
Have you had the breaks checked out? To rule out a stuck brake caliper or rear drum locking up I would have these checked out as well. I noticed the common things here is that this problem only happends when you are hitting the brakes.....if those check out check out ok then I would start having your drive axles checked then move on to your getting your transmission checked out. Good luck to you and I hope this gives you a starting point and some direction. BTW some shops will do a free brake inspection, and also some shops will do free inspections or they will do it for a small fee depeding on where you go.
Good Luck and shoot me a message if you need some more ideas. Thanks for using FixYa!
Sincerely,
JC
If you heard a continuous humming or whiring noise before the wheel locked up that indicates that the wheel bearings have seized and the wheel is now locked on.
If you heard a grinding noise like metal on metal then the brake pad has worn down that much that the brake disk ans pad has fused together, either way you need a mechanic to seperate them as its a very hard job to get them appart.
have a quick look at the brake fluid pipes also because an air lock can cause the brake pad to lock against the drum or disk
kind regards
This sounds like a stuck brake drum! check and lube back brake drums!
I know what it is but this is for which ever tires lock up this is a busted axle and needs to be replaced your gears are shattering
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The only suggestion i have would be get the rear wheels off the ground and see if you can turn them by hand if one has a grinding or squeaking sound then you need to replace the wheel bearing. i think one of the bearings inside it have broken or the race is busted you will just have to look into it
I am thinking that you have something seized in the brakes. Normally, if the issue is at the rear, it could be something as simple as a stuck park brake pivot or cable. What you need to do before you go to a mechanic is a little observation...Look under the back of the car, at both rear wheels. See if you can see a cable running to each of the round & flat metal things behind the wheels, these are the "backing plates", if you have drum brakes....
Is the cable real slack, or is it tight? If it is slack, the park brake pivot is seized. If it is real tight, the cable may be seized in the "applied" position. Go out and take a look, Please advise me what you see, then, I can help you further.
Thanks for choosing FixYa to assist you with your problem.
Hi
Hi, I have an 02 Bravada and have had the same problem. Sounds like the same problem I had. It was a swithch that engages and disengages the 4 wheel drive. Your switch is bad and is locked in 4 wheel drive. It needs to be replaced
The ignition key and lock cylinder operate a gear and lever type of mechanism within the steering column. If the gear jumps out by one tooth, or has been assembled incorrectly, it will cause the steering wheel to remain locked and the push rod that activates the ignition switch (located near the bottom of the column) will not function correctly. This can be very tricky to solve, and should be serviced by an experienced technician.
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You will need to remove the tires and use work bolts to pull the drums out. You can find the bolts in any hardware store. The rest is just like any other brakes. Rememer, if you disconect any brake lines, you will need to bleed the system. Two people are required to do this. One will pump the brakes and keep pressure on it and the second will undo the little nipple or bolt and release air. repeat until no air or bubbles escape.
This sounds like a problem with the transfer case for the 4 wheel drive, it may have suffered an internal failure, check the fluid level, also look at the fluid to see if it looks like it has metal flakes in it, it will look silvery.
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i just recently had the oil and filters changed
i'm not 100% if they did the clutch or not but i would assume so.
i've been researching a bit and it seems other people have had the same problem and it's related to the breaks. some say break pads sticking and others say cables.....
i just want a good idea so when i take it in to get fixed i can tell the mechanic exactly (or as close to) what the issue is so they don't charge me an arm and a leg for diagnosing the problem.
thanks
i usually don't have my car in 4-wheel though
would this make a difference?
thanks
i should mention too that even when the car is put into neutral the wheels remain locked up so the car can't even be pushed until whatever it is loosens or whatever so the wheels can turn again
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