20 Most Recent 2002 Kia Optima Questions & Answers

they are asking about the relay not the location of fuel pump I cant find it either. I see a 20 fuel pump fuse but no relay

If there is something arcing in the passenger side of the engine compartment that you can hear while driving, the arcing would leave indisputable evidence, leaving few in any doubt about what caused it. Do you mean you hear something that sounds like electricity arcing? If it really is electricity arcing, other things happening would be inevitable - the car has a 12 volt system. That isn't enough voltage for spontaneous arcing and a live part must physically touch a ground part and there must be enough current available to sustain the arcing and that severely limits the possibilities as most circuits are fused and the briefest short circuit will destroy even the largest fuse with obvious consequences. While the arcing must consume a large amount of current, because the battery and alternator combined can only supply a finite amount this necessarily will result in a significant system volt drop that must result in symptoms such as the dimming of lights, the slowing of the heater blower and even engine driveability issues. Having said all that, I am wondering if perhaps the power steering pump was replaced because the bearings became noisy? If this is so it would be wise to check the engine ground...

the coils at the plugs are the only ones, no other ignition coil. have you checked the system for trouble codes? if not get a cheap code reader and read the codes, then post them back here.

what i heard that it is like removing it from under the car which is not possible without lifting the 4 wheels. Also you may want to first do this before removing the alternator, even the multimeter shows the alternator failed test. Simply go underneath the car to check for the wire that comes out from the alternator and goes to the battery to charge it up. This particular wire that is coming out from the alternator to charge up the battery is completely fused or burnt.

Have the computer scanned . I think u may find one of the emissions codes in there, make sure your air filter is sealed properly, ck for vacuum leaks. Before u start looking at electronics, May be MAF sensor, bad plugs ,cam sensor,coil pack, coolant sensor etc. Start w the basics,

All instruments are controlled by a computer/ If you have only lost speedo, more than likely you have a bad speed sensor located in the top of the transmission. Yes, you can change yourself by unscrewing it from trans. It will have 3 wires going to it and 1 wire is brown.

Sounds like something is jamming. If you are capable, take the door skin off and pull the lock rod off and see if the key turns, then you know the key cylinder is fine and the lock mechanism is seizing, if not then the cylinder is seizing

indicates a failed timing belt do a physical check that the rockers are moving when cranking the engine over

Black smoke usually means burning too much gas. The problem is the IAC idle air control. I would also replace the TPS

Check fuel pressure, as a weak or failing pump could let the fuel pressure get too low. Since it doesn't set a code, the problem is something not monitored by the sensors or the computer. If fuel pressure is good, it could be a bad pcm-the engine computer.

I would replace all of the coil packs. If one goes bad the others are soon to follow. Also one weak one can kill the others. You may want to consider using non-OEM if the dealer wants $100 or more per coil. You can find non-OEM for maybe $30.

Have you checked your serpentine belt tensioner? You say that the belt seems 'taut', but that may not be as tight as it needs to be. Try dribbling some water from a hose over the belt while the engine is idling with a load on the alternator (lights on, a/c blower on high, etc), and see if the belt is slipping on the alternator. Watch out - be careful not to have your face in line with the belt, or you'll get soaked! If the belt is slipping when wet, you may want to consider replacing your tensioner.

Put it on the Ohms reading, lowest setting. Touch the leads from the negative side of the battery to the engine and also the body.. Should have less than 5 ohms. To test the positive side you have to go to the starter and battery. To test the sensors your meter has to be able to read hertz. Put the leads to the positive and signal return. Tap the end of the sensor with a piece of metal(screwdriver, wrench) rapidly. It it reads any numbers, it is good.

the worry is that the battery post is getting hot that indicates a dead short ,probably at the starter motor terminal the engine is classified as a interference engine so there will be bent valves from the broken belt with the engine not turning over and you didn't mention any head work it is very possible that a valve is bent and jamming on the piston stopping it moving and that is overloading the starter and heating up the battery post Looks like it is back to square one and do it again

It doesn't use an inertia switch. That is Ford and Mazda.

I think this car has a special relay (fuel pump emergency shut off) under the hood that shuts off the fuel pump after a crash. Call the dealer and ask for a new one, it is a one time use and must be replaced.

Sensor is on the transmission usually on top but toward the front. Usually held in with a 10mm socket.