20 Most Recent 2006 Saturn Vue - Page 5 Questions & Answers

How do you check an orifice? Oh the high pressure side it will be warm to hot to the touch. The cold low pressure side will be much colder 45-50 degrees. if there is little difference and the charge is good the orifice could be plugged.

This does sound like a EVAP code was generated.

The fuel & vapor recovery is a sealed/closed system and the ECM runs a rather irregular test on the EVAP components based on a number of different factors. You may or may not have a leak, or just a faulty or loose gas cap. In the northern states, corrosion is a possible factor at hose & tube connections. GM EVAP valves do have a higher failure rate.

The cost is due to the need for a "smoke test"(pressure misting the system with a mineral oil based visible vapor) and likely pulling the tank &/or pump module to sleuth out the problem.

If this is the only code in the ECM, first try disconnecting the battery for 1/2 hour after filling the tank, inspecting & seating the gas cap. Keep the tank above 1/2 full. If the light stays off for 700-1000 miles or more, there may be a minuscule leak at a seal or clamp (in the absence of rust) that should not be a concern.

If this is the case, a week before your state inspection(and before several driving cycles) do the battery disconnect routine again to get the car to pass.

Is that a motorcycle?

Have an A/C shop to discharge the refrigerant from the system before starting to remove the compressor. Remove the serpentine belt Remove the a/c hoses from the rear fo the compressor (usually one bolt). The compress is held onto the engine by 3 or 4 bolts. Remove these bolts. Remove the compressor. Be sure to put the recommended amount of PAG oil into the new compressor before installing it on the vehilce. Have the a/c system evacuated, checked for leaks and recharged by a professional a/c technician.

the cheapest repair here is to have a reconditioned unit fitted to the vehicle . To do it yourself will only repair 1/2 the joint and it will fail early

on the 2.4 and 3.0 liter engines it is on the front side of the engine where the engine and transmission bolt together.

What are you talking about? An actual river? With water trickling down a mountain (if that's what you're after).

two bolts hold the front of the seat down and five bolt hold the rear. the 2 front bolt require a E10 socket.

3.5L Firing order: 1-4-2-5-3-6. 2.2L and 2.4L Engines Firing order: 1-3-4-2

It lets the computer know the position of the crankshaft and piston so that it can inject fuel at the proper time.

P1599 - means that the computer detected that the engine stalled when the ignition had not been turned off. Does your vehicle have a stalling problem? P2138 - is the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 1-2 correlation. The accelerator pedal has a sensor and the throttle actuator has the one as well. the computer expect thats both sensor will read the same as the accelerator pedal is operated. If one sensor read differently from the other the computer will set this code. Long story short, you'll have to have shop to check this code out for you since a scan tool will be needed in the diagnosis of this code.

Take it to a body shop and have them to open it. without special tools and skills you'll have to remove the door panel to fix it. however removing the door panel requires that you open the door. a shop can likely do this without damaging the door panel. Once the door is opened, then you can remove the panel and repair the problem. likely a broken or disconnect acutator level for the door handles.

Have the waste gate check by a shop to see if it is sticking open.. Check for broken or missing vanes on turbine. Did you have the boost checked by a technician with a gauge or are you going by the boost gauge in the car (the car's gauge could be faluty) use the technicians gauge to verify.

for the 2.2 liter engine:

1. Gap the spark plugs to 0.045 inch (1.1mm).

for the 2.4 liter engine:

1. Ensure the spark plugs are gapped to specification: 0.042 in. (1.06mm).

for the 3.5 liter engine: Adjust spark plug gap to 0.043 inch (1.1mm).

Transaxle Removal & Installation

Fig. Disconnect the shift control cable (3) from the range select lever (4)

Remove the upper transaxle to engine bolts (1, 3, 5, 6) and stud (2). Fig. Remove the upper transaxle to engine bolts (1, 3, 5, 6) and stud (2)

Safely support the engine.

Remove the transaxle mount to transaxle bolts. Fig. Remove the transaxle mount to transaxle bolts

Remove the transaxle mount to frame rail bolts.

Remove the mount from the engine. Fig. Remove the transaxle mount to frame rail bolts

Remove the left transaxle mount

Raise and safely support the vehicle.

Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies.

Remove the splash shield.

Remove the bolts (2, 3) from the transaxle brace.

Remove the transaxle brace (1). Fig. Remove the bolts (2, 3) from the transaxle brace

Remove the starter.

Mark the relationship of the flywheel to the torque converter for reassembly.

Use the J 43653, Flywheel Holding Tool, to prevent the crankshaft from rotating.

Remove the torque converter to flywheel bolts.

Remove the nut holding the transaxle cooler line retainer to the transaxle.

Disconnect the transaxle cooler lines from the transaxle.

Disconnect the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) wiring harness from the sensor.

Remove the steering gear intermediate shaft pinch bolt.

Disconnect the tie rods from the steering knuckle.

Disconnect the stabilizer shaft links from the stabilizer shaft.

Disconnect the ball joints from the steering knuckles.

Remove the frame.

Disconnect the wheel drive shafts from the transaxle.

Support the transaxle with a suitable jack.

Remove the lower transaxle to engine bolts (5, 6, 7, 8). Fig. Remove the lower transaxle to engine bolts (5, 6, 7, 8)

Separate the engine and the transaxle.

Remove the transaxle from the vehicle.

Flush the transaxle cooler and the lines with J 35944-A, Transaxle Oil Cooler Flusher.

Remove the following only if replacing the transaxle.

1. Remove the shift cable bracket bolt (3), nut (1), and bracket (2).
2. Remove the PNP switch.
3. Remove the transaxle mounts. Fig. Remove the shift cable bracket bolt (3), nut (1), and bracket (2).

To install:

1. Install the following if previously removed
   1. Install the shift cable bracket (2), bolt (3), and nut (1).
   2. Tighten the bolt (3) and nut (1) to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
2. Install the PNP switch.
3. Install the transaxle mounts.
4. Position the transaxle in the vehicle.
5. Install the lower transaxle to engine bolts. Tighten the bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
6. Install the wheel drive shafts to the transaxle.
7. Install the frame.
8. Lubricate the transaxle cooler pipes before inserting into seals.
9. Connect the transaxle cooler pipes to the transaxle.
10. Install the transaxle cooler pipes retainer nut. Tighten the nut to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
11. Use the J 43653, Flywheel Holding Tool, to prevent the crankshaft from rotating.
12. Install the torque converter to flywheel bolts. Tighten the torque converter bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
13. Install the starter.
14. Install the frame.
15. Install the steering gear intermediate shaft pinch bolt.
16. Connect the ball joints to the steering knuckles.
17. Connect the stabilizer shaft links to the stabilizer shaft.
18. Connect the tie rods to the steering knuckle.
19. Connect the wiring harness to the VSS.
20. Install the transaxle brace.
21. Install the transaxle brace bolts. Tighten the bolts to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
22. Install the front splash shields.
23. Install the front wheel and tire assemblies.
24. Lower the vehicle.
25. Install the left transaxle mount.
26. Install the upper transaxle to engine bolts and stud. Tighten all of the bolts and stud to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
27. Untie the radiator, air conditioning condenser, and fan module assembly.
28. Remove the engine support fixture.
29. Connect the transaxle wiring harness to the main transaxle electrical connector, and the PNP switch.
30. Install the shift control cable to the shift control cable bracket. Ensure the cable retaining clip is fully seated.
31. Connect the shift control cable to the range select lever.
32. Connect the air duct hose to the intake plenum.
33. Install the battery tray.
34. Inspect the transaxle fluid level. NOTE It is recommended that Transmission Adaptive Pressure (TAP) information be reset. Resetting the TAP values using a scan tool will erase all learned values in all cells. As a result, the ECM, PCM or TCM will need to relearn TAP values. Transaxle performance may be affected as new TAP values are learned.
35. Reset the TAP values

Too many to say just one but I can gif you a few things to look at. First would be the tie rods and ball joints. Then there is the end link pin. Calipers will make a rattle noise as well. My bet here is the ball joints though.

Yes you can do this; the bearings are sealed unit hubs; very easy the cost is only about $70 each at an auto parts store. once you look at them you'll know how to do this.

check the transmision

Most likely the battery isn't charging properly. If you haven't ever replaced the battery it's probably about 8 or so years old. In battery years that's means it's time to have a wake for the old one and get a replacement. You can go to one of the auto parts store (Autozone, O'Reilly Auto Parts, Advance Auto Parts, NAPA etc.) and they can check the charging system for you for free. They will also be able to tell you if the battery really is bad or the problem lies somewhere else like the alternator, connections, a short or something along those lines. This could also save you some coins since you won't be spending money on something you are guessing about. Good luck.

Simply it's a valve in a refrigeration system that controls or meters how much coolant is allowed into the evaporator. A thermal expansion valve (often abbreviated as TEV, TXV, or TX valve) is a component in refrigeration and air conditioning systems that controls the amount of refrigerant flow into the evaporator thereby controlling the superheating at the outlet of the evaporator. Thermal expansion valves are often referred to generically as "metering devices". A thermal expansion valve is a key element to a heat pump; the cycle that makes air conditioning, or air cooling, possible. A basic refrigeration cycle consists of four major elements, a compressor, a condenser, a metering device and an evaporator. As a refrigerant passes through a circuit containing these four elements, air conditioning occurs. The cycle starts when refrigerant enters the compressor in a low pressure, low temperature, gaseous form. The refrigerant is compressed by the compressor to a high pressure-and-temperature gaseous state. The high pressure-and-temperature gas then enters the condenser. The condenser precipitates the high pressure-and-temperature gas to a high pressure liquid by transferring heat to a lower temperature medium, usually ambient air. The high pressure liquid then enters the expansion valve where the TX valve allows a portion of the refrigerant to enter the evaporator. In order for the higher temperature fluid to cool, the flow must be limited into the evaporator to keep the pressure low and allow expansion back into the gas phase. The TXV has sensing bulbs connected to the suction line of the refrigerant piping. The sensing bulbs give temperature readings to the TXV to adjust flow of refrigerant.[2] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_expansion_valve